Love these cases, I've printed 4 of them so far for my Meshtastic nodes. But I printed the vertical stand because I thought it would be cool to have these handing on the wall in my shop. Is it me, or is it phsyically impossible to insert the actual case into this stand? The horizontal stand fits perfectly and I may just end up using that instead, but I thought it was kind of silly that the vertical stand doesn't appear to be functional:
I wanted to share my fixes but no remixes are allowed? Pfff 👎
The power button is about 1mm too thick for a perfect fit. So the plate does not really cover it. Maybe they changed the button dimensions? Better check before printing. I don't see a good fix but to modify and re-print.
The rims around the buttons are a bit useless. Best to cut them off before slicing and then you only need some support for the 4 corners. Also means it would be good to cut the buttons a little shorter.
Overall a nice design but requiring support could have been avoided.
what would the best orientation be to print these? on a prusa mk4
@Hellweaver666 has anyone ever considered printing the middle core in TPU to make it a bit grippy?
Case is great but came across a problem, printed the vertical stand and it is way too small to fit the case in? Thanks for sharing your design, much appreciated.
I’m new to Meshtastic and love this design. What thickness is the acrylic window?
@DougMcCallum_1954253 I would normally just support the model creator and buy it from his Etsy store ( https://www.etsy.com/shop/QuantumShadow3D) for $5 or 3 for $8 plus $6 shipping, but I'm making 15+ of these for friends and have access to a laser cutter.
For anyone else seeking this insight, the case model I'm looking at has a recessed area 1.36mm deep which makes me think the intended acrylic may be 0.050" (1/20) inch thick which Home Depot sells for ~$9 ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/11-in-x-14-in-x-0-050-1-20-in-Clear-Non-Glare-Acrylic-Sheet-1S11143A/202771350).
Of course you can also print a transparent window using SLA or other materials but I understand it may require significant polishing with high grit sand paper, a clear coat, or solvent smoothing. I'll include some guidelines I found below even though I doubt this will be the best solution for most makers:
- Print slower (25% – 30% of your normal print speed)
- Print thicker layers by using a larger nozzle
- Print at 70% – 90% of the nozzle diameter to obtain a structure that refracts less light
- Use the highest nozzle temperature within the filament’s range (ensuring fusing of the plastic)
- Use a flow rate above 100% (in this case, 108%)Disable your fan or print cooling
If you didn't have the raised edges around the buttons, you could print it with the exterior side down, which would not require supports, (or minimal / easier to remove supports around the corners), which would be a much more efficient print, I think.
Could we get an update of the required files for this? They don't match up with what the files are anymore, and some like Button-PRG I am not sure which one it means. Thanks!
