Solderless Connectors

No claims of merchantability, fitness, or suitability for a particular purpose.

I will not comply

…with building codes, standards, or safety regulations. Just something I want to experiment with as an alternative to twisting wires on low-power field test equipment, bench, RV, drone, etc. 

I am the original designer of these sub-standard yet awesome-looking low-power quick connectors. I designed them for my bench power supply, and for plugging in LED lights, webcams, and battery-operated tools on a sailboat.

More model files in .zip (other files), including tri and quad varieties on up to 24 AWG. I made the 16 AWG and 18 AWG interchangeable. Other connectors are smaller. You can make other sizes compatible by changing hole diameters.

Rants and raves. I was fed up with other types of connectors that contain dissimilar metals. They are getting expensive. They either rapidly rust or, even gold plated ones absorb moisture, wear out, de-laminate, or otherwise fail in a season or two in this harsh, salt-sea environment. Rubber seals become hard and cracked. Banana and cigarette lighter plugs need soldering or crimping tools to install. Not very convenient when you're on deck, working with cold hands. Receptacles break, and we're twisting wires together at the worst time. Replacements need screw holes in a different place, etc.

I needed to invent something that was

• small and easy to print without supports,
• either panel-mount or freehand usable*,
• mountable without exact screw holes – just a washer behind the panel,
• able to be glued to a circuit board,
• free of metal parts – use the wires themselves,
• somewhat idiot-proof – can only be plugged in one way,
• ready to join and disconnect as needed (spare bilge pump here or there),
• wired up or repaired in seconds with just a knife (or sharp teeth),
• long-lasting or at least somewhat weatherproof (using “electronics grease”),
• cheap enough to keep some in a drawer.

* No warranties! You are the responsible captain. 0-24v stranded wire only. Not suitable for solid-core or AC house current. Not rated. But 16 awg might pass up to 10A. Depends on the wire. As with any connector, if the connector is getting hot, don't use it. To prevent fire, injury, or really-dead batteries, anything connected to power is required to have a fuse in line with the connection.

Printing instructions. Filament must be dry! PETG or nylon to withstand heat. But PLA should work for low-power, low-temperature applications. Do not use carbon fiber or other conductive filament! (heh) Functional prints require precise tuning of flow, tolerances, and retraction settings. These parts are intended to fit together snugly. And stay together during normal use. The tighter you push them together, the better they hold. But they should also pull apart without damaging the wire. Think of them as an alternative to hand splicing. Just one step up from twist-'n-tape.

Deburr the parts. It may be necessary to clear the holes with a small drill and shave off some bumps from printing.

Usage. Pin 1: big is black (or negative). Pin 2: puny is plus (or red). Strip (wires) to the appropriate length, twist, and insert with a wrist-turning motion so the layer lines can grip the wire insulation. Bend (the wire) over to secure. A dab of hot glue or solder might help hold wires in if the cord is to take a lot of abuse, but is not necessary for the bench. Apply your favorite electronics grease or corrosion inhibitors.

Shorting on the female side is unlikely because jack terminals are separated by a divider. But visually inspect before plugging in, just to be sure. The male plug side is exposed and can easily short. So don't use the male side for the supply. 

Just 16awg? Where are the rest? In the zip file!