(1 of 4) Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED, SIDE-MOUNT Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount! v2.1.1

FAQ

• Q: I printed your enclosure and I can’t figure out how to install the filament sensor / spool holder. I’ve looked on YouTube for installation videos and still stuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
   

• A: Not long after the initial release of the Adventurer 5M, the manufacturer, Flashforge, switched from shipping the original bidirectional sensor to a unidirectional sensor, for which my remixes fully support both options. The switch to the unidirectional sensor meant that the sensor's input "jack" or "socket" for the wire, is now positioned closer to the bed (not closer to the back of the printer as before). There is enough excess wire that can be "fished" up out of the inside of the frame, and there is a pathway in my remixed design to get that excess wire to cover the distance to where it needs plugged in. It's like a groove.
  
  Note that the printed part that has the sensor mounted to it, as shown in my remixes, has a special addition: a protrusion toward the side, with a screw hole in it. The backside (inner side) of that screw hole has a nut capture slot (M3). There were already some other M3 nut capture slots in that printed part, and this is an added one, just for my side-mounted spool holder designs. After I insert the nuts, I use a drop or two of CA glue to make sure they don't fall out. The side-mounted spool holder formerly would attach with only one screw; a replacement for the short M4 screw that holds the top of the rear, side, guard plate. My side-mounted spool holders all require that stock M4 screw to be replaced by a slightly longer one. But using only one screw was less than ideal. So I modified the sensor mount and my side-mounted spool holder remixes to have their own matching protrusions toward each other. It's made for an M3 screw into the captured M3 nut. That allows a second screw for securing them much better.
  
  Note: This is all designed intentionally to be compatible with the enclosure kit sold by Flashforge, and the contents of their kit comprise the entire BOM for this project, except for the extra M3 nut and M3 screw, and the slightly longer M4 screw. Here's an affiliate link to the kit on Amazon, sold by the official Flashforge vendor listing: https://amzn.to/4ijsmRb — You can also order the enclosure from Aliexpress, probably cheaper, with slower delivery. Here's a link to Flashforge's wiki about their OG enclosure, upon which this is based, only this one has improvements saving time & plastic and having better features: https://wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy 
  
  And here is Flashforge's video on how to install the DIY enclosure. It helps a lot with understanding that can be applied to my remixes:
   

   

NEW as of Feb 15, 2025, there's a new “low slung edition” of side-mounted spool holder for AD5M:

https://www.printables.com/model/1193462-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-improved-side-mount 

HEADS UP: As of February 2, 2025, I have revised the sensor mount part — widened by 2 mm. Not sure how I made such a mistake, but it's corrected now. That part's version number went to 2.1.1, and I also notched up the listing's version number to 2.1.1. If you downloaded this prior to February 2, 2025 and had issues with things being too tight to fit right, the only part you need to reprint is the sensor mount part. So sorry for the issue.

This is regarding the DIY enclosure upgrade.  

In addition to the various improvements (see below) I'm offering four cosmetic treatments of the spool holder, three of which are new: 

1. OG (original) - THIS LISTING

2. Circles - CLICK HERE

3. Hexagons - CLICK HERE

4. Solid - CLICK HERE

IMPROVEMENTS

• This revision improves on my popular earlier remix, now mounting the side-mounted spool holder with two screws instead of one, for added rigidity and easier use. 

• This new spool holder can take spools that are up to 10mm wider, to support Amazon Basics brand of spools, as per dialog with a maker using that brand.

• Plus, the print orientation of the “Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount” part (now printing at a 45-degree angle) not only makes the new design possible, but also gives the best resistance against any failure of splitting due to the "layer-line adhesion" issue inherent in all FDM 3D printing.

• The “Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount” part now has a wingtip extending a screw hole so the side mounted spool holder gains a second screw for mounting. Technically speaking, this added second screw mount could have been achieved by remixing a guard plate on the DIY enclosure design, but that's a not-good-idea for a variety of reasons. The 4 guard plates are printed vertically in two tall sets of 4 each, and the vertical printing of them is made more doable by them being grouped and supporting each other. In this, only one guard plate would need revised, meaning a challenging vertical print of only 1 out of 8, with the added possibility that the print might take place in a different setting and with a different filament or different filament batch, thus no longer matching the other 7 in color or finish … and generally I dislike for something new to not be backward compatible with an existing larger setting. So… 

DO I NEED IT?

