Thick spout replacement for the flimsy ones that come detached from these cans as soon as they tip over and hit something.
It was tough tuning this for PETG. Below 210°C, layers come apart. Above that, bridges and top edges turn to mush. The solution was to slow it down and print it all in one job. That gives parts time to cool as the print head moves between parts. Also, print orientation. I have only ever had success printing these parts one way. And that is upside-down with the threads facing up.
Includes a .3mf file with my settings for a successful print. Just change printer, redo (or remove) the variable layer height settings, and re-slice. A lot of settings went into this. 100% infill, variable layer height, reduced speed, brim, extra temperature commands, fans on overhangs, …
There is plenty of thread clearance on the main spout to give room for some teflon tape.
So, if the pipe threads bind up due to PETG warping, PETG is forgiving in that it will shrink if you heat it with a heat gun at 250-300°C. Carefully heat the part that you want to make smaller, one second at a time, and test. You can barely see it shrinking.
Seal the printed valve with your food-safe sealant, printed TPU o rings, silicone, tallow, beeswax, hydrophobic powders, or… This part is experimental. Share your ideas on valve seals and how they worked out!
The author marked this model as their own original creation.