ID badge holder / key card holder

A selection of different frames to hold an id badge or key card.  I did search for one, but not very well and ended up creating my own (I now see there are other very similar models available).  

Credit where it is due, I did take some design elements from the badge holder by @AgentMess, but I don't think this is an actual remix.

Design notes: 

• This is not intended to be the strongest card holder ever.  It will flex some and it may wear out over time and if you put a lot of strain on your card holder, this will probably not last very long.  If that's you, I'd recommend finding another model or open the STEP file and add thickness to the back plate.
• The models are designed to be just thick enough to get the job done.  I feel this is prudent since everything we 3D print will end up in a landfill.  Also, the card itself will likely provide some support to the shape.
• I am currently using the “minimal” variant for my own card at work.

Model variants attached:

• all variants have fillets so check your “adaptive layer” setting in your slicer and preview the bottom couple layers.
  • see other print notes below.
• “minimal” version is what I consider to be about as minimal as I could go, with an extra cut-out at the top to remove more material without falling apart under its own weight.  
• “open back” version has a simple rectangular cut out.
• “solid back” version has a no cutouts, just a solid back plate
• “hex back” version has a full field of hexagon cutouts… I spent a lot of time to get them as perfect as possible.  I'm proud of this, but balance the niceness versus the material
  • use wall count of 1 or 2 for this variant and check your print angles... more print notes below.
  • spacing of the hexagons is optimized for a .4mm nozzle.

Print notes: 

• check the following slicer settings

1. Adaptive layers - as noted above, check your adaptive layers setting since all variants have a fillet on the bottom.  preview the sliced model to understand the different layer heights.  the fillet was to maybe prevent snagging on a pocket or shirt as you wear your badge.
2. Wall count - check your wall count as this might affect the strength.  
   • For the “hex back” variant I recommend wall count of 1 or 2 to allow room for a continuous string of filament to sneak through the center between hexagons.
3. Top Surface Skin Line Directions and Top/Bottom Line Directions
   • For the “hex back” variant, I recommend including angles of 60 and 120 degrees to line up with the hexagons.  You can add 0 and 90 degrees as well to create layer strength, just order the values in a way that the visible surfaces use a 60/120 if you like that look (always preview in the slicer).  If you're really particular, you could specify angles for every layer to make sure the surfaces come out as desired.
4. Infill Line Distance and pattern- infill for the side rails.  I recommend distance of 2.0mm or 3.0mm.  Cubic is my go-to infill pattern.
5. Z Hop Height - check your Z Hop Height to avoid having scratches across the top surface (ask me how I know).  .5 mm worked for me to avoid the scratch.
6. Combing / Travel - especially for the Hex pattern design, turn on “combing”/travel only inside printed areas.  For me this greatly reduced stringing inside the hexagons.