If you're getting good service from your v1.0 or v1.1 release of the side-mounted spool holder, there is no need to do this upgrade yet. However, if it should become troublesome in the future, you could do this upgrade to replace it. If you've not yet done the side-mounted spool holder – then by all means, do this improved version of it.

BOM

• Three (3) M3 nuts - one of these is in addition to the DIY enclosure kit.

• One (1) machine screw, M3 x 8mm - new in addition to the DIY enclosure kit. 

• One (1) machine screw, M4 x 10 mm - new in addition to the DIY enclosure kit.

• Four (4) machine screws, either M3 x 5mm or M3 x 6mm. These would have either already been on hand from your existing machine and/or already were called for in your DIY enclosure kit or its BOM. 

• You will also need the other screws from the DIY enclosure kit / or from your existing machine, for attaching the Filament Runout Sensor to the printed mount (I think those are two (2) M3 x 20mm), and for attaching the Drag Chain Fixing Clip to the mount (I think those are two (2) M3 x 25mm). If I have the length wrong on either, please let me know in comments. The stock screws that previously attached the Filament Runout Sensor to the metal frame, can be reused.

PRINTING

• Print as oriented.

• PLA is fine.

• Skirt must be disabled or set to 0 perimeters in order to fit the widened spool holder on the 220x220 mm print bed of the AD5M. 

  • Q: How do I turn the skirt off in OrcaSlicer?

  • A: In OrcaSlicer there is a tab choice under "Process" for "Global" versus "Objects" — the skirt settings can be edited under Global > Others > Skirt. Set the number of skirt perimeters from 2 (or whatever) to 0 to turn the skirt off.

• Supports 

  • Support are not needed except for the spool holder. For the spool holder, I enabled tree supports in auto mode. I also added a couple of support blockers to the spool holder to prevent unwanted supports where not needed, such as on screw holes and the small holes for inserting the PTFE tubes on the top of the part. The long, partially-open slots for the PTFE tubes do need supports.

  • I had no issues printing the mount at 45 degrees without supports. However, if you have trouble with that, use the provided set with built-in breakaway support fins included. You would still have supports turned off in your slicer, and yet the support fins would print. After printing, snap them off. 

INSTALLATION NOTES

• Flashforge heard our early feedback that the stock Runout Sensor was very hard to get filament inserted through it, and they started shipping a unidirectional Runout Sensor that is much better. The caveat is it gets its wire inserted on the front of the underside instead of at the back (i.e. opposite of the old one). This means the wire for it runs up the back, out the side of the printed mount, and over beside the printed mount, and finally up into the sensor. The trick here is the old sensor can also be mounted this way. So, to spare confusion, my part is designed for the new method, and only for the new method, so you would do the same regardless of whether your sensor is the old kind or the new kind. There is a groove in the printed mount for the wire to travel in and escape from.

INSTALLATION STEPS

• Install three M3 nuts into the three nut capture slots on the printed mount for the Filament Runout Sensor. I then added a tiny dab of CA glue to either side of each nut to keep them from falling out. Be sure such glue does not get into the threads.

• Uninstall your existing Filament Runout Sensor, as well as any existing printed Filament Runout Sensor mount, and any existing Drag Chain Fixing Clip. You may reuse the earlier version of the Drag Chain Fixing Clip. The printed sensor mount is new and the old mount cannot be reused here.

• Install the new printed Filament Runout Sensor mount, using two (2) M3 x 6mm screws, tightened into existing threaded holes on the back of the metal frame, near the top. The umbilical cord to the hotend should be threaded through the opening for it at this time. The wire for the  Filament Runout Sensor should also be in place at this time.

• Connect the wire to the Filament Runout Sensor.

• Install the Filament Runout Sensor onto the new mount, using two (2) M3 x 20 mm screws. These screws go into nuts captured in the part. Make sure the wire is tucked against the side of the printed mount. Care should be taken to make sure the wire not being pinched between the printed mount and the back of the metal frame of the printer.

