You will need to print:
- 1x Base
- 2x Side
- 3x Roller
- If you have a dimensionally accurate machine, use 8.0mm bore model.
- If you have issues with accuracy, you can use the 8.1mm or 8.2mm oversized bore models to try and compensate without having to reprint multiple times to get it just right, if you so choose.
- 6x Roller Washer
- Should not be and is not necessary to be a tight fit over the pins. If it is too tight to install, scale the X and Y but not Z (thickness) up by a few percent to increase the effective bore size.
- You want the side plates to be as straight and parallel as possible when the split pins are pressed in to avoid the rollers rubbing the sides, it may take experimentation with the thickness to get it just right.
- 12x Roller Split Pin
- Ideally these would be as close to 8mm diameter as possible for a secure fit in the bearings.
- You want the pins to be a snug fit into the roller bore, that way they stay secured and help to add lateral stiffness to the sides.
- They can be scaled down if needed to fit into an undersize roller bore if you don't want to reprint them. A snug fit for full engagement of the bearing bore is not critical, but it does help with the stiffness.
Hardware also required:
- 6x M3x12 screws
- Counterbores are based on a socket head cap screw with 3x5.5mm head.
- You can also use longer screws if you really wanted, the holes in the base are through holes. You can likely fit up to 20mm screws before running into the X brace on the side holes.
- 6x M3 nuts
- Nut slots are based on 2.5x5.5mm (flat to flat) hex nuts.
- 6x 608 bearings
- You can try printed bearings too if you happen to be feeling adventurous.
It admittedly is a bit of a faff to put together especially compared to the original, but the resulting unit is incredibly strong and able to withstand my entire body weight standing and lightly bouncing on just one roller, so it should be literally unbreakable when used as intended.
The author remixed this model.
Differences of the remix compared to the original
- Removed the axle pins from the roller in favor of a bore and separate pins to increase strength and to avoid reprinting an entire roller if they do happen to break.
- Added small chamfers to the gap sections of the roller remove the need for supports. Now everything is printable supportless.
- Slightly thickened the base and added nut slots because direct threading the plastic wasn't sturdy enough in my opinion.
- Adjusted the screw holes to match the base and added counterbores to the side plates to hide the screw heads for a cleaner look.