Gagguino Printed Parts (Gen 3) - ASA/ABS Compatible
Description
PDFThis project is aimed around increasing the suitability of Loogle's amazing designs for the Gagguino project for printing ASA/ASA (or virtually any filament type that has better heat resistance than PLA).
These aren't official designs, visit Loogle's page for a ‘mainstream’ install.
The ethos here was to remove any of the flexible features that could cause issues when printing with ABS or ASA. The original designs use a lot of printed clips/features to hold parts together, or to the machine (purposefully to reduce build complexity and uniformity) - instead I've utilised M3 heat set inserts and M3 hardware to achieve the same job, at the cost of a slightly more complex assembly and the need for additional hardware. I've remixed the designs as much as possible, as to retain the original look of the parts.
If you're printing in PETG or looking for as simple of an install experience as possible - then these designs aren't for you, instead use Loogle's originals. But if you're looking for slightly more ridged designs or want to use a filament other than PETG - I hope these files are useful to you.
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Changes to original parts:
Gen 3 Screen Housing:
- Removal of printed clips holding the two halves together - replaced with M3 screws.
- Removal of the flexible clip that holds the Mount_AdjustablePlate - replaced with M3 screws.
Rear Mount:
- Thickened the Mount_AdjustablePlate wings to 3.2mm thickness for increased strength.
- Removal of the flexible arms that clip into the rear vents of the machine.
- Moved the placement of the screen back slightly to be placed in the same position as the original screen housing (to support the remixed "Mount_Adjustable_Plate[ABS].stl").
- Added screw holes to the "Mount_Rear[ABS].stl" for fixing to the machine (screws into "Interior_Plate[ABS].stl").
Front Mount:
- Split the design into two pieces for printability without supports in order to add two countersunk screw holes that can be attached to my remixed Gen 3 Screen Housing.
- Largely kept the rest of the geometry the same to avoid clashing with the various GC badge variants.
- Screen sticks SLIGHTLY further out by a couple mm to accommodate the screw head diameter, but in practise I think this is hard to notice.
PCB v3.1/v4 Housing:
UPDATED 06/01/2025: Replaced v3 design with v3.1/v4 design (latest design from Loogle has less risk with shorting the board as it's always protected).
- Replaced print-in-place hinge with a 1.5mm steel rod.
- Clip closure features replaced with 3mm magnets and a single M3 countersunk screw.
- Removed flex features that press against the side of the PCB (fit was precise/secure enough without this).
TOFNLED Housing:
- Completely different design.
- Uses two halves and an m3 screw to avoid the flexible feature that locates the PCB.
Drip Tray Adapters (GCP) for Hardware Scales:
- Increased the thickness of the spring feature for increased rigidity.
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BOM:
Gen 3 Screen Housing:
- 6 x M3x5x4mm heat-set inserts
- 4 x M3x8mm socket head cap screws
Rear Mount:
- 2 x M3x6mm countersunk screws
- 4 x M3x5x4mm heat-set inserts
- 4 x M3x8mm socket head cap screws
- 2 x M3x35mm socket head cap screws (32mm recommended but harder to source)
- 4 x M3 washers (OD ≤7 mm) [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
- 4 x M3 split lock washers [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
- 2 x M3 nylock nuts [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
Front Mount:
- 2 x M3x5x4mm heat-set inserts
- 4 x M3x6mm countersunk screws
- 6 x 20x10x3mm magnets [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
PCB v3.1/v4 Housing:
- 1 x M3x5x4mm heat-set insert
- 1 x M3x4mm countersunk screw
- 1 x 1.5mm x 80mm steel rod (or longer cut down to 80mm)
- 4 x 3x2mm magnets
- 3 x 5x2mm magnets [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
TOFNLED Housing:
- 1 x M3x8 countersunk screw
- 2 x 5x2mm magnets [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
Drip Tray Adapters (GCP) for Hardware Scales:
- 8 x 5x2mm magnets [SAME AS ORIGINAL]
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Assembly instructions:
NOTE: All .stl files have been orientated for best printability.