• Install the Drag Chain to the new mount, using the Drag Chain Fixing Clip, along with two (2) M3 x 25 mm screws. These screws go into threaded holes in the top of the metal frame.

• Connect the long PTFE tube from the drag chain into the Filament Runout Sensor.

• To attach the side mounted spool holder, 

  • First remove the top screw holding the printed guard plate from the DIY enclosure, at the back right side of the printer. This is an M4 screw, but it is too short to be reused. It will be replaced by an M4 x 10 mm.

  • Hold the spool holder in place, and tighten the above mentioned M4 x 10 mm screw.

  • At the back of the spool holder, shine a light into the M3 screw hole to make sure it is aligned with the screw hole on the printed mount, which has a captured M3 nut. The back of the guard plate itself is not attached in any way, and the torque from the screw on the side can cause the back to flex away from the frame slightly. You may need to exert a little force to press the guard plate and the spool holder, to get the screw holes in the spool holder and the printed mount to be aligned.

  • Insert and tighten the M3 x 8mm screw attaching the back of the spool holder to the back of the wingtip on the printed mount.

• Reinstall the top riser set of your DIY enclosure.

• Guide the short PTFE tube (for inlet of filament) in through the hole on the back right side of the riser mount set, and connect it to the Filament Runout Sensor.

• Run the short PTFE tube into the capture slot on the top of the spool holder, to keep it guided toward the front of the printer.

• Done! (I think. If I missed something, or you have questions, please let me know in the comments.)

HEADSUP - NEW MINIMAL ENCLOSURE!

I remixed a new minimal version of the DIY enclosure, that prints in less time, uses less plastic, and in my opinion is better in substantial ways. I now have three of the AD5M printers, and two have the original DIY enclosure, whereas the third has my new remix of the minimal enclosure, and it’s just nice. It makes any maintenance work easier because the top is so much easier to remove (no wiring ribbon cable threaded through a slit to a relocated touchscreen, and no camera cable threaded through a hole to a relocated touchscreen). It’s better because if you have/get the AD5M camera (which is for the Pro version but can be bought and installed on the non-pro version - and its video feed can be displayed remotely in either of the web-based UI choices available if you do the unofficial Klipper mod) it does not need to have a modified mount to get its wire cable to be long enough to reach a higher position of a relocated touchscreen, and better because the touch screen does not have to be moved – it gets to stay in the stock position, which is nicer in all ways. My new remix of the minimal enclosure made several improvements on the great work from the person whose work I based mine on, and it will have the new side mounted spool holder with it. Click here to get it: https://www.printables.com/model/1130485-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-minimal-diy-enclosur 

The following is all COPIED and PASTED from the earlier listing. Helpful info and history.

Note regarding the newly revised runout sensor mount:

• NEW as of September 16, 2024 - The runout sensor is now rotated 180° for better filament insertion — major kudos to @super_liminal_836867 for their excellent work remixing for this new version of the mount! Backstory: The original, official Flashforge files for the DIY enclosure had the runout sensor turned in a direction that apparently contributed to problems loading filament. Flashforge eventually switched the orientation of the runout sensor to aid with this problem. So now this listing has the new orientation as well. This new feature affects only two files (listed below), which get the v2.0 numbering. All other parts are unchanged from v1.0 and v1.1.

  • New: Spool Holder - improved to fix multiple issues v2.0.stl

  • New: Filament Sensor Mount + Drag Chain Mount LOWER v2.0.stl

Note regarding the new side-mounted spool holder:  

• April 6, 2024, PM - added new version of the side-mounted spool holder model with a built-in retainer clip on top to position the PTFE inlet tube toward front of printer for ease of reach when loading filament. Install your filament spools with the feed direction at the top pointed toward front of printer. Images below show the initial installation of the PTFE tube in the retainer clip.

• July 22, 2024, 11:00 PM - added revised v1.1 of the side-mounted spool holder. See below for explanation of minor tweaks intended to better support PTFE tube with slightly larger diameter, and in response to two makers who had issues with the point of attachment to the enclosure's guard piece. (The issues might perhaps be related to over extrusion, which would simultaneously reduce the size of the indentation when they printed their guard piece, and yet also increase the size of the oblong bump on the side-mounted spool holder. Thus a double whammy from over extrusion can make parts not fit that were explicitly designed for each other.)    

