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Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) Minimal DIY Enclosure - prints faster, uses less plastic - and more

43 reviews
Remixed an excellent remix for variety of improvements/tweaks. Better than OG in lots of ways! See description for more.
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updated February 10, 2026

Description

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Heads-up News

Heads-up #1: there’s a newer version of this here: https://www.printables.com/model/1247920-new-v30-of-top-riser-set-for-flashforge-adventurer  

Also, heads-up #2:

There is a helpful new “guard plate” improvement remix addressing what several makers have noticed re. the attachment challenges on the C and D guard plates. As one maker noted, they were thrilled with the design overall, except for one area: "The only issue I had with the design is that I wish the rear (C and D) guard plates had a more robust way to attach, either to each other, or to the printer." — So do please check out a new remix by @Gduck59_3101769: https://www.printables.com/model/1259116-remix-of-guard-plates — he made various improvements including adding magnet sockets to the C and D guard plates.

Also, heads-up #3:

As of late January, 2026, I added a newly remixed door hinge that repositions the door downward by 5mm to prevent any scraping against the touchscreen. In conjunction with that, you'll also want to print the new, remixed v2 HANDLE that has its latch moved upwards by 5mm to counterbalance this new hinge, so the handle will still latch properly. The new handle is included in this listing. ALSO, as of February 2, around 3pm, the I uploaded a newly revised version of the included .3mf OrcaSlicer project file, named "AD5M Minimal Enclosure by Design8Studio.3mf" (which I think downloads as named "ad5m-minimal-enclosure-by-design8studio.3mf" or some such. Not only does this revised file have the latest new door hinge and door knob, which move the plexiglass door down by 5mm as called for to avoid it touching against the touch screen, but I also realized that in some earlier work, apparently the auto tree supports had gotten disabled on all the guard plates and many of the side-mounted spool holders. I feel badly about that. So sorry. Now corrected.

FAQ

  • Q: I printed your enclosure and I can’t figure out how to install the filament sensor / spool holder. I’ve looked on YouTube for installation videos and still stuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     

  • A: Not long after the initial release of the Adventurer 5M, the manufacturer, Flashforge, switched from shipping the original bidirectional sensor to a unidirectional sensor, for which my remixes fully support both options. The switch to the unidirectional sensor meant that the sensor's input "jack" or "socket" for the wire, is now positioned closer to the bed (not closer to the back of the printer as before). There is enough excess wire that can be "fished" up out of the inside of the frame, and there is a pathway in my remixed design to get that excess wire to cover the distance to where it needs plugged in. It's like a groove.

    Note that the printed part that has the sensor mounted to it, as shown in my remixes, has a special addition: a protrusion toward the side, with a screw hole in it. The backside (inner side) of that screw hole has a nut capture slot (M3). There were already some other M3 nut capture slots in that printed part, and this is an added one, just for my side-mounted spool holder designs. After I insert the nuts, I use a drop or two of CA glue to make sure they don't fall out. The side-mounted spool holder formerly would attach with only one screw; a replacement for the short M4 screw that holds the top of the rear, side, guard plate. My side-mounted spool holders all require that stock M4 screw to be replaced by a slightly longer one. But using only one screw was less than ideal. So I modified the sensor mount and my side-mounted spool holder remixes to have their own matching protrusions toward each other. It's made for an M3 screw into the captured M3 nut. That allows a second screw for securing them much better.

    Note: This is all designed intentionally to be compatible with the enclosure kit sold by Flashforge, and the contents of their kit comprise the entire BOM for this project, except for the extra M3 nut and M3 screw, and the slightly longer M4 screw. Here's an affiliate link to the kit on Amazon, sold by the official Flashforge vendor listing: https://amzn.to/4ijsmRb — You can also order the enclosure from Aliexpress, probably cheaper, with slower delivery. Here's a link to Flashforge's wiki about their OG enclosure, upon which this is based, only this one has improvements saving time & plastic and having better features: https://wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy 

    And here is Flashforge's video on how to install the DIY enclosure. It helps a lot with understanding that can be applied to my remixes:
     

     

 

  • Q: What are the hardwares needed? What size and thickness of plexiglass and how many of each?

