MufflerMod - Ender3 V3 SE silent setup

Description

This is a mod to make your printer quiet and still be symmetric with a nice outside shroud to cover everything inside.

This design is intended to be the one to upgrade your Ender3 V3 SE from start:

• works on stock Ender3 V3 SE carriage (no linear rails mod or special extruder required)
• does not require repositioning CRTouch — no fiddling with probe X/Y offset needed
• works with unbranded extruder motors that lack side screw holes

It's designed to be modular and supports following options:

• 2 × 5020 blower fans for part cooling
• 40mm hotend axial fan (both 4010 and 4020 will fit, Noctua-friendly)
• part cooling nozzles for stock SE hotend height
• heatsink shroud for stock SE hotend heatsink

Magnets are used for holding side shrouds and as pogo-pins for side part-cooling fans. You may wish to connect fans directly, bypassing magnets, but magnets themselves are important to hold the assembly together.

BOM

• 8 pcs - 6x3 magnets
• 4 pcs - M3x25mm screws for side fans
• 8 pcs - M3 nuts (preferably locking nuts, the ones with nylon inserts) for side fans and side fan nozzles
• 4 pcs - M3 screws for hotend fan; pick length depending on your hotend fan of choice:
  • 25mm for 4020 axial fans (e.g. Noctua)
  • 15-20mm for 4010 axial fans
• 1 pcs - M3x6mm screws for main shroud mounting
• 4 pcs - M3x10mm or M3x12mm for side fan nozzles

Assembly instructions

Put a bare fan wires through the holes in magnet inlays, make a loop and cram the rest inside to make it contact the magnet. Mind the wires polarity: the shrouds have embossed images to help you keep track of which wire should go where — V+ for 24v positive (red wire) and ⏚ for ground (black wire).

Insert magnets into magnet holes on main shroud and side fan shrouds. Check magnets polarity — they should attract to each other. 

Now is a good time to check that your wires actually have contact with magnets — use electrical continuity tester for that. You may want to use copper foil on under the magnet if you don't have enough wire to form a connecting pad underneath the magnet.

Your main shroud magnet wires will be connected to the spliced JST connector from the original 4010 blower fan, but mounting them pre-connected is a bit of a hassle. To help with that you may consider one of the following:

• leaving enough wire to loop over the whole extruder assembly and then tuck it behind the extruder
• adding another JST connector between left and right wires
• use adhesive copper foil to make conductive tracks on the inside of the main shroud  

Use a dab of instant CA glue to secure magnets.

Remove stock 2525 fan

Attach a hotend fan to a hotend shroud using M3 screws

Put hotend shroud around the heatsink - it should just slide in

Unscrew ONLY THE TOP SCREW of CRTouch bracket

Put main body shroud - it should slide from the front, but might get tricky on the left - you'll have to force the rear left inner wall for magnets to push away. The hotend shroud should fit snugly with side flanges.

Screw the main body shroud through the top CRTouch screw hole with some longer m3 screw (M3x6).

Mind the wires: pass extruder motor and CRTouch wires between metal bracket and shroud, tuch them behind the (now unused) black mounting metal tab.

Screw the main body shroud on the right, using the stock screws you got from unmounting the CRTouch bracket, through the stock holes.

Now is a good time to figure out your wiring. Cut original fans from their wires (leave at least 5 cm of wire on the connector side). Solder wires from magnets to the spliced connector of original 4010 blower fan. Solder hotend fan wires to snipped connector of original hotend fan. Use heatshrink tubes or electric tape to isolate bare wires.

Insert side fan nozzles into side fan outlet and secure it with M3x30 screws and M3 nuts

Insert blower fan into side shroud, secure it with M3x25 screws and M3 nuts. Add blue loctite so that the don't come undone from vibrations. 

Attach side shroud to body using fit-in flanges and magnets

Don't forget to recalibrate your Z-offset and hotend PID — you've messed with CRTouch mouting bracket and the overall cooling capabilities of your hotend changed.

Update log

2025-01-29: Mark as released. Added mounting holes for BTT ADXL345; Uploaded STEP files for your convenience.

2025-01-26 v40: Main shroud front chamfer instead of fillet for cleaner printing

2025-01-25 v39: More cutouts on left fan shroud; More cutouts on main shroud for easier mounting. Moved left magnets, changed main shroud magnet sockets depth; Changed part cooling nozzles profile.

2024-12-18 v35: More cutouts on left fan shroud; Lowered nozzle mounting holes

2024-12-18 v34: Cutouts on left fan shroud; Lowered nozzle mounting holes

2024-12-18 v33: Adjusted tolerances for side fan inlet holes 

2024-12-17 v32: Adjusted M3 screw hole tolerances for easier assembly

2024-12-17 15:25 v31: Added hotend shroud inner alignment pads for better fit inside main shroud. Slightly altered hotend fan window in main shroud to accomodate for possible fan grill attachments.

Roadmap

• 5015 blower part cooling fan shroud options
• Longer nozzles for volcano / KE ceramic hotends
• Hotend shroud for KE hotend
• Mounting place for Neopixel inside the main shroud
• Mounting place for lightbar closer to nozzle
• Hotend fan grilles
• 4010 blower part cooling fan shroud option (for stock blower fan)