So many improvements made here… Besides getting a nice option for a side-mounted spool holder, as opposed to the rear mounted one, here's a list of changes / improvements to the original, and all things related to it:

Improvements made to original spool holder model that also provides mount for filament runout detection sensor: 

1. Adjusted orientation angle of the filament runout sensor to make loading filament easier. The original design required a bend to the PTFE inlet tube that caused a kink/crook at the point where where the tube gets attached to the sensor. While the sensor was mounted "normal" to the hole for the PTFE inlet tube, it's offset from that hole to the right. This fix addresses that. I'm getting easier filament loading than before. Also, cutting the tip of the new filament at a sharp angle helps with insertion. Before the kink was fixed, even the sharp angle cut did not help. Now with the sharp angle cut, I get easy insertions.

2. Made the PTFE tube insert holes (for the spool to glide on PTFE tubes) to be round holes at correct size, instead of pentagonal holes that were too small for normal PTFE tubes. It was practically impossible to force the PTFE tubes in, without either using a heat gun to distort the printed part, which made it look bad, or by using a drill to widen the holes, which destroyed the retainer lips on the top edges of the slots. Presumably the holes were designed as pentagonal to reduce need of supports, but the long "knife edge" overhang requires supports any way, so why not make the holes properly sized?

3. Widened the relief pocket and access hole for the wiring that connects to the filament runout sensor. I also bevelled several faces related to this relief pocket to reduce need of printed supports.

4. Made some existing filets to be broader to get the whole spool holder part to fit easier on the AD5M print bed. This also slightly shortened the PTFE tube slots (for the spool to slide on) to exactly 82 mm. A key benefit of this design aspect was this goal it accomplished: Since the model print needs supports, and tree supports would be desirable and better for it, yet the larger original model was so near to the edges of the print bed that OrcaSlicer insisted on creating tree support bases located outside the print bed, and the job would not print (AD5M with Klipper mod would simply say "move out of range" and stop), by rotating my slightly smaller remix clockwise a bit, OrcaSlicer's tree supports now fit on the print bed easily, including with a skirt set to print.

5. Widened the gap through which the hotend control cable must pass, as it was tighter than necessary.

6. Created a second remix in which the sensor mount/cable chain mount are separate from the spool holder, and the separated spool holder is made to be a “SIDE MOUNT” instead of a “REAR MOUNT.” This makes it easier to reach and load filament even if your printer is positioned such that you cannot rotate it (or you simply don't want to rotate it).

7. The official Flashforge files for the DIY enclosure had the runout sensor turned in a direction that apparently contributed to problems loading filament. Flashforge eventually switched the orientation of the runout sensor to aid with this problem. So… NEW as of September 16, 2024 - This listing's runout sensor is now rotated 180° for better filament insertion — major kudos to @super_liminal_836867 for their excellent work remixing for this new version of the mount! INSTALLATION TIP: the new mount has the wire cable for the runout sensor taking a different path, out the side, and around the side, to the front. This new feature affects only two files (listed below), which get the v2.0 numbering. All other parts are unchanged from v1.0 and v1.1.

   • New: Spool Holder - improved to fix multiple issues v2.0.stl

   • New: Filament Sensor Mount + Drag Chain Mount LOWER v2.0.stl

Printing tips:

• Print as oriented.

• Tree supports are good for either of the spool holders.

• Selective support blocking can save some print time on the spool holders. 

• I also like to do tree supports on the "Drag Chain Mount UPPER" for the transition from big hole to little hole.

• The new “Filament Sensor Mount + Drag Chain Mount LOWER” prints without need of supports.

Installation tips:

• When installing the new side-mounted spool holder, with the DIY printed enclosure: 

  • Remove the screw from the printed guard (rear, right). 

  • Position the new side-mounted spool holder on the upper side of the guard.

  • Replace the screw with a longer M4 screw (probably M4 x 10mm or M4 x 12 mm).

  • IMPORTANT: the screw needs to be really tight.

  • Insert the PTFE inlet tube through the built-in retainer clip on top to position the tube toward front of printer, for ease of reach when loading filament.

