K2 Plus - CFS Riser, Ventilation, and Storage

In V1, there was a minor design flaw in Parts 3 and 4. There is a part on the bottom of the CFS that juts down that I did not account for. If you already printed parts 3 and 4, you can print 2 of the feet risers and drop them into the back two slots. You will never know the difference.

I started from benlevi's BLV - AMS Riser  concept and completely rebuilt it for the K2 Plus. Credit to them for the original concept, but this is a new creation.

This is a big print, and has been a big effort for me to make, so I hope that you enjoy it.

Depending on the parameters you use, you are looking at 3-4 kg of total filament and ~80 print hours. The K2 Plus gets toasty when the chamber heater is turned on, so I would tend toward PETG or greater thermal stability for the main body, but I haven't tested, so who knows.

You will also want TPU or some other flexible filament to accommodate the gasket for the glass.

As I said, this is a complete redesign of the original, incorporating many changes to improve printing. Gone are the fillets, and replaced with chamfers to minimize the need for supports. Angles are kept to a maximum of 60 degrees so no supports are needed. The seems are more effectively hidden to improve appearances. Hidden pocket screw holes are added if you want additional strength and rigidity.

Assembly is the same as the original.

Side Panels can be downloaded here: https://www.printables.com/model/1100603-k2-plus-cfs-riser-side-panel-packs

Drawer options can be downloaded here: https://www.printables.com/model/1100613-k2-plus-csf-riser-drawer-options 

Gridfinity packs can be downloaded here: https://www.printables.com/model/1100627-k2-plus-cfs-riser-gridfinity-parts/files 

I want to always keep my designs free for anyone who wants to use them, but this does take time and effort. So if my designs are worth something to you, please feel free to support my work

***IMPORTANT NOTES - READ ME OR YOU WILL WASTE A LOT OF TIME AND FILAMENT***

• All of the main body parts should be printed with supports set to on, with:
  • Threshold angle: 25
  • First layer expansion: 0
  • On build plate only: checked
  • Remove small overhangs: checked
  • Top interface spacing: 0
  • Support/object xy distance: 0.35
• Although completely optional, there are screw holes between all of the parts to pull them snuggly together. I put these in thinking that the tolerances may be a little loose and I would want them to all be snug, but after assembly, I found that they are really not necessary. But you can still use them. DO NOT install bolts that are too long as they will push through the other side. The bolt lengths are as follows
  • Under the back panel connecting parts 3 and 4, 
    • Min 20 mm
    • Max 30 mm
    • Recommended 25 mm
    • 
  • Between parts 1&4 and 2&3, bottom
    • Min 7 mm
    • Max 15 mm
    • Recommended 10 mm  
    • 
  • Between Parts 1 and 2
    • Min 7 mm
    • Max 25 mm
    • Recommended 20mm
    • 
  • Between parts 1&4 and 2&3, drawer area
    • Min 8 mm
    • Max 20 mm
    • Recommended 15 mm
    • 
  • Between parts 2&4
    • Min 25 mm
    • Max 40 mm
    • Recommended 35 mm
    • 
  • Between parts 1&3
    • Min 35 mm
    • Max 40 mm
    • Recommended 40 mm
    • 
  • Between parts 1&dash and 2&dash
    • Min 20 mm
    • Max 30 mm
    • Recommended 25 mm
      • 
• Parts 1 and 2 have two sections that are effectively blades 3.6 mm in width. These are a trouble spot for bed adhesion. I have included Parts 1 and 2 with pre-designed brims. These brims sit 0.1 mm from the print and do pull off easily, but I would still use a reamer. These brims must be treated specially. If you are using the stls, you want the brim to not have elephant foot compensation, but the main part to have it, so when you have the parts in place do the following:
  1. Right click the model
  2. Select Split
  3. Select Split to Parts
  4. Select the brim section
  5. Select Object settings
  6. Under quality, set Elephant foot compensation to 0
• The included gridfinity is non-standard. They are 38.5x38.5.
  • The included baseplate and larger bin are designed so that the you remove the large bin and slide the baseplate forward to get assess to all of the smaller bings.
• The CFS buffer should be mounted to the back of the CFS, NOT to the machine itself. It works perfectly fine and is one of the two mounting options in Creality's user guide.
• SOme people printing ABS and ASA found that the holes in the dash were too small. I believe this is because of shrinkage. If you are using these filaments, try the dash with larger holes

My model was inspired and modeled after the BLV AMS rider by benlevi, however, it is for all practical purposes a complete remake as everything had to be recreated for the K2 plus. However, credit where credit is due for the great design to start from.