Prusa Tools and Accessories Box for Mk4

This case/box store nozzles and complete hotends plus some of the most used tools, with some "special print" techniques
30h 52m
4× print file
0.20 mm
0.40 mm
745.00 g
156
33
0
9899
updated January 25, 2025

Description

PDF

Don't start to print this if you don't have the needed magnets… more info bellow

Don't start to print this if you don't have the needed magnets… more info bellow

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A Refreshed Version of the Bambu Lab - Tools and Accessories Box

After the tremendous success of the original Bambu Lab - Tools and Accessories Box, which garnered thousands of downloads and makes, I decided it was time to refresh and enhance this project. This updated version introduces significant improvements across almost every aspect while maintaining the core functionality that made the original so popular.

And here is the new version for comparation and without any accessories or tools.

Important considerations before start

First of all, I would like to congratulate Prusa for adding the multiple build plates feature. It was truly something that was missing.
At the time of the project launch, this feature is still in beta, but it works very well, so feel free to use it. It is a mandatory requirement to open this document in Prusa Slicer. However, if you are not willing to install this version, I am also providing the pre-sliced versions.

Another characteristic of this project is that it is only available for printers with the MMU, due to the use of multiple colors, but especially because I am using a “special” technique that allows for very easy support removal with a near-perfect finish in the areas where supports are applied. More information on this will be provided later

 

Storage Capacity

This version of the case allows you to store:

First Half of the Case

  • 1x Kit of Hexagonal Keys, along with a nozzle unclogging needle in the same compartment.
  • 1x Pliers (I used this one, it seems commonly available)
  • Various pockets with Lid, and pockets for bolts and other small items 

Second Half of the Case

  • 4x Nozzles
  • 3x Silicone Socks
  • 2x Complete Nextruder hotend, including fan, cables, and silicone sock.
  • 1x Nozzle remover with torque limitation
  • 1x Small pocket with lid for small items related to the hotend

Key Improvements

New Design, more actual

The new version features a more modern aesthetic, though I understand design preferences can vary. The updated look aims to balance form and function while staying true to the original concept.

Enhanced Dimensional and Geometric Precision

The modules now benefit from the advanced dimensional and geometric precision I developed in my most recent project:

UMSS - Universal Modular Storage System

This project builds on its predecessor:

Magnetic Closure System

The closing mechanism has been upgraded to a magnetic system, inspired by my previous projects. This makes the case more user-friendly and provides a reliable, sleek solution compared to the earlier version.

Monobloc Structure

Unlike the original Tools and Accessories Box, this new case features an almost monobloc structure. This design choice addresses structural issues from the earlier version, improving durability and simplifying assembly.

Design Challenges: The Handle

One of the most complex aspects of this update was the handle. My goal was to integrate it seamlessly into the body of the case.

For this version, I redesigned the handle, choosing to keep it attached to the main body rather than making it a detachable piece, as I did in the MMSS case (link here). While a detachable handle might have simplified some aspects, it would have disrupted the clean, cohesive design I envisioned.

The Trade-Off

The main challenge with the handle was the support material required during printing. Adjusting the model’s orientation to reduce support material was partially feasible but would have compromised the areas for the magnets. This trade-off was a deliberate decision to balance design, functionality, and printability.

Flexibility Through Modularity

For users seeking more flexibility—whether they find the number of hotend pockets excessive or insufficient—the UMSS and MMSS projects offer an ideal solution. Both systems are fully modular, allowing for personalized configurations to suit a variety of needs.

 

Printing

A configured file is available for download. This file has multiple buildplates (Prusa Slicer 2.9.0)

One possible way to solve the issue of marks left by the supports required to print the suitcase handle is to use materials in the interface zone that are incompatible, such as PETG for PLA and vice versa. In this case, a PETG model with a PLA interface layer works well, as long as matte PLA is not used—in that case, the results are disastrous. That said, there are many PLA and PETG variations, and the differences between them can be significant. Test with a small part or use the "cut" tool to section the piece and print a portion of the handle. Observe the results—if they turn out well, you can try printing the entire piece.

Here are some guidelines, and no more than that, starting with "Print Settings":

In addition to the usual settings, such as enabling supports, you can adjust the following:

  • Top Contact Z Distance: Set to 0.1 mm or even 0 mm.
  • Interface Pattern: Rectilinear (this seems to create a more uniform base).
  • Interface Spacing: 0 mm.

Then, under Speed:

  • Support Material: 80 mm/s.

