10.1 HDMI display case for DFRobot display

UPDATE: added the mounting plates This is the Thai Makerspace pipe clamp I referred to: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3161549 although I use this one for light jobs like this: 25mm Pipe Clamp

This case was specifically designed for some DFRobot 10.1 HDMI displays

https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1501.html

10.1" Diagonal - 1280x800 IPS HDMI/VGA/AV Display

Although there are probably other resellers out there.

The case is built up from several parts and joined together with M3 screws - although self tappers and appropriate imperial should work.

The mounting holes in the back plate are unfortunately not suitable for a vesa 75 or 100 so I have created an adapter plate for that. I have also added an adapter plate for the excellent Thai Makerspace clamps.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

I3 MK3S

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.2

Infill:

20%

Notes:

For the frontplate and backbase I use 6 perimeters, this provides extra material around the drill holes for screwing together.

Everything should print without supports, there are blanking layers (.2mm) in the holes so that the indentations print cleanly.

There are 3 choices for the back cover, the HDMI one is what I use with a fairly large HDMI connector on it. The solid can be printed and then cut out what you want.

Finally the front stl actually contains the Seeed10_1.Front.FrontPanel.Front.stl Seeed10_1.Front.FPLabel.Front.stl front panel label. You can use with MMU or choose to keep or remove it for single material.

Post-Printing

Drill out the holes, these have a single layer deliberately to avoid supports

Connect BackLid to BackBase, you can use 12-16mm M3, or just some small self tappers, it doesn't matter if the self tapper extends on the sides (top right photo) You don't need all the screws, 1 on each side is probably sufficient.

Install control Board on spacer, I used short M3's for this, beware of screwing too hard and damaging control board.

Trim the soldered header pins on the button board, they need to be nearly flush (1mm)

Run the main display cable up and under the board to come out on the side. Note that the spacer is not a tight fit deliberately

Loosely fit the cable as shown. Check the next step. The keyboard cable was quite stiff, I warmed it up a bit with some hot air.

You want the button cable coming straight across the board, then under, then folded 90 degrees and down to button pad. Go slowly this takes some fiddling. This also shoes the buttons sitting in the lid.

End result, I have folded some excess button cable underneath.

Speaker cables installed, now we see who reads all the instructions before starting! if you do this before you start on the button cable it will be much easier.

Look at the 3 tabs for the speakers, the one towards the "middle" does not have overhang. Position speaker and gently push in to fit.

Basic notes for Vesa, maker plates.

The Vesa plate is 10mm threaded M4 at 75 and 100mm so use 10-12mm M4 depending on the thickness of your mounting bracket. The Vesa plate to backlid is counter sunk about 4mm so use 10-12mm here as well. The countersink should be big enough for a hex headed bolt.

Category: Electronics