The gasket is designed for a 63.75 mm diameter hole, whose center is to be located using the provided template. When using the template, please make sure it sits flat and the arm is not bent, so the hole is properly located. I used a 2" hole saw to remove most of the material for the hole. I then used an utility knife to cut the final hole. I cut tabs all around the 2" hole using pliers, and I bent the tabs a bit to make it easier to cut with the utility knife. The plastic lid can be a bit brittle, so it is important to go very slow and gently with the hole saw. and also with the pliers. I used a deburring tool to make a nice edge. Silicone can be used to glue it to the lid if desired.
If the filament is to be actively heated using the PolyDryer adapter, all the parts exposed to the heat should be printed with sufficiently heat-resistant plastic (PLA should be avoided). PETG seems to be doing fine with the second heat level of the PolyDryer adapter. I am not sure if it would be a good idea to heat up the cereal box with the highest heat setting of the PolyDryer regardless.
The feet were designed so they don't require support when printing. There are provided inserts meant to be printed with TPU. The stands can be glued to the feet using superglue.
The author remixed this model.
This kit starts with the cereal box filament dryer, adds an adapter so it can be used to actively dry filament with the Polymaker PolyDryer base, using the existing rear round opening in the cereal box lid, plus a new hole in the front of the lid. A template is provided to locate the hole in the front of the lid, and a TPU gasket design is provided to seal the hole. This front desiccant bin design can be used to free up the existing lid hole. A pair of feet have also been designed to fit in the lid holes. They allow to stack the cereal box containers. With this kit, the original desiccant bin and its lid are no longer used.