Starlink Rectangular Dishy modular Flat Mount

Disclaimer: This will definelty void your warranty, you can easily break your very expensive starlink dish, do not try this if you are not confortable with DIY projects.

IM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU BREAK SOMETHING, DAMAGE PROPERTY OR HURT SOMEONE, PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN MOUNTING ANYTHING TO A VEHICLE!!!

This is a remix of @jazzhavingfu_1356291 amazing starlink mount.

Printed on black ASA filament using 0.12 layer height, 20% infill, 1.2mm wall thickness, 5 wall lines.

Glued all the printed pieces together with super glue, the acrylic panel and the dish are glued using black Polyurethane (PU40) glue for strenght and waterproofing (The acrylic can also be waterproofed with 3mm nitrile gasket).

For this mount you will need to print 2 corner A, 2 corner B and 12 straight pieces, you can mix and match the Straight_corner_mount, Straight_Center_mount, Straight_Center_mount_connector_hole and straight.

For the exact model I created in the photos you will need the following:

• 4 Straight_corner_mount (so the mounts on the longer side match each other position)
• 3 Straight_Center_mount
• 1 Straight_Center_mount_connector_hole
• 4 straight
• 2 Corner A
• 2 Corner B
• 1 laser cut Acrlylic sheet
• A truck load of M2.5x12 screws
• 2.5mm zip ties
• Double sided zip ties holder
• 8 66mm M6 magnetic mounts (25kgf holding power each probably overkill but dont want this thing flying off in the highway and hurting someone)
• Assortment of M6 bolts and nuts
• lots of patience

Below are the assembly instructions 

1. Glue all the 3d printed parts together using super glue. (Be careful here, take some time to sand the edges and make the pieces fit nicely ensuring a better waterproofing and easier assembly)
2. I designed a very simple but effective SPX connector mount with strain relief. Before you attach the connector to the mount make sure to cover 2 small holes with PU40 glue so water doesnt drip inside the mount. 
3. Glue the SPX connector in place with lots of PU40 glue and fasten the zipties
4. Glue the acrylic in place using PU40 and fasten all screws, use clamps for better holding power.
5. For cable management, use double sided zip ties mounts so the cable doesnt move aroung and risk damaging the internals of the antenna
6. Teardown the dishy using the steps on this great youtube video, no need to dissasemble the rounter only the dishy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqzim4wR7eE
7. Add a liberal amount of PU40 glue on the internal edge of dish, PLUG IN THE SPX CONNECTOR TO THE DISH (please dont forget that or its going to be a very bad day) and glue the dish to the top of the mount. If you printed everything right it should slot in place nicely.
8. Clamp the dish in place and wait for the glue to cure. If possible use at least 12 clamps, 3 for each side. There is no need to use super strong clamps as the dish should slot in place and there is the risk of damaging the dish doing that