AeroHGXtruder NX

Project Description

If you have a Titan Aero clone printer, would like a new extruder with a large gear to feed the filament, and don't want to spend $100 or more on a new extruder, then this project is for you.

Benefits of the new AeroHGXtruder NX drive for Titan Aero
- Low cost (it is a fraction of the price of a new extruder),
- After the modification, the new drive adds 4.2mm to the space of the original drive, the X-axis needs to be slightly modified mechanically (or, with some simplifications, not modified at all), the distance of the Z probe axis from the nozzle axis in the X-axis needs to be updated, and the software is modified to accommodate the new drive gears,
- The new drive uses the original Nema 17 motor.
- We get a drive with a large gear that feeds the HGXlite filament,
- uses an ingenious pressure lever, modelled on the @Prusa3d Nextruder, which increases the contact surface between the feed wheel and the filament,
- You can seamlessly revert to the original version if you have problems installing the new gear.

This is a specific design for the Titan Aero heat sink manufactured by Artillery.
Different Chinese versions of the Titan Aero may have a heatsink of a different size and shape, but the mounting system for the NEMA 17 motor is the same.
If you have another printer with a Titan Aero Extruder then nothing is lost, you can buy the original Artillery heat sink and mount the whole thing in your printer in place of your Titan Aero Extruder.

This is my original idea for a new extruder drive to replace the TitanAero gear clone. I used the experience gained from remixing the excellent ProtoXtruder by @nhchiu, also with the @Prusa3d Nextruder lever.

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How is the AeroHGXtruder NX extruder different from the AeroXtruder NX?
Is it a new version of the AroXtruder NX? 
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The AeroHGXtruder NX is NOT a new version of the AroXtruder NX.... 

The AeroXtruder NX has a HGX filament gear and a TBGlite reduction gear, so the size and therefore the filament feed axis does not change.
Unfortunately, the original TBGlite reduction gear is now difficult to obtain, so I have redesigned the AeroXtruder to the AeroHGXtruder NX type, which has the HGX filament gear and uses the original HGX reduction gear. The simplified design of the AeroXtruder2 NX results in a 4.2mm enlargement of the X-axis design - which requires some design changes to the X-axis of the printer.

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I also designed a dedicated 360degree cooling system modeled after the Prusa MK4S (Version v6_HGX for printhead AeroHGXtruderNX):
https://www.printables.com/model/1111556-artillery-360-degree-print-cooling/files

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I also designed a dedicated X-axis endstop offset 2mm for the AeroHGXtruderNX printhead.

This is a holder that moves and improves the X axis endstop engagement by “2mm” for Artillery SidewinderX1/X2, Genius/GeniusPRO printers.
https://www.printables.com/model/1251414-sidewinder-x2x1-geniusgeniuspro-x-axis-endstop-off

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To build the AeroHGXtruder NX you will need:

1. Artillery SidewinderX2 or GeniusPro extruder or at least an Artillery heat sink(affiliate link).
2. HGX lite kit (affiliate link)- kit parts needed for AeroXtruderNX:
- 3mm shaft (16mm length) x 2pcs (one to be converted into 2pcs 3x7.5mm)
  Instead of one original 3x16 shaft from the HGX kit, I recommend the following solution DIN 6325 3x16 mm m6 steel cylindrical mandrel as an axle for the large filament wheel.
- large filament gear with pin bearing x 1pcs
- reduction gear x 1pcs
- heat inserts (M3 x D4.5 x H5) x 4pcs (one M3 x D4.5 x H4.5
- M3x8mm BHCS x 1pcs trimmed to M3x6mm
- M3x14mm SHCS x 2pcs trimmed to M3x11,5…12mm

3. Trianglelab brass gear 5mm/0.5M 17T (affiliate link) or other similar 5mm/0.5M17T(affiliate link).

4. Other parts needed for extruder and lever system: 

- M3x6mm SHCS x 1pcs
- M3x24mm SHCS x 2pcs
- M3x7.5mm FHSCS x 1pcs
- M3x15mm FHSCS x 1pcs
- M3x30mm FHSCS x 1pcs
- M3x36mm FHSCS x 1pcs
- M3 nut x 1pcs
- Tubular spacer 4x3x9mm x 1pcs - I made one out of a brass tube that I have(affiliate link)

- shaft 3x7.5mm x 2pcs (I cut a free pin 3x16 from the HGX gearbox)
- 683ZZ bearings with U-groove x 2pcs (affiliate link)
- M3x20mm BHCS x 2pcs
- M3 nyloc nut x 2pcs
- spacer 6x3.1x8mm x 1pcs (affiliate link)

- M3x45mm SHCS x 2pcs trimmed to M3x31.5mm
- Spring 5x15x0.8mm x 2pcs - I made two from the long one I bought earlier(affiliate link)

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 Klipper/Marlin settings.