Under Multiple Extrude:

  • Support Material/Raft Interface Extruder: Select the number on the MMU where the PLA is loaded (if using PETG for the rest of the part).

Important Notes

However, there is one thing you absolutely should not do:
Do not use matte PLA for any of the situations mentioned above. This material has a strong tendency to adhere to itself, making the removal of supports extremely difficult—if not impossible in most cases.

Interface layer and support structure on the left

Purging volumes
Just to make sure, when switching between PLA and PETG (and vice versa), ensure you purge at least double the recommended material to avoid contamination. Otherwise, you may end up with mixed material inside your part, and under stronger stress, it will break in the handle area.

In this case, the yellow is the diferente material that I'm using on the interface layer.

Lids and Labels

If, by the time you produce this part, it is possible to use the MMU with nozzles other than the 0.4mm one, simply ignore the following information.

For the lids and labels, it is ideal to use a 0.25mm nozzle.
The hinged lids are print-in-place.

Since the MMU currently does not support the use of the 0.25mm nozzle, the process is straightforward: disconnect the PTFE tube that runs from the MMU to the hotend. It should be disconnected at the MMU output. The material will then feed directly through this tube, just as it did before the MMU was installed. Swap the nozzle, and you are ready to print. Change the material manually when prompted – it will only need to be done twice.

 

Material List
 

For the Labels:
  • 24x - 6x3mm round magnets
For the Case Lids
  • 8x - 8x4mm round magnets, or:
    • 16x - 8x2 stacked 2 by 2 
For the internal Lids and doors
  • 12x - 6x3 round magnets
For the Keys
  • 12x - 6x3 round magnets

 

To sum it up:

  • 48x - 6x3mm round magnets
  • 8x - 8x4mm round magnets, or:
    • 16x - 8x2 stacked 2 by 2.
for the hinges:
  • 2x M3 Carbon Steel Hex Nut
  • 2x M3x20 BHCS Machine Screw
  •  

Magnet Insertion Instructions

The print will pause at specific points to allow for magnet insertion. Ensure that the magnets are inserted with the correct orientation on the lids (both the small internal lids and the main lids of the case). The magnets should be oriented so that they attract each other.
Regarding the pause sequence, which can be very easily seen on bambu studio when the model is sliced. That bar on the right will show some pauses, move the slider up and down to see where the pause is located; the next layer after the pause should close the pocket for that magnet. Here is the example for the first half pauses. In the slicer you can see that most of the are 2 or 3 layers apart from each other, so, when it happens be prepared to put some magnets and glue…

This time, to avoid any risks, I chose to make the holes larger, so the magnets should be glued using quick adhesive. The reason is simple: I don't want your printer to suffer an impact with one of these magnets. Although the nozzle is not ferromagnetic, the guide bearings are, and since these magnets are relatively strong, they can become dislodged and cause an impact.

Depending on the adhesive, don't rush—allow it to dry and bond properly. In the case of quick adhesive, wait at least 5 minutes, even though it claims to bond in seconds—that's more applicable to your fingertips. ;)

The labels serve two proposes; identify the nozzle size and to secure the parts in its place when the case lids are closed, they have magnets that are exposed on the back side, be sure that they are glued in place.
 

Note that magnets, even with identical dimensions, can exhibit significant variations in attraction force due to differences in material composition, manufacturing processes, and magnetization. I cannot recommend specific magnets, but it is advisable to avoid the really cheap ones, as they tend to have lower magnetic flux density and reduced long-term stability.

Insert the nuts on the hinge

For those not used to assembling mechanical and 3D-printed parts, there are a few tricks you might not know...
If you have a longer screw, it's easier:

  1. Align the covers.
  2. Insert the screw first.
  3. Then, place the nut at the tip of the screw and start threading it, ensuring the nut aligns with the hexagonal socket. Done

If you don’t have a screw with a longer shaft, you can do the following:

  1. Thread the screw 2 or 3 turns into the nut (without using the covers).
  2. Use the screw to guide the nut into its hole. —if it fits easily, great. Do the same for the other side. The nuts should be guided into position but not fall out. If there's a small burr preventing the nut from entering, you can use a file or, if you don’t have one, a utility knife to remove the burr.
  3. Position the covers and then carefully insert the screw into its corresponding hole. Go slowly to avoid dislodging the nut.

Change Log:

  • 17/12/2024 - First Release
  • 18/12/2024 - Changed the internal trapdoors for easy access.
    • add some more information on the print process
  • 25/01/2025 - This in now available to all 
  •  

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Model origin

The author marked this model as their own original creation.

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