This part has wire paths protruding from both ends to enable flexible wiring options. A slot is built in below where the status LED strip sticks to allow for the ‘Digital Out’ signal from the last neopixel to be exposed to continue the control chain elsewhere in the board. That slot is 1mm x 1mm and fits the 30ga hookup wire well with a press fit.
Assemble the ‘nuts’ together with the main body with superglue or other appropriate adhesive. May not be necessary, but the main body has very little grip on the screw to keep things low profile. I use a screw to hold the nut to the body and apply glue externally. Then assemble your board to confirm fit.
BOM (outside controller box):
WS2811/WS2812 Neopixel strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CNXKSWD7 - length of 10x leds needed
Hookup wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3V1TDZ4 - Used for internal wiring, adding wires to the footpad connector.
Glue heat shrink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089D6RDF7 - Wiring cleanliness, I shrink solder joints and the wire path from the part into the controller plug cover.
I repurposed the connectors that came with the ws2812 strip to enable a quick disconnect in the controller plug area. The 3 wires for neopixel are plumbed through the xr controller case via the unused 3 pins on the footpad connector.
BOM (inside controller box):
JST GH connectors (need a male 3 pin): https://www.amazon.com/connectors-1-25MM-Female-Connector-Cables/dp/B07TB7H8FB
But you're a maker, so I'd get this instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D69GZCP4
I'm switching to these to enable the 4th wire (digital out from that last ws2812) to be pluggable for other lighting projects on the board:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0KKJU
The next step I'm planning is to flood the status bar slot with silicone for waterpoofing and durability.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BKEBO0
Tips:
Cut a ziptie to a length of 5 inches or so. Cut a V into the end like: $||||||||||||||||||<. Use this tool to assist in pushing wires through by folding the wire over the V. Fish from the status LED. Zip tie also clears any 3d print blemishes well. Fish wires around the 90 by scooping the resulting wire loop after ziptie retraction with a thin tool (tiny hex wrench).
Contact for any alternative licenses. My #1 goal is progressing our open community.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.