  • Install your filament spools with the feed direction (at the top) pointed toward front of printer. 

NEW change log for v2.1

• February 2, 2025 - revised the sensor mount part, widened it by 2 mm. Not sure how I made such a mistake, but it's corrected now. That part's version number went to 2.1.1, and I also notched up the listing's version number to 2.1.1. If you downloaded this prior to February 2, 2025 and had issues with things being too tight to fit right, the only part you need to reprint is the sensor mount part. So sorry for the issue.

• December 30, 2024 - initial upload of v2.1

OLD Change log for earlier versions

• September 16, 2024 - The runout sensor is now rotated 180° for better filament insertion — major kudos to @super_liminal_836867 for their excellent work remixing for this new version of the mount! Backstory: The original, official Flashforge files for the DIY enclosure had the runout sensor turned in a direction that apparently contributed to problems loading filament. Flashforge eventually switched the orientation of the runout sensor to aid with this problem. So now this listing has the new orientation as well. This new feature affects only two files (listed below), which get the v2.0 numbering. All other parts are unchanged from v1.0 and v1.1.

  • New: Spool Holder - improved to fix multiple issues v2.0.stl

  • New: Filament Sensor Mount + Drag Chain Mount LOWER v2.0.stl

• April 6, 2024, AM - initial upload of the remix work.

• April 6, 2024, PM - added new version of the side-mounted spool holder model with a built-in retainer clip on top to position the PTFE inlet tube toward front of printer for ease of reach when loading filament. Install your filament spools with the feed direction at the top pointed toward front of printer. Images below show the initial installation of the PTFE tube in the retainer clip.

• July 22, 2024, 11:00 PM - added revised v1.1 of the side-mounted spool holder. Here are explanations of minor tweaks:

  • On the side-mounted spool holder, the retainer clip hole is slightly larger, to better support PTFE tubing that has a slightly larger diameter. Reason: Not all PTFE tube is exactly the same diameter.

  • On the side-mounted spool holder, there is an oblong bump around the mount screw hole. That oblong bump had its height reduced by 0.2mm, and the size of the base of the bump was reduced by 2%. Reason: Two makers reported issues with the point of attachment to the enclosure's guard piece. The issues might be related to over extrusion, which would simultaneously reduce the size of the indentation (from when they printed their guard piece), and yet also increase the size of the oblong bump on the side-mounted spool holder. Thus, there can be a double whammy from over extrusion that can make parts not fit that were explicitly designed for each other.   

Other cool options for the AD5M

You may also like my other AD5M related design work:

• https://www.printables.com/model/785667-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-simpler-easier-faste

• https://www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount 

• https://www.printables.com/model/814546-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-nozzle-storage-box-t 

• https://www.printables.com/model/827706-flashforge-adventurer-5-ad5m-led-mod-accessory-buc

• https://www.printables.com/model/828632-flashforge-adventurer-5-ad5m-led-light-bars-mod-ac

• https://www.printables.com/model/834011-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-side-cutter-mount-v1 

• https://www.printables.com/model/834097-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-improved-spool-holde 

• https://www.printables.com/model/886714-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-filament-cutter-comp 

• https://www.printables.com/model/1119699-flashforge-ad5m-enclosure-hinge-remixed-to-be-easi 

• https://www.printables.com/model/1119872-flashforge-ad5m-door-handle-remixed-to-print-witho 

• https://www.printables.com/model/1129412-safety-cover-for-side-cutter-tips

• https://www.printables.com/model/1130485-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-minimal-diy-enclosur 

Use Klipper stuff on AD5M stock hardware…

• …such as Mainsail, Fluidd, and Klipperscreen, etc, with the stock Klipper install on the AD5M's main board. 

• Get it here: https://github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod

Check out other cool AD5M related options here:

• https://github.com/g992/flashforge-ad5m-5mpro-research 

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio  

• Improves on my popular earlier remix, now mounting the side-mounted spool holder with two screws instead of one + more – see description.
• This new spool holder can take spools that are up to 10mm wider, to support Amazon Basics brand of spools, as per dialog with a maker using that brand.
• Now has 4 options for cosmetic treatment of the spool holder. This is one of the four. See description for links to the others.