X 2 + Length of Omar
I don't have my pedals raised, and it bothered me that an extra useless length was attached at the end of the pedals. A plasterboard screw (black) was used to fix the NLR frame to the end cap on both sides.
X 2 (or more) + Corrugated Pipe + Patience
X 6 (or more)
I used the Pipe Guide to help get the wires through the corrugated pipe, and for any diverted wires (i.e. exit for pipe cables, or USB for laptop) surround in a pair of these guides. It will ensure as the rig moves around, the pipe won't cut into your precious sim gear leads!
X 2 (Corner Reinforcement)
X 2 (Pipe Connector) + Length of Omar
This improved version of the stiffening brace no longer needs a vertical brace between the frame and the omar pipe, due to reinforcement.
A pipe connector can slot directly onto the reinforcement bar, and tightened by the supplied nut.
The corner reinforcement can be secured by a bold in the middle, and some additional 3d printable nuts in the 2 positions on the back.
Note: The dovetail mechanism does need a painted support, but you can get away without supports for the arch.
X 2 + Length of Omar
Updated 13/02/2025 - Fixed dovetail connector
These are printed in three parts (to make sure you get a good finish). I used red PETG HF.
This is used as a strengthening beam (between the two pipes perpendicular to the wheel mount pipe). It doesn't do much by itself, but coupled with a connector to the wheel base, and a reinforcement clamp - it improves the stability of the base. The fanatec dd+ weighs a ton, so the vibration reduction here was really noticeable.
Mentions - Clamp design & positioning on rig influenced by @DanErbert_1147465
The holder connects to the pedals from underneath, using the NLR base as an anchor (allowing it to move with the pedals)
This results in a sturdy holder for the PSU, ensuring that it stays in place when the rig is folded.
Updated 22/04/2025 - Added Stand Extensions
Due to working on the motorised pedal reach adjuster, I needed a bit more space underneath the stand and pedals.
This increases the height by about 20 mm, but basically follows the original NLR design, and can be used as a replacement.
NLR GT Lite Pro, is the best rig I've played with (and also the only one). However, after trying out a bunch of mods (most are amazing!), I decided to make my own collection of improvements.
Project goals:
This project will be updated as I go along, and where possible I'll include the materials I'm using (other than 3d prints) will be listed.
My rig is based around the following gear:
I aim to make my projects compatible with a variety of other setups where possible, but will primarily focus on what I have.
The metal frame parts used in this build came from an old IKEA Omar shelf.
I just had this lying around, but it should be easy enough to pick up just the legs from IKEA.
The NLR pipe diameter (sans bends) is 25 - 25.5mm (wildly inconsistent) whereas the Omar is a fixed 25.5mm. This achieves consistency between most clip-on parts.
Because we have consistency in the size, this pipe connector is a nice reusable part.
In cases where it needs to be reinforced, a bolt through the side, or some superglue in the ridges worked well for me. The pipe connector is always 30mm tall, with 25mm inserted pipe.
20mm O/D 17mm I/D corrugated hose was used as a wiring harness.
It's a pita to get the wires in, but the whole thing was way neater once it's done. Makes the rig much more portable and less of a trip hazard!
Everything is printed on the Bambulab P1S, using the following settings:
Any part-specific settings are annotated in the file.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.