Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Power Bow (Lightning Collection compatible)

Printer: Bambulab X1C
Filament: Overture Pla

• General settings
  • Wall loops: 2
  • Infill: 8%
  • Sparse infile pattern: Gyroid (I just like gyroid infill)
  • Support: Tree
    • Normal supports should work as well. Make sure that no supports are generated in the holes on the bottom of the wings if you're printing the LC compatible version
  • Brim Type: Outer brim only
    • Mostly to make sure the parts stick to the bed well. May be fine printing without it.
• Wings
  • Infill: 12%
  • This isn't really needed. I just like for my prints to have a little extra weight to them.
• Cover lifter
  • 0.1 layer height

Printing Instructions

Excluding the handle, you will need to duplicate and mirror every piece along the Y axis. You'll need:

• 1 handle
• 2 small pins
• 2 wings
• 2 wing tips (if printing the pre-sliced version)
• 2 wing pins (if printing the pre-sliced version)
• 2 claw nails
• 2 claw pins
• 2 lance covers
• 2 lance clips
• 2 dagger covers
• 2 dagger clips
• 2 coins
• Updated (end caps):
  • 4 top caps
  • 2 wide end caps
  • 2 skinny end caps

Build Instructions

Supplies for building the LC compatible version: 

• 5/16 inches threaded rod. Cut down to 14 inches
  • Technically this is optional. I added the space for added strength. It's there to provide extra insurance when the lance and daggers are attached.
• Brass inserts
  • 12 M3x6x5 brass inserts
  • 8 M3x8x5 brass inserts
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YYGRCBG 
• Screws
  • 12 M3x8 button head screws 
  • 8 M3x10 button head screws
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9765QW1 
• 16 5x3mm neodymium magnets
  • These are used to help keep the covers on
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GLWMN7N
• Fabric Tissu
  • This is to protect the paint and finish of the LC weapons. The clips were designed to account for this filling in the extra space.
  • I picked this up at Michaels craft store for $2, so I don't have a link
  • The measurements are 18 in x 21 in / 45.7 cm x 53.3 cm
• If making the wall hanger (either screw size should work, you'll just need 2 of them)
  • 1/4 in - 20 x 1-1/2 in
  • 1/4 in - 20 x 1 in
  • I don't know where I picked these up from, so I don't have a link

All links are non-affiliate

The wings come in 3 versions

• LC compatible with details
  • Has all details and the cutouts for the clips and covers
  • This will be the only version of the wings that will also include a pre-sliced version
• Non-compatible with details (no cutouts for covers and clips)
  • Has all details, but no cutouts
• Non-compatible with no details
  • Has no details or cutouts
  • This is available for those that want to do something custom

The wings can be secure and removable. A few layers of painters tape around the peg on the end of the handle can provide a secure fit and hold without the need for gluing. You can also orient the wings for left or right handed use. There are small pegs that are used for aligning the coins on the side of the handle. They don't need glue, and should press all the way in.  Just make sure the pterodactyl is facing toward the front of the bow on each side before gluing those down.

The claws can be put on the wrong side. The peg allows for a little forgiveness to get it as middle aligned as possible. It's shouldn't be too far one way over the other.  The peg for the wings was designed to be a tight fit, since they're designed for structure. It may require a little sanding to get them all the way pressed in. I've added a channel for squeeze out, but try not to load it up with a lot of glue.

As stated, the clips were designed for fabric tissu to be between the print and the LC weapon. When originally testing and prototyping I noticed that the black bands on the yellow daggers was being scrapped off so I added a bit of extra space for the fabric. The weapons will droop a little, that's expected. They'll have enough pressure to mostly stay put. It's all designed to be a tight fit, the clips will flex a little to allow everything to be put together. 

You'll need to cutout some fabric for the inner part of the clip and to protect against the main body. The plugs are for the fabric on the main body of the bow. Use a little super glue to stick down the fabric. For the sides that will be next to the clips, cut that as close to or short of the edge of the plug. When you want to connect the lance and daggers, you can just pop that in. 

The covers have a little cutout for you to pull them off. They were designed so that the cutout is on the side facing the handle. They'll have a little flex to them, but not much. Some may be easier to remove than others. You can use  a nail, mechanical pencil tip, or pretty much anything that'll fit in the slot to get under and lift it. I'll also include a little lifting tool that's optional to print. 

The brass inserts are required. Make sure they are set straight. The clips were not designed to be very forgiving. If things don't line up, then you may not be able to screw the clips down. A tip would be to add the inserts and see if any don't line up. If you see any, heat them up a little, then screw down the clip to get it better aligned. Do this one by one to ensure they align accordingly. I wasn't comfortable with only using screws so I widened the holes for brass inserts instead. Technically you can only use M3x8 screws and M3x6x5 inserts if you want, I like the slightly longer ones for a little added strength.

I haven't had any issues, but remember that this is 3d printed. So be a little mindful when moving around with everything attached.

Wall hanger and end covers will follow soon. Also check out Mirrored_Line_Props. They provided a more accurate pterodactyl coin that I wasn't able to incorporate. They're also working on a Power Box and Power Axe. You can see their other models here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/Mirrored_Line_Props/3d-models

Update:

End covers added. The sizing on the ends may very a little. For me, the skinny end of the lance was slightly larger than the same end of the dagger. If you run into a similar issue, then do a non-uniform scale on the end cap. This is to keep the height the same. For me, the diameter ended up being ~.25 mm larger. I recommend doing some test prints to see if you need to increase, or decrease any sizes. Cut the model in the slicer to save on filament before doing a full print. 

I kept the body very plain. The dagger and lance have different designs on the ends and I didn't want to design unique caps for each. It's simpler to print and keeps the ends uniform. 

Update 2:

Optional wall hanger added. Nothing special, just a way to hang it up for storage. Make sure that no supports are added to the screw holes in the peg and the nail cutouts on the hanger. I recommend this hole measuring tool to help with setting the nails: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/hole-measuring-tool 

With this update, that's all I currently have planned for the model. Always open to feedback or suggestions if you have any.