  • A: This is designed intentionally to be compatible with the enclosure kit sold by Flashforge, and the contents of their kit comprise the entire BOM for this project. Here's an affiliate link to the kit on Amazon, sold by the official Flashforge vendor listing: https://amzn.to/4ijsmRb — You can also order the enclosure from Aliexpress, probably cheaper, with slower delivery. Here's a link to Flashforge's wiki about their OG enclosure, upon which this is based, only this one has improvements saving time & plastic and having better features: https://wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy 
    Quoting from the Flashforge wiki: "If you want to do 100% DIY: Acrylic plate size (designer: Flashforge) — Download the dimensions for acrylic plates:

 

CHANGE LOG

  • Monday, February 2, 206 - Uploaded a newly revised version of the included .3mf OrcaSlicer project file, named "AD5M Minimal Enclosure by Design8Studio.3mf" (which I think downloads as named "ad5m-minimal-enclosure-by-design8studio.3mf" or some such. Not only does this revised file have the latest new door hinge and door knob, which move the plexiglass door down by 5mm as called for to avoid it touching against the touch screen, but I also realized that in some earlier work, apparently the auto tree supports had gotten disabled on all the guard plates and many of the side-mounted spool holders. I feel badly about that. So sorry. Now corrected.  

  • Tuesday, January 27, 2026 - uploaded tweaked version of the new v3 of the AD5M DIY Enclosure DoorHinge. In the new area added for aesthetics, a hinge "tooth" was missing. If you already downloaded and printed, there is no need to redo it. The missing tooth will not affect functionality. The number of hinge teeth present before this fix was already more hinge teeth than the original. Kudos to fellow Printables maker Алексей Елсуков for catching this during slicing.

      

  • Monday, January 26, 2026 - added a new handle to go along with the new door hinge. The hinge moves the door down 5mm, and this handle has its latch moved up 5mm to counterbalance it. The new hinge was added Jan. 22, see below. 
     

  • Thursday, January 22, 2026 - added new v3 of the AD5M DIY Enclosure DoorHinge - remixed to be especially for MINIMAL enclosure and its remixes, because it moves the plexiglass front door downward by 5mm, to allow no collision with touchscreen without having to so do any surgery on the plexiglass - plus all the earlier v2 and v1 improvements: easier to separate, better door placement through left-right adjustability. NOTE: the files for whole project still have v2, and the new v3 is added as a standalone .STL and standalone .3MF.

  • March 31, 2025 - On two vertical guard plates (labelled C1 and D1), I expanded the large recessed area on the inside face by 9mm of additionally longer recess, because one maker reported that a screw head on his AD5M frame was outside the recess and colliding with and buckling out the guard plate set on the C1 side. After I expanded the C1 side, I then mirrored the same change on the D1 side just to be safe. C1 and C2 are on the rear left column and D1 and D2 are on the rear right column. It's unclear if this issue was affecting only him or everyone, and unclear if his unit is made differently from others.
     

  • March 29, 2025 - posted a separate new listing with an updated set of the top riser parts. Get those, and the brief details for why, here: https://www.printables.com/model/1247920-new-v30-of-top-riser-set-for-flashforge-adventurer 
     

  • Also March 29, 2025 - gave some love to the main .3mf Orca Slicer setup file. Found several areas needing attention. Somehow several items were off the bed, and needed moved back into place. (Not sure how that happened, unless a new version of Orca Slicer changed the spacing between beds?) The four option choices for side mounted spool holder were not only out of place, but their support blockers were missing. A newer fifth option choice for side mounted spool holder (the “low slung edition") was not yet added. All the spool holders were set to 2 perimeter walls, when I actually printed with 3 walls and recommend that for strength. The option choice of front left top riser that's without my logo embossed on it, was previously included in the listing but not in the main .3mf. All the top risers were set to 15% infill when 10% will do fine, and it saves on printing time  and plastic used, so I adjusted that. The setup file had my customized (Klipper Mod-based) printer profile selected instead of the stock Flashforge printer profile, so new users were facing confusion on why the print job was not working. All of these have been fixed in the newly updated .3mf file in this listing. Sorry for the issues.    
     

  • March 10, 2025 - replaced the v1 door hinge with new v2 door hinge. In addition to being easier to open, it adds adjustability for left-right placement of the door, because for some users, including myself, the default door placement is too far to the left.
     

  • March 2, 2025 - Corrected an “oops” from both the February 21 update and the March 1 update. I had accidentally re-uploaded the older versions of the D1 and D2 guard plates. As of today, I have corrected that. So sorry for the mistake. Kudos and thanks to fellow maker @Jeff_2905196 who spotted the mistake and called my attention to it.  ALSO, I noticed that I had previously failed to update the included OrcaSlicer file with the whole set, to reflect the Feb. 21 and Mar. 1 updates. I fixed that too. That file is named “AD5M Minimal Enclosure by Design8Studio.3mf”
     

  • March 1, 2025 - added a folder with all the guard plates as individual files. No modeling changes were made. A fellow maker had requested a subset of guard plates as individual files, so I'm making access available to all.
     

