Passport 8500 X50 Shell redesign (Imperfect)

First off, this is an imperfect replacement for the original case.  The case for my Passport 8500 X50 was cracking and literally falling apart, so I did a rough design of a new case.  This is one of the best radar detectors I've ever had the chance to use, so I really did not want to have to replace it just because the case was breaking.  “I have a 3D printer, Im'ma fix it!”  Yeah, nope, Passport's case design sucks (mines not much better, lol)  so I redesigned it!  This is a complete shell for the radar detector and it has PrObLeMs!

Starting with LASER detection, forward detection, MIGHT work (none of the jurisdictions in my area use LASER so I won't be able to test it), but rear facing LASER detection has been removed completely (remember, no one uses it here).  I'll probably (maybe?) “fix” it in a later design, but be aware that it might not function at all, especially if you use an opaque material for the forward facing deflector.

Radar (all bands) should have zero problems penetrating PETG, or any other printable material UV protection is provided by your windshield.  For car heat, I'd recommend PETG over PLA but I don't think ASA or ABS is necessary, certainly no need for exotic materials.

Case uses three(3) M3 x 12mm hex socket head cap screws and three (3) M3 threaded inserts.  That's what I modeled around and used in the final(ish) assembly that's currently in the car.  Please feel free to use a different size or style screws or nuts, but that's what I had sitting on my desk while working on the design.

The display, okay, clear filaments are finicky so, good luck!  The model I uploaded is for printers that can change filaments during the print.  If your printer can't change filaments during the print, just don't print the rear defuser or print the whole thing in clear.  I blocked off the area that wasn't covering the display because I didn't like how the light from the display was blurred and defused with the whole thing printed in clear.  I'm definitely going to make the rear defuser thinner in the future releases, but it works as is, and this design likely won't be updated for a long time, unless there's a lot of demand for revisions or updates (feel free to message, comment, or review, negative feedback is appreciated too!  Don't hold back!)

I couldn't shake the ADD tangent that this design reminded me of a Cyber Truck for some reason, and I currently drive an Impreza so I'll probably put my efforts and revisions into shaping the case to look like a Cyber Truck and an Impreza.  I'm not a great designer though so don't hold your breath for either coming out quickly.

Buttons, I will be implementing buttons in the stylized cases, this case doesn't have any buttons.  I leave my detector in voltage display, and Highway mode, so I'd suggest you find a mode and display format that you like, set it, then put it in the case.  I use the mute button built into the power cord, and not the face plate one.

Volume/power wheel, the case was designed to use the factory wheel, but while I was measuring out the detector mine broke.  I downloaded one that I happened to find on thingyverse and I didn't like it.  So I slapped one together, and I mean slapped it together.  It's not shaped great, and it doesn't have a textured side so it's a bit of a pain to turn.  This is, yet again, where I don't use it/play with it, so I didn't spend any time on it.  I leave it on and at max volume all the time, so I almost didn't even bother making a new wheel.  But hey, here's a new wheel if yours is broken, or if you, for some reason want a smooth wheel? I don't think this will work in the factory case, but this isn't supposed to be a case repair design so, sorry(?).

Finally, please drive responsibly.  Radar detectors are easily defeated, and a lot of departments train their officers to use methods that radar detectors won't help you with.  Respect other drivers, and please be safe.

Assembly instructions:

1. Heat up your threaded inserts and set them in the three studs on the upper body.
2. The single stud located near the front defuser may need to be file fitted to fit between the RJ-25 power connector and the 3mm(1/8in) jack.  Before you try to bolt the case together check the fitment of this stud between these two objects.  The stud is shaped, but it still may or may not fit.
3. Remove the screw holding your volume/power wheel in place.  Carefully tilt the wheel back and forth until you can lift it off of the main board.
4. Carefully slot the 3mm(1/8in) and RJ-25 jacks into their respective slots on the side of the lower body by angling the board slightly to clear the opposite side wall.
5. Reattach the volume/power wheel paying attention to the slot in the underside of the wheel and the stud on the wheel mount.  You will need to angle the wheel between the opening on the side of the case for the wheel and the wheel mount.  Both the factory wheel and the one in this set will fit and mount, but it may be a bit tricky initially.
6. At this point in time you may want to stop assembly and at least verify that you have the radar detector configured in the way you will want it to be in the car.
7. Slide the front and rear defusers into their respective slots on the case.  The “legs” on both defusers point down.
8. Lower the upper body down onto the board in the lower body.  Don't forget the shaped stud on the upper body and be careful setting it in place.  Check that you have a clear view of the threaded inserts in the upper body from the holes on the lower body.
9. If everything lines up, thread in the M3 x 12mm bolts in through the bottom of the lower body and into the studs on the upper body.  Torque to no more than than 5 FT/LBS.
10. Insert windshield mount angled clip into slot on upper body until slot on upper body and slot on the windshield mount line up.
11. Insert lock pin in slot on upper body to trap windshield mount in place.
12. Go for a drive!