Deckbox for collectible card games

A parametric deckbox that can be used to store decks for various card games (that use the standard card size, such as MtG, Pokemon, Sorcery, etc). The box consists of two halves which are joined together by hinges. The construction is held together by four 40 mm long M3 screws and their nuts.

I have premade stl files for the parts of boxes that can hold decks up to 30+30, 40+40, 50+50, 60+60, 80+80 or 100+100 (and perhaps few extra) double sleeved cards. The original openscad file is also included so it is possible to render files for boxes that can fit some exotic card amounts. Personally I've used 60+60 sized boxes which look and feel pretty good. Do note that since the latch and hinges require some space this is not the most compact design. Especially with smaller deck sizes the box is relatively much bigger than some other designs would be.

Thanks to the split design a single deckbox can be used to store two different decks making it a nice option if you have exactly two decks you want to carry around.

I've also included filler pieces for 5 and 10 cards in case you want to print your deckbox for a larger deck size but your actual deck has fewer cards. The filler pieces can be used to make the cards fit in more snuggly. Beware of filling the box with too many cards as it can be difficult to remove them if they don't fall out by simply rotating the box and giving them a small shake. It is better to print out a slightly larger box than risk damaging your cards due to stuffing too many cards into the box. A 50+50 deckbox could work well for storing a Magic the Gathering commander deck but if you know that you will often need some tokens it is better to just print a 60+60 box so you have space for 20+ tokens.

Printing instructions

None of the parts need supports as long as your printer can handle 45 degree overhangs. The box is designed with a 0.4 mm nozzle size in mind but it could work with other nozzle sizes as well.

I've included three different versions of the latches as they're very much friction fit and how tight or loose they will end up being can vary a lot on how well calibrated your printer is. I recommend printing the tightest version first and if it ends up being too tight printing a more loose version or a little bit of sandpaper can be used to fix that. If even the tightest latch is too loose then I recommend increasing the flow for the latch part as the increased extrusion will likely fix that. The tolerances are in the scale of 0.1 mm so a little bit of experimentation and/or tweaking might be needed.

As the latch is friction fitted not all materials behave similarly. I've had good results with Polymaker's Polyterra PLA as it leaves a nice matte finish on the parts resulting in a nice feel when the parts are sliding against each other. On the opposite end I really disliked the feel on a box made from eSun's PLA+ as the pieces feel “harder” and the latch has very little friction. Both of these filaments can be used but at least I vastly prefer the Polyterra.

Required parts

• 1x left half (of chosen size)
• 1x right half (of chosen size)
• 1x latch
• 1x separator flap (of chosen size)
• 2x hinge
• 4x 40 mm long M3 screw
• 4x M3 nut

Assembly

The assembly process should be fairly easy. Place the M3 nuts into the holes in the left and right parts and then screw in screws so they will hold the hinges in place. The latch should slide in and out with a little bit of effort but it shouldn't require any tools. There is three different versions for the latch to allow some adjusting. A slightly too tight latch could be fixed with a little bit of sandpaper or just manually loosening it by pushing it in and pulling it out repeatedly. The spatula used to remove prints from the bed can be used to remove the latch if it gets stuck since it can be pushed between the box and the end of the latch.