Added a version of the left part without the PSU guard for airflow to the PSU, in case you want to remove the PSU fan and use a mesh lid; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800781
Added a version of all 4 lid-halves with flush bolts
Inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203653 (which I cannot select as source for Remix, but I will keep trying) and xeroxed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4636181, but fully rebuilt from scratch.
This is a continuation of my previous replacement lid; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761348
This is a three-part lid for the Ender 5 and Ender 5 Pro (as I have been told) electronics enclosure.
My goal was to create a perfectly snug fitting lid, in as little as possible parts.
4x m3x16 or longer bolt for the corners, could do with M3x14 in case of the flush bolts version
3x m3x12 bolt with nut for coupling the two pieces.
4x m3x??? bolt with nuts for mounting the fan you wish.
I myself mounted the fan (12 mm thick) with 4x m3x18 bolts, 4x m3x6 panel mount and 4 nuts (in order: bolt, lid, fan, panel mount, fan guard, nut)
See photo for a close-up :)
There are 10 parts in this thing
2 left-side lids, one with a fan hole 120mm and one with a simple grill
and a variant of each with flush bolts
2 right-side lids, again, one with a fan hole 120mm and one with a simple grill
and a variant of each with flush bolts
2 fan grills, one is flush (in case you create spacing yourself like I did, see photo) and one with 1mm spacing where the fan-blades spin.
I would advise against using the simple grill version on the left side, unless you plan to use a custom fan solution that pulls air across the controller board, but for symmetry, I just had to include it (OCD!)
The left-side part with fan hole has a cut-out for cables, as I am using a RasPi with camera. Upon request I will create a version without a cut-out, but it's easily remixed by yourself. This part also has a small airflow guard to prevent the 120mm fan from pushing air through the PSU fan, which (as I am told) is bad for a fan. (A fan should always only rotate under their own power. it's a long-term-thing)
Total "height" for printing is 14mm, the lid itself is 13.3mm (because the corners are not flush, but counter-sunk in the case). As the main-lid-area is 2.3 mm thick (because, the original was). this gives 11mm extra space. But the lid is slightly recessed, (by 1mm) so the actual space gain is 10mm.
The fan guard is specially crafted for 0.2 layer height, 0.4 nozzle. (0.10 layer height would work too)
it will print diagonal lines top left to bottom right on the odd layers and top right to bottom left on the even layers (or vice versa). This saves time and filament.
If you like it, click the like (heart)
If you print it; post a make
If you have suggestions for improvements, questions, any kind of remarks; leave a comment
Looking at the download statistics, you guys and gals out there really like this thing :) so, leave a like, a make, a comment.
Much appreciated!
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender 5
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
.2
Infill:
40%
Filament: REAL PLA (and GreenTec Black for the fan Guard) Orange
Notes:
For printing the lid parts, either print without skirt, or configure Cura (or other slicer) to print the skirt closer to the part so it will fit on the build plate.
Also, when using clips, for example with a glass bed, make sure you place the clips after the skirt is printed, and place them on the absolute edge of the print bed.
Better would be to use low profile bed clamps, like these: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001803653289.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dF6iKD5
or no clamps at all (on my ender 5 I often print without clamps as the bed is stationary.)
When printing on a magnetic surface, there is no problem at all :P
Category: 3D Printer PartsThe author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.