FILAMENT CHOICE: These files have been designed and tested for ABS/ASA, but their is nothing from stopping you from printing in other filaments. As with the original designs, PLA should be avoided for parts that may experience heat as they will deform.
Gen 3 Screen Housing:
Recommended print settings: No supports, 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.4 mm line width, 0.2 mm layer height, 3 wall lines, 25% cubic infill. Can print “Mount_Adjustable_Plate[ABS].stl” with 8 wall lines for increased strength.
Step 1:
Insert 4 heatset inserts into "Screen_Housing_Front[ABS].stl" as pictured (if you haven't used heatset inserts before refer to this video for installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCNsm3ldLjg, you will need a soldering iron that has temperature control).
Step 2:
Insert 2 heatset inserts into “Screen_Housing_Back[ABS].stl” as pictured, making sure the heatsets are as flush to the surface of the part as possible.
Step 3:
Plug the connectors into the rear of the screen, and feed the connectors/wires through the hole in “Screen_Housing_Back[ABS].stl”. Place the screen into “Screen_Housing_Back[ABS].stl”. Make sure the wires route nicely and the screen is sitting flush with the housing.
Step 4:
Press “Screen_Housing_Front[ABS].stl” over the front of the screen and insert 4 m3x8mm through the rear of the housing. Screw these tight, but DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN, just snug them up as to not damage the screen. The screws will pass through the holes in the screen's PCB and into the front - holding the housing closed.
Rear Mount:
Recommended print settings: No supports, 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.4 mm line width, 0.2 mm layer height, 3 wall lines, 25% cubic infill.
Step 1:
Insert 2 heatset inserts into “Interior_Plate[ABS].stl” as pictured (again making sure they're flush or slightly below the surface of the part).
Step 2:
Insert a heatset insert into both “Exterior_Plate_R[ABS].stl” and “Exterior_Plate_L[ABS].stl” as pictured (again making sure they're flush or slightly below the surface of the part).
Step 3:
Press “Interior_Plate[ABS].stl” into the vents on the inside of the machine, this should be centred, it should be a very slight press fit.
Step 4:
Using 2 M3x8mm socket head cap screws, secure both “Exterior_Plate_R[ABS].stl” and “Exterior_Plate_L[ABS].stl” on the outside of the machine, securing “Interior_Plate[ABS].stl” in place by clamping to the metal chassis. Leave the screws slightly loose as there is some designed tolerance for adjustment here.
Step 5:
Feed the screen wires through “Mount_Rear[ABS].stl” and attach the screen following the original instructions. Use two M3x35mm (or M3x32mm ideally if you can source) instead of the original 30mm screws to attach the screen to the arm (due to the increased thickness of the “Mount_Adjustable_Plate[ABS].stl”).
Step 6:
Feed the screen wires through the hole in the “Interior_Plate[ABS].stl”. Slide in the “Mount_Rear[ABS].stl” in-between the two side plates and insert two M3x8mm screws on the rear of the mount as pictured:
Once the screen is attached and your happy with placement, tighten these screws to lock the mount into position.
NOTE: to install the GC's funnel/warming plate back onto the machine, you'll have to remove the two bolts from the rear, install the warming plate/funnel and then reattach.
Step 7:
Hold “Mount_Adjustable_Plate[ABS].stl” onto the rear of the screen housing and insert 2 M3x6mm countersunk screws and tighten into place.
Step 8:
Feed the screen wires through “Mount_Rear[ABS].stl” and “Interior_Plate[ABS].stl”, going into the GC chassis and eventually into the PCB.
Step 9:
Load the 2 M3x32mm (or 35mm) screws with a spring washer then a flat washer and slide it through “Mount_Adjustable_Plate[ABS].stl” into “Mount_Rear[ABS].stl” and out the other side - on the other side of each screw place a flat washer first, then a spring washer and finally a M3 nylock nut. Adjust the angle of the screen and then tighten each nut snug (but not overly tight) to secure the screen in position.
