Don't start to print this if you don't have the needed magnets… more info bellow
Don't start to print this if you don't have the needed magnets… more info bellow
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A Refreshed Version of the Bambu Lab - Tools and Accessories Box
After the tremendous success of the original Bambu Lab - Tools and Accessories Box, which garnered thousands of downloads and makes, I decided it was time to refresh and enhance this project. This updated version introduces significant improvements across almost every aspect while maintaining the core functionality that made the original so popular.
And here is the new version for comparation and without any accessories or tools.
First of all, I would like to congratulate Prusa for adding the multiple build plates feature. It was truly something that was missing.
At the time of the project launch, this feature is still in beta, but it works very well, so feel free to use it. It is a mandatory requirement to open this document in Prusa Slicer. However, if you are not willing to install this version, I am also providing the pre-sliced versions.
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Another characteristic of this project is that it is only available for printers with the MMU, due to the use of multiple colors, but especially because I am using a “special” technique that allows for very easy support removal with a near-perfect finish in the areas where supports are applied. More information on this will be provided later
This version of the case allows you to store:
First Half of the Case
Second Half of the Case
The new version features a more modern aesthetic, though I understand design preferences can vary. The updated look aims to balance form and function while staying true to the original concept.
The modules now benefit from the advanced dimensional and geometric precision I developed in my most recent project:
UMSS - Universal Modular Storage System
![]() Almost all modules, can be found here | ![]() | ![]() |
This project builds on its predecessor:
The closing mechanism has been upgraded to a magnetic system, inspired by my previous projects. This makes the case more user-friendly and provides a reliable, sleek solution compared to the earlier version.
Unlike the original Tools and Accessories Box, this new case features an almost monobloc structure. This design choice addresses structural issues from the earlier version, improving durability and simplifying assembly.
One of the most complex aspects of this update was the handle. My goal was to integrate it seamlessly into the body of the case.
For this version, I redesigned the handle, choosing to keep it attached to the main body rather than making it a detachable piece, as I did in the MMSS case (link here). While a detachable handle might have simplified some aspects, it would have disrupted the clean, cohesive design I envisioned.
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The main challenge with the handle was the support material required during printing. Adjusting the model’s orientation to reduce support material was partially feasible but would have compromised the areas for the magnets. This trade-off was a deliberate decision to balance design, functionality, and printability.
For users seeking more flexibility—whether they find the number of hotend pockets excessive or insufficient—the UMSS and MMSS projects offer an ideal solution. Both systems are fully modular, allowing for personalized configurations to suit a variety of needs.
A configured file is available for download. This file has multiple buildplates (Prusa Slicer 2.9.0)
One possible way to solve the issue of marks left by the supports required to print the suitcase handle is to use materials in the interface zone that are incompatible, such as PETG for PLA and vice versa. In this case, a PETG model with a PLA interface layer works well, as long as matte PLA is not used—in that case, the results are disastrous. That said, there are many PLA and PETG variations, and the differences between them can be significant. Test with a small part or use the "cut" tool to section the piece and print a portion of the handle. Observe the results—if they turn out well, you can try printing the entire piece.
Here are some guidelines, and no more than that, starting with "Print Settings":
In addition to the usual settings, such as enabling supports, you can adjust the following:
Then, under Speed:
Under Multiple Extrude:
However, there is one thing you absolutely should not do:
Do not use matte PLA for any of the situations mentioned above. This material has a strong tendency to adhere to itself, making the removal of supports extremely difficult—if not impossible in most cases.
Interface layer and support structure on the left
Purging volumes
Just to make sure, when switching between PLA and PETG (and vice versa), ensure you purge at least double the recommended material to avoid contamination. Otherwise, you may end up with mixed material inside your part, and under stronger stress, it will break in the handle area.
In this case, the yellow is the diferente material that I'm using on the interface layer.
If, by the time you produce this part, it is possible to use the MMU with nozzles other than the 0.4mm one, simply ignore the following information.
For the lids and labels, it is ideal to use a 0.25mm nozzle.
The hinged lids are print-in-place.
Since the MMU currently does not support the use of the 0.25mm nozzle, the process is straightforward: disconnect the PTFE tube that runs from the MMU to the hotend. It should be disconnected at the MMU output. The material will then feed directly through this tube, just as it did before the MMU was installed. Swap the nozzle, and you are ready to print. Change the material manually when prompted – it will only need to be done twice.
To sum it up:
The print will pause at specific points to allow for magnet insertion. Ensure that the magnets are inserted with the correct orientation on the lids (both the small internal lids and the main lids of the case). The magnets should be oriented so that they attract each other.
Regarding the pause sequence, which can be very easily seen on bambu studio when the model is sliced. That bar on the right will show some pauses, move the slider up and down to see where the pause is located; the next layer after the pause should close the pocket for that magnet. Here is the example for the first half pauses. In the slicer you can see that most of the are 2 or 3 layers apart from each other, so, when it happens be prepared to put some magnets and glue…
This time, to avoid any risks, I chose to make the holes larger, so the magnets should be glued using quick adhesive. The reason is simple: I don't want your printer to suffer an impact with one of these magnets. Although the nozzle is not ferromagnetic, the guide bearings are, and since these magnets are relatively strong, they can become dislodged and cause an impact.
Depending on the adhesive, don't rush—allow it to dry and bond properly. In the case of quick adhesive, wait at least 5 minutes, even though it claims to bond in seconds—that's more applicable to your fingertips. ;)
The labels serve two proposes; identify the nozzle size and to secure the parts in its place when the case lids are closed, they have magnets that are exposed on the back side, be sure that they are glued in place.
Note that magnets, even with identical dimensions, can exhibit significant variations in attraction force due to differences in material composition, manufacturing processes, and magnetization. I cannot recommend specific magnets, but it is advisable to avoid the really cheap ones, as they tend to have lower magnetic flux density and reduced long-term stability.
For those not used to assembling mechanical and 3D-printed parts, there are a few tricks you might not know...
If you have a longer screw, it's easier:
If you don’t have a screw with a longer shaft, you can do the following:
Change Log:
The author marked this model as their own original creation.