2022+ BRZ/GR86 Intake Inlet Tube

This is version one of an air intake inlet tube for a 2022+ Subaru BRZ or Toyota GR86. This replaces the stock, stiff rubber unit. This new piece used a drawn out curve to try and improve airflow. Unfortunately, after CFD analysis of both a "stock like" inlet and the new piece, the new piece flows 1-2% worse than the stock geometry. This doesn't take into account the turbulence caused by the ribbing which will likely reduce the difference so it is negligible(it probably is anyways). Version two will utilize a simpler geometry like the stock piece but without the ribbing for hopefully better flow. Version one also contains an inlet on the bottom to fit the stock resonator where version two will have printed attachments for resonators and will allow you to make different sized resonators to tune the specific frequencies. In order for the resonator to fit, the inlet needs to have an ID of 25mm or SLIGHTLY less. The resonator will use a friction fit but can be secured using glue or a simple screw/bolt through the neck of the resonator. It may still be a tight fit in which case I would recommend cutting a vertical slit on both sides of the resonator neck to allow it to compress slightly to fit into the Inlet. To fit the Inlet you will need two 3.125" silicone couplers, I got mine from Vibrant because they were the only ones I could find in that size. The one attached to the stock airbox will most likely need to be shortened to fit. In order to fit the PCV hose you will need to remove the stock plastic barb so the hose can slip over the new piece.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Bambulabs

Printer: 

Bambu X1C

**Rafts:**

Yes

Supports: 

Yes

**Resolution:**

0.4mm Nozzle 0.2mm Layer Height

Infill: 

100%

**Filament:** BambuLabs PAHT-CF Black 
 

Notes: 

I would recommend a high temp PA 12 or PA6 preferably with some sort of fiber fill. I went with BambuLabs PAHT-CF due to its relatively high HDT, high strength, toughness, and easy to use profile on my printer. Keep in mind if you do not have a truly high temp machine you may need to anneal the part to reach the advertised HDT and strength numbers. A regular consumer machine does not always get hot enough in the chamber(80C+) to remove the need for annealing if the part will be subjected to extreme temperatures near or at its rated limits. If you are not sure if your print will be able to handle it, either perform tests, ask the filament manufacturer, or reach out to an expert on high temp materials like Vision Miner.
The part will need to be sanded if done in PAHT-CF or something similar. Surface finish is rough straight off the printer and the "over extrusion" creates thicker walls than designed, this results in an effective ID of 73.2mm(in my case) instead of the 74mm ID as designed. Another way to work around this is to scale the model by an extra ~0.5-1.0% to make the ID accurate. Supports inside the PCV barbed fitting will probably need to be drilled out by hand with a few drill bits of different sizes. I'd recommend working your way up using the bits by hand or, if they have hex bit ends, put it in a screw driver.

How I Designed This ===================

Pressure map of the new piece

Pressure map of the stock like piece

Current design of Version 2

Category: Automotive