Front Mount:
Step 1:
Insert two m3 heatset inserts into “Mount_Fixed_Plate[ABS].stl” as pictured, making sure they are sitting as flush as possible.
Step 2:
Glue 2 20x10x3mm magnets (stacked) into each of the three pockets in “Mount_Front[ABS].stl” as pictured, using either CA glue or epoxy.
Step 3:
Slide “Mount_Fixed_Plate[ABS].stl” into “Mount_Front[ABS].stl” and secure using 2 M3x6mm countersunk screws from each side.
Step 4:
Route the screen wires behind “Mount_Fixed_Plate[ABS].stl” and out towards the bottom, follow original instructions for further guidance on screen wire routing.
Step 5:
Use 2 further M3x6mm countersunk to secure the mount to the screen assembly as pictured. The screen assembly can then be attached to the machine.
PCB v3.1/v4 Housing:
Recommended print settings: No supports, 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.4 mm line width, 0.2 mm layer height, 3 wall lines, 25% cubic infill.
Step 1:
Insert a heatset insert into “PCB_Housing_Base[ABS].stl” as pictured (again making sure it is flush or slightly below the surface of the part).
Step 2:
Press fit three 5x2mm magnets into the holes in the bottom of "PCB_Housing_Base[ABS].stl", again add a drop of CA glue before inserting the magnets.
Step 3:
Insert two 3x2mm magnets into both “PCB_Hinge_Cover[ABS].stl” and “PCB_Housing_Base[ABS].stl”, making sure the polarity is such that the magnets in the cover are attracted to the base when closed. Add a small drop of CA glue to each magnet before inserting, they are quite a tight press fit - a small hex driver can be a useful tool to push the magnets into place.
Step 4:
Assemble “PCB_Hinge_Cover[ABS].stl” and “PCB_Housing_Base[ABS].stl” into the closed position and insert the 1.5mm x 80mm rod and press through so that the rod is flush with the top of the housing. Be careful to not bend the rod or damage the 3d prints when inserting.
It is designed to be a tight fit, so use some pliers if needed to feed the rod into the parts (will take some force) - it can also be helpful to clear the holes before hand by pushing the rod into both printed parts individually, assembling and then pushing through both.
If you can't source 80mm length of 1.5mm stainless steel rod, you should be quite easily able to cut down to length with a hacksaw or bolt cutters, just make sure to deburr the ends of the rod with a file or sandpaper.
Step 5:
Slide the PCB into the housing from the top. Once all wires are connected to the PCB close the cover (you'll feel the magnets engage, make sure no wires are interfering with the magnets). Once you've completed assembly, use the M3x4mm countersunk screw from the top to secure the housing closed.
TOFNLED Housing:
Step 1:
Press fit 2 5x2mm magnets into “Bottom_Case[ABS].stl”.
Step 2:
Insert the PCB (making sure the hole in the pcb lines up with that of the case). Then add the “Top_Lid[ABS].stl”, this lid is a very slight press fit.
Step 3:
Insert a M3x8mm countersunk head screw into the hole and use it to thread it's own threads. Do not over tighten this screw, as the thread in the plastic could strip if you're overzealous, just make sure the screw head is flush with the part so that the magnets are effective.
Drip Tray Adapters (GCP) for Hardware Scales:
Only change is the thickness of the spring so no difference to assembly. Follow original instructions here.
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Out of respect for Loogle and the integrity of his original designs, I've decided not to share .step files as they aren't available for most of his original parts. I've included the .step file for ‘Mount_Adjustable_Plate[ABS]’ (as Loogle did) so that if you wish to remix you're own mount that's compatible with this remixed screen housing you can do.
Happy modding!
Tags
Model origin
The author remixed this model.
Differences of the remix compared to the original
Suitability for printing with ASA/ABS filament.