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Klipper:

The klipper itself changed my thread feed direction (there is an extra gear) to the correct direction.

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Marlin:
Two values need to be changed in the "Configuration.h" file and then the new firmware compiled:

1. You need to change the direction of rotation:

#define INVERT_E0_DIR false

Change to

#define INVERT_E0_DIR true

2. You need to change the number of steps per millimetre:

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 445 }

Change to

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 335 }

I have given the value of steps per millimetre as theoretical - you should adjust it for your own printer by sending the appropriate g-code using, for example, Proterface.

If you cannot compile new firmware for your printer, you can change the value of steps per millimetre directly with g-code via Proterface.

The direction of rotation of the motor can be changed by dappropriately switching the pins on the motor plug.

But you will have to find a tutorial on how to do this yourself.

As I recommend compiling new firmware and updating this in the printer.

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Print settings.

Print parts from ABS/ASA.
You can print from PETG (I haven't tested) if you don't have a built-in printer, but I recommend printing them from ABS/ASA.

Nozzle 0.4, layer 0.2, infill 40%, 4 perimeters.

The design considers a print with a layer height of 0.2mm.

However, in order for the parts to fit correctly, the back, front of the case (BACK and FRONT) and both halves of the lever arm (idlerAlever, idlerBlever) have the highest surfaces in multiples other than 0.2mm.

Therefore:
- idler Lever A and idler Lever B should be printed on a separate printout with the 'Precise Z Height' option enabled and:

layer height 0.2
first layer height 0.2

- The BACK should be printed on a separate print with the 'Precise Z Height' option enabled  and:

layer height 0.2
first layer height 0.2

- The FRONT should be printed on a separate print with the 'Precise Z Height' option enabled  and:

layer height 0.2
first layer height 0.2

THE FRONT, in addition to the supports I built into the model, must have hand-painted supports in the area shown in the photo below.

After cutting in the slicer, it should look like this:

If you have never printed precision parts for a printer I will add a tutorial and *.3mf files.

(tutorial  under preparation).

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After printing.

After printing the “idlerLeverB”  the integral support (the grey part in the photo) must be carefully removed:

When assembled, the idlerleverB must not rub against the gear teeth of the filament:

After printing the “idlerLeverB” and "FRONT" the integral support (the grey part in the photo) must be carefully removed.

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Assembly.

I have added tips and assembly instructions in a pdf file (manual under preparation).

For the assembly of the lever system I recommend the original @Prusa3D manual, but keep in mind that in my version some of the dimensions of the parts may differ.

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Note:

For lever assembly, you can refer to the Nextruder lever assembly instructions on the Prusa website:

https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-nextruder-assembly_434014

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Assumptions according to which I designed the AeroHGXtruderNX:

• low cost,
• i allow a slight enlargement of the extruder and a slight modification of the X-axis due to the reduction gear available in the HGX kit,
• it must use the original Nema 17 motor,
• large HGXlite filament feeding gear,
• pressure lever modeled on the @Prusa3d Nextruder,
• trouble-free return to the original version in case of problems with the installation of the new gearbox (if you have not converted the Axis-X).

NOTES.

• The design is my idea to modify an extruder for my printer.
• This is not a certified solution dedicated to the Artillery Sidewinder X2 compliant with VDE, IEC or similar standards.
• Any modification to the printer done by yourself increases the risk of accident and fire.
• Never leave the printer on unattended.
• Use at your own risk.

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Updated 13.06.2025
Updated description.

I updated the recommendation to the extruder settings in the printer.cfg configuration file.

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Updated 30.04.2025
Updated description.

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Update 03.04.2025

I also designed a dedicated X-axis endstop offset 2mm for the AeroHGXtruderNX printhead.

This is a holder that moves and improves the X axis endstop engagement by “2mm” for Artillery SidewinderX1/X2, Genius/GeniusPRO printers.
https://www.printables.com/model/1251414-sidewinder-x2x1-geniusgeniuspro-x-axis-endstop-off

Additional Klipper settings for AeroHGXtruderNX, dedicated X-axis endstop offset 2mm and standard ABL-Touch:

[stepper_x]

# position_endstop: 0

position_min: -2.0
position_endstop: -2.0

[bltouch]

# x_offset: 27.25

x_offset:31.25

[safe_z_home]

# home_xy_position: 122.75,162.8

home_xy_position: 118.75,162.8

[bed_mesh]

# mesh_min: 27.25, 12.8
# mesh_max: 272.75, 287.2

mesh_min: 31.25, 12.8
mesh_max: 268.75, 287.2

[screws_tilt_adjust]

# screw1: 23,63
# screw2: 223,63
# screw3: 223,263
# screw4: 23,263

screw1: 19,63
screw2: 219,63
screw3: 219,263
screw4: 19,263

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