8" Detroit Lions Logo Reverse Lightbox

After Having Inconsistent Results with my Standard Forward-faced Lightbox Design, I Decided to Try a Reverse Display Option.

After a Few Trial-and-Error Attempts and Tweaks, This Design Has Proven to Work GREAT!

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PRINTING DIRECTIONS:

“1 Structure” (Black): Printed at Once. Standard 0.2mm Bambu Studio Profile.

“2 Top Plate & Diffuser” (Black & Clear): Printed at Once. Print Face Down on Build Plate for Bedplate Texture to Give Cleaner Presentation. I Separated Components on This and Applied Clear PLA to the Tallest Section “Diffuser”. This Will be What the LED Light Strip Shines Through. If You do not Have an AMS, You Can Look at What Layer the Diffuser is the Only Height Being Printed, and do a Layer Pause Print and Swap to Clear Filament.

“3 Lions Logo” (Multicolor): I Printed Each Color (Grey Base, White Middle, Blue Top) All Individually, Face Down for Bedplate Texture on Forward Facing Surfaces.

“4 Cable Hider” (Black): Printed with Structure and/or Vertical Stand. I Add a 5mm Brim and Print This Vertical with no Issues. This Will Get Glued in Place at the Bottom Foot Area of the Structure and Cover the LED Light Strip Section from Back of Structure to Face.

“5 Vertical Stand” (Black): Printed with Structure and/or Cable Hider. Can be Printed in Any Orientation, However, I Print with Forward Facing Surface on Build Plate to Match Bedplate Texture of Top Plate & Diffuser.

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ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS:

1. Glue (3) Layers of Lions Logo Together (Does Not Apply If Printed All at Once)
2. Feed LED Light Strip Through Structure Feed Hole. The Light Strip Should be Pushed Through From the Backside of Structure, with the Blue Adhesive Cover Facing UP. Once You Have the Light Strip Almost to the Forward Edge of the Structure, You Can Fold the Light Strip to Over Itself to Create a 90 Degree Turn, with the Lights Now Facing UP and in the Correct Orientation. I Typically Superglue the Light Strip Transition Section Down to the Structure for Stability. Now You Can Start Removing the Adhesive Protector, and Run the Light Strip Around the Interior Top Edge of the Structure. Try to Keep the lights as Formed to the Shape of the Walls as Possible to Ensure the Top Plate Snaps on Correctly. Once You Have Stuck the Lights All the Way Around and Reached the Original Starting Point, You Can Cut the Excess Light Material Off. These Lights do NOT Need to be Cut Only on the Copper Connectors Like Some Other Lights. I Also Put a Small Drop of Superglue on the End of the Strip Just for Stability.
3. Glue the “Cable Hider” In Place. I Typically Run a Small Bead of Superglue on Top of the Light Strip Section That's Upside Down and Stick This Cable Hider Right to the Lights, Pressing Down for 10-15sec, or Until the Glue Has Dried.
4. Place Top Layer & Diffuser in Place and Carefully Press Down Around the Perimeter, to Ensure Correct Fitment. A Few Small Drops of Superglue Can be Applied, But This is Not Necessary Unless Wanted.
5. Place on Vertical Stand, Plug In, and Enjoy!

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NOTE: I Designed This and a Few Other Sports Teams Logos for my Nephews, to Use as Nightlights in Their Bedrooms. I Printed Any White Elements with Glow in the Dark Filament to Act as a Soft Glow, Once The Light Strip is Turned Off.

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LIGHTS USED (3.28ft):

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