Potion of Luck

This model is designed to print with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. It has some relatively tight tolerances so you may need to lower your extrusion multiplier on a few parts if you're having trouble. A few pieces require supports (which I'll explain below) and the processing and assembly process is a bit involved. If you're still interested, read on!

Slicing and Printing

You'll need to print 6 copies of the section and pinion parts and 1 of every other part. A few of these need special attention

Body

The body needs supports on the top of the pinhole as well as inside the channels at the base that the sections slot into. You may also want to add a brim; I've occasionally had prints come loose towards the end of the print.

Sections

The sections need support in most of the obvious places. Additionally, I usually add supports a little ways up the backside to help the bottom sharp edge print cleanly.

You'll also definitely want to add a brim to the sections. They have a pretty small contact area with the build plate.

Other Parts

You'll want to add a brim to the catch and the worm wheel (on the inside). The pinion and pin also have small unsupported areas you'll want to add supports to.

Processing

Removing supports from the channels in the body can sometimes be a little tricky. Particularly for the body, the bottom is a bit weak until it's fully assembled so you'll want to be careful not to put too much lateral force on the feet. I use clippers or needle nose pliers to get them out. 

Assembly

Upper Drive Shaft

For this you'll be connecting the shaft, catch, and cap:

Insert the catch into the slot towards the bottom of the shaft. Be careful when inserting it that you push on the back leg of the catch, not the front leg. If you push on the front leg it can bend or break. I use a flathead screwdriver to push the catch in.

Put the cap on top of the shaft with the hinge holes aligned. A piece of 1.75mm filament should just fit as the hinge, though you may have to push it with some pliers.

Lower Drive Shaft

For this you'll be connecting the worm wheel with the keyway. If you look at the underside of the worm wheel there's an arrow indicating the front. Line this up with the channel in the keyway and push them together. They should fit snugly without too much force.

The reason this is two pieces is to allow you to adjust the fit of the sections if they don't close fully. It doesn't often happen, but with some filaments and tolerances the sections don't quite close completely when the wheel is fully turned. If this happens you can take these pieces apart and re-align them. There are 11 faces in the alignment allowing you to adjust how far it turns in 5.5 degree increments.

Sections

Each section needs a pinion attached at the bottom. There's a dovetail on the pinion that slots into the section. Align those and push and it should snap into place without too much force, although you might need to wiggle it back and forth a little if it's stubborn.

Main Assembly

Start by slotting the sections into the body one at a time. Turn the body upside down and slide the pins of the section into the channels of the body with the back of the section facing inwards. Then you can pivot the section up until it's closed against the body.

As you add each additional section you'll need to open up the neighboring sections slightly so that the pinions of the neighbor don't block the pin of the section you're adding.

When all of the sections are in place you'll flip the body back upright and align it so the pinhole is facing away from you. Then you can align the lower drive assembly from the bottom of the body. It's a little tricky, but align it so the keyway is directly opposite the pinhole, rotate it counter clockwise while holding it against the pinions until it clicks once, and then push it up allowing it to rotate clockwise until it's fully inserted. You'll know if the alignment is correct if the keyway lines up with the pinhole. 

Then you'll rotate the lower assembly a little bit to open up the sections so you have access to the pinhole from the outside. Insert the upper drive assembly from the top, making sure that the keyway lines up with the lower assembly.

Lastly, pull the upper shaft out just slightly so that the small indentation or groove is visible from the pinhole. Then, insert the pin in the pinhole with the slot align vertically and use a screwdriver to turn it a quarter turn clockwise.

Then you can turn the shaft clockwise until the bottle fully closes and push the cap down to lock it shut.

Lastly, push the base into the bottom with the feet and tabs aligned. You might need to give it a little smack to lock it into place.

That's it!

Troubleshooting

• If you need to disassemble the bottle, the best way to get the base back off is to open the bottle slightly, slide a flathead screwdriver into the gap between the base and section and pry the base off.
• If the sections don't fully close or are slightly crooked the issue is almost certainly between the pins on the section and the channel in the body. Make sure you've removed all traces of support material from the channel and the pin. You might need to sand or trim the top or bottom of the pin slightly also, although this isn't common.
• If it's difficult to turn the shaft the problem is likely between the worm wheel and the base. Make sure you've removed all of the skirt from the inside of the worm wheel (if you added it). If that doesn't fix it you may need to slightly sand the inside of the worm wheel.
• If the pin won't turn make sure you remembered to remove the support material from the wings. It's possible you might need to sand that area slightly also.
• If any other parts aren't fitting or are a little loose you may need to reprint with and adjusted extrusion multiplier to get the tolerances correct.