This part replaces the swinging close coupling yoke with a Kadee style coupler pocket and adds some end details. Conversion is reversable should the modeler wish to use the original style coupler yoke. Should be useful when operating longer train sets or in push-pull operations where the drawbar movement may not be desirable. This does leave a larger than desirable gap between the cars to compensate for clearances. This model was designed to operate on my clubs 26" radius curves and through short crossovers without binding.
Each end requires a Kadee coupler and a screw with 4mm in length and 2mm in diameter. Highly recommend using a Kadee 118 coupler with the top shelf filed off and the centering whiskers gently pried a bit wider.
First remove the NEM coupler yoke and unclip the spring, set these aside as the couplers can be converted back to the NEM if desired. Then insert the upper adapter from above the car floor into the recessed coupler area. If this is not fully snapped into the recessed area the car interior will not fit into place during reassembly. Separately, install as Kadee coupler into the middle keeper and firmly press the bottom keeper down onto the middle keeper's peg. The glue the end details part to the middle/bottom keeper assembly, being careful not to glue the Kadee coupler. Final step is to screw the assembly into the upper adapter. I find it useful to start the screw though the middle/bottom keeper assembly while on my work bench, then finish the last part while firmly pressing against the upper adapter. The car shell needs to be trimmed under the diaphragms to clear the Kadee coupler. using an Xacto blade simply shave half the shell height of car skirt directly under the diaphragms on each end. See picture for example.
Parts are designed to be printed laying on the flat side with no support. Pictured build was printed using PLA and a 0.2mm nozzle. Remixes are welcome!
The author marked this model as their own original creation.