YASR - Yet Another Server Rack - 10" modular design (WIP)

YASR is currently a work in progress. I will add more panels over time.

Important: Front panels follow the measurements specified in EIA-310/Eurocard. A rack unit (U) has a height of 1 ¾ inches or 44.45 mm and for a 10" rack 254 mm in width. Shrinkage of the FDM prints automatically allow for space between adjacent mounted components.

The mounting holes also follow the specifications and allow for a few mm adjustment horizontally and just a tiny little bit vertically.

Planned

• ✅ Lenovo ThinkCentre M7XX/M9XX
• Raspberry PI4/PI5 1U (with OLED/Single-Patchpanel/GPIO-Panel)
• Raspberry PI4/PI5 2U Cluster
• PiNAS/PiKVM
• ✅ Netgear GS308E 8-Port Switch
• Power Supply and/or a managed PDU
• Support for a mini UPS

Parts needed

• Rack rails from HMF (🔗 https://hmf.de/collections/10-zoll-zubehoer), also available on Amazon and other shops (you'll need to check on international availability yourself). The hole spacing for the side panels gives extreme ridgidity (and squareness).
• Default mounting screw set for racks (M6), atleast 50-60 pieces
• M3x4x4 heat inserts
• M3x6 BHCS screws

Printing

300 mm build volume highly recommended (everything fits perfectly here). I used my stock K1 Max with hardened nozzle (0.4).

Note: let the larger parts (3U side panels and lid) slowly cool down in your printer! Otherwise they might warp a little bit, but this depends on the filament used.

Filament

It's your choice. I used Green-TEC PRO CF filament from extrudr which provides a high thermal resilience (VICAT A 165°C/HDT-B 115°C) and as a compound with 10% CF a very high ridgidity. Printing at 240°C/70°C worked like a charm.

Processing

Use a heat insert press to get them straight. Don't push to far, otherwise you'll get a hole through the side panels (holes are exactly 4 mm in depth). 😉 Leave them sticking out a tiny little bit and use a chisel or something flat to force them in. Use a M3 tap if you got some filament inside the threads to clean them up by hand. You can also use the chisel (or a ruler) to keep the parts in shape after insertion.

For the bottom of the lid, you can use a file to smooth the edge areas. It will sit perfectly flush then (in case your PA value isn't tuned-in well).

Assembly

I didn't want any external screws on the side panels or the lid. So you should assemble those first and front/rear panels as second step.

Remixes

I'm looking forward to that, so I'll release Fusion 360 and/or STEP-files soon.