  • February 21, 2025 - improved the listing by two changes: 

    (1) added missing labels to all the vertical Guard Plate Parts. Not only that, but updated all labels to help identify Guard Plate Parts as to whether they are for a “front” or a “side.” Note: the labeling scheme still matches as closely as possible to that of the installation manual for the original DIY enclosure. This scheme is as follows: front right column is "A", front left column is “B”, rear left column is “C”, and rear right column is “D.” See screen shot:



    (2) added beveled “grip tabs” to the two back vertical Guard Plate Part sets, since the essential minimization process had both the top and bottom parts needing to be installed with only one screw each. I had CA-glued the top to the bottom on each side. These added beveled “grip tabs” will help the tops and bottoms to lock into each other, increasing strength in case there is no glue, and aiding with indexing / alignment if there is glue. See screen shot:


        

  • January 1, 2025 - initial upload

Photo of a nice make and install

Documentation & Options

NEW as of Feb 15, 2025, there's a new “low slung edition” of side-mounted spool holder for AD5M:

https://www.printables.com/model/1193462-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-improved-side-mount 

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Minimal DIY enclosure for the Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M); compatible with the OG enclosure kit, no modification required. 

These pics are of an earlier iteration in the design. The final files have slightly better aesthetics.

This is made to work with my newly remixed side-mounted spool holder, now stronger and 10mm wider so the wider spools from Amazon Basics should work. It comes in 4 styles (see links below).

NOTE: Use the printed Filament Sensor Mount in THIS listing, not the one in the spool holder listings. The one here is made for this enclosure. The Filament Sensor Mount in the spool holder listings is made for the original DIY enclosure. There is a slight difference on the mounts. 

To get the newly remixed side-mounted spool holder just access the main .3mf Orca Slicer setup file in this listing, or click one of the links below, or:

  1. OG (original) style spool holder - CLICK HERE

  2. Circles style spool holder - CLICK HERE

  3. Hexagons style spool holder - CLICK HERE

  4. Solid style spool holder - CLICK HERE

 

Before I give a long list of tweaks / improvements, the TLDR is: 

  • Prints in less time, uses less plastic, and in my opinion is better in substantial ways.

  • Keeps the touchscreen mounted to the steel frame in the stock position, which is better, and that makes the AD5M camera's cable not be too short to use (without resorting to another one of my remixes for that). The AD5M camera (which is for the Pro version but can be bought and installed on the non-pro version - and its standardized video feed can be displayed remotely in either of the web-based UI choices available if you do the unofficial Klipper mod, and perhaps by other UI's) does not need to have a modified mount (linked above) to get its wire cable to be long enough to reach a higher position of a relocated touchscreen, because the touch screen does not have to be moved.

  • It makes any maintenance work easier because the top is so much easier to remove (no wiring ribbon cable threaded through a slit to a relocated touchscreen, and no camera cable threaded through a hole to a relocated touchscreen). With the original DIY enclosure, the lid cannot be removed without the touchscreen's ribbon cable (and camera cable if you have one) being disconnected and the touchscreen removed. This is so much better.  

Thanks and kudos to @KuangmingQin_2573991 for his excellent minimal enclosure on which this is based.

 

Here's a list of most of the tweaks / improvements

  • A necessary concave area inside the right-rear top riser, had a cantilevered overhang that required supports to print without drooping, and yet the overhang itself served no purpose. Removed so that the top portion of this riser now prints without supports. The lower area of the same riser, where there is a carved out place for the runout sensor mount, still likely needs supports.

  • In going for "minimal"… 

    • There were 30 mm of height shaved off the top risers, which is a lot. I reduced the height shaving from 30 mm to 25 mm. Adding 5 mm back onto the height means adding a little onto the print time, but it's worth it because that space is important if you want to add my filament cutter remix, and you don't want that PTFE tube rubbing the plexiglas lid raw and marring it. Check for clearance. Regarding the length of PTFE tubing from the FF kit for the DIY enclosure, I cut about 70 mm off (about 2 ¾"). Works fine. 

    • There was no angle or bevel on the top risers, but rather a flat step inward before a straight vertical rise, which lost some aesthetic benefit, IMHO. I put some bevel back in, which added almost no additional print time (only about 5 minutes or so.) It looks better in my view.

    • The “snap-in” connectors (in the OG enclosure) to attach the top risers to each other, had been removed (as there was not enough room for them). By me re-adding some bevel back in (see above) it regained enough room for them, so I added smaller versions of them back. They work well. I had built the minimal enclosure by @KuangmingQin_2573991 without these connectors, and I really missed having them.

  • On the right-rear top riser, there was previously no space allowance for the wire (to the filament runout sensor) to exit from the side of the DIY printed Sensor Mount, as would be necessary given that Flashforge has switched to shipping a newer unidirectional runout sensor (in response to many users having had trouble inserting filament). I added space for the wire to exit to the side and pass around to the new runout sensor.

  • Since I also offer an improved DIY printed sensor mount and improved side-mounted spool holder, I made the right rear top riser compatible with my improved mount and spool holder. This essentially means the hole on the side for the PTFE tube to exit, needed moved to align with the new side-mounted spool holder, and meant the space/opening for wiring was added (see above).

  • The magnet capture sockets on the bottoms of the top risers were a bit too tight to fit the magnets shipped by Flashforge in the kit they sell for the DIY enclosure and it took too much force and precision to get the magnets pressed into the sockets, like as though they were supposed to be a friction fit and not allow for CA glue. This was more inconvenient than it needed to be, so I increased the diameter of the sockets from 5.1 mm to 5.25 mm.

  • Also I added some magnet capture slots on the bottom front of the top riser in the right front position (behind the touch screen). I double checked where the metal is, and it's available for the magnets there.

  • The "Front Door Handle.STL" part that required supports during printing, I remixed so that no supports are needed.

  • The print-in-place door hinges from the OG enclosure, have a very tight tolerance and always fuse together during printing, and often break when trying to pry them open. I remixed these to increase the tolerance from 0.1 to 0.15 and I was able to pry them open without breaking the hinge.

NOTE: The benefit of keeping the touchscreen in the stock position means the plexiglas front door was moved down by @KuangmingQin_2573991 — I think he said by 5mm. I cut the extra off the bottom of the plexiglas, but @KuangmingQin_2573991 said he just added something to where the door closes against the frame, maybe a strip of tape or something? See his remix for details on that.

PRINT NOTES

  • Print as oriented

  • Supports: 

    • Top Risers = yes. I used tree supports set to auto

    • Guard plate parts = yes. Some of the guard plates that go onto the side uprights, have grooves made to old the bottoms of the plexiglas side windows. Those grooves can really benefit from supports. Here again I used tree supports set to auto. 

  • “Filament Sensor Mount + Drag Chain Mount LOWER” now is set to print at a 45 degree angle, which I had no trouble printing without supports needed. If you have trouble, try the included one that has built-in breakaway support fins.

OTHER NOTES

  • The Top_Left_Front riser has two versions included, one with no logo, and another with my Design8Studio logo. 

  • The four back parts on the sides, these are only retained with a single screw each. The original FlashForge enclosure parts (that were not minimalist) wrapped around, and had more than one screw to secure each part. To address this, I CA glued the tops and bottoms to each other, so the resulting merged part has more than one screw.

  • I'm getting reports that the print-in-place door hinges are still getting fused together and not opening as intended. So, the hinges are still a frustration. My effort here (to increase the tolerance from 0.1 mm to 0.15 mm) is obviously not enough yet to prevent fusing on all printers and all filaments. I have another hinge that I had designed for some DIY cabinet doors, and it used an M3 screw as a hinge pin. I may look into redoing the hinge from scratch to get a more workable thing.

INSTALLATION INFO

In addition to the video and installation guide linked below, for the remixed side mounted spool holder, be sure to check out the BOM and installation tips on that listing here:

If you either watch the Flashforge video on how to assemble the DIY enclosure, or get from their Wiki the details on it, you will get a good handle on mine. Most everything will be the same or very similar. Both are below!

NOTE: The two side verticals in the back... I CA-glued the top to the bottom on each, before attaching them with screws. I will look into whether something can be done to make it better.

Flashforge video:

And here's the link to the Flashforge Wiki with the details on the DIY enclosure:

And from the wiki, here are links to the installation guide in a variety of languages:

Finally, you may want to check out my many other remixes for the AD5M (see partial list below), including my mount for the side cutters, and matching safety cap for the side cutters:

Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) Side Cutter Mount v1.0

Safety Cover for Side-Cutter Tips

 

Other cool options for the AD5M

 

You may also like my other AD5M related design work:

Use Klipper stuff on AD5M stock hardware…

Check out other cool AD5M related options here:

 

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio  

 

Model origin

The author remixed this model.

Flashforge AD5M Minimal Enclosure
 by Kuangming Qin
 
(1 of 4) Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED, SIDE-MOUNT Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount! v2.1.1
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
(2 of 4) Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED, SIDE-MOUNT Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount! v2.1.1
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
(3 of 4) Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED, SIDE-MOUNT Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount! v2.1.1
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
(4 of 4) Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED, SIDE-MOUNT Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount! v2.1.1
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED, SIDE-MOUNT Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount! v3.1
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
Flashforge AD5M Enclosure Hinge - remix - easier to open, better door placement (print-in-place Door Hinge) v2
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount + SIDE MOUNT Spool Holder! v1.1
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 
Flashforge AD5M Door Handle - remixed to print without need of supports
 by Doug Joseph (design8studio)
 

Differences of the remix compared to the original

I remixed Kuangming Qin's excellent set to add a variety of improvements/tweaks. See description for more.

License