Lazy Susan Poker Chip Holder

Update 01/20/25: Additional info on assembly and print settings.

WARNING: This is a prototype and an overkill project. It takes about 2 full 1 Kg spools of filament to print, and with the cost of the hardware and fasteners, comes close in price to the cost of poker chip holders available on Amazon. It can also only be printed on 300mm+ size print beds and requires a minimum Z travel of 200 mm

This Lazy Susan style poker chip holder has 12 slots each with a 50-chip capacity for a total of 600 chips. It is designed to hold 11g standard poker chips (40mm dia, 3mm thick)

It also has space for 2 decks of playing cards, specifically, the Bicycle Prestige plastic playing cards (link: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Prestige-Dura-Flex-Playing-Colors/dp/B00279GNG2).

The lid is magnetically held in place and the whole set up spins with the help of a massive M20 central bolt, riding on thrust bearings and thrust washers.

Note: Pay attention to the magnetic pole orientation when placing them in the main body and lid.

Print Settings:

• Material: PETG
• Nozzle diameter: 0.6mm (recommended, though 0.4 will also work but will take significantly more time to print)
• Print Temp: 250C (lower temp for a matte surface finish)
• Bed Temp: 70-80C ( I prefer 80C as it completely eliminates warping)
• Print Cooling: 0-30% (PETG does not like being cooled too much, unlike PLA)
• Print Speed: 75mm/s for walls, top, and bottom. 120 mm/s for infill. This equates to a max volumetric flow rate of about 15 mm3/s with a 0.6mm nozzle
• Layer height: 0.3mm (0.2 if using a 0.4mm nozzle)
• Wall thickness: 1.2mm
• Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2mm (0.8mm if using a 0.4mm nozzle)
• Infill Density: 15%
• Infill Pattern: Cubic - Connect Infill lines for added strength
• Supports: Only on Build Plate (Only for main body and Feet)

Part Orientation:

• Main Body: Print as shown
• Feet: Print upside down
• Lid: Print upside down
• Handle: Print with flat side down (THIS IS IMPORTANT as you want the layer lines to run along the part shape instead of perpendicular to it so as to prevent layer separation when using it to lift a fully loaded chip holder)

Hardware:

• 6mmx3mm Neodymium magnets: 24 (I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KZQGWNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
• M10 Socket Head Cap Screws (160mm long) - 2 (I used this, but cheaper options may be available: https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A560/)
• M20 Hex head bolt (200mm long) - 1 (I used this one, but cheaper options may be available: https://www.mcmaster.com/91280A905/)
• M20 Panel nut - 1 (I use this one, but cheaper options may be available: https://www.mcmaster.com/91862A715/)
• M20 Thrust washers - 2 (I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYDRWTYP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
• 50mmx70mmx14mm Thrust Bearing - 1 (I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G83D98C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)

Assembly Notes:

• The holes for the handle bolts are already threaded M10, so no need to tap them.
• Use some light machine oil between metal to metal contact areas (Between bolt and thrust washer, between thrust washer plates, between thrust bearing carrier and races, and between the M20 nut and thrust washer) for a smooth spinning action.
• Don't fully tighten the nut. Tighten just enough to prevent things from rattling, but still be able to spin freely. Use Blue Thread locker to secure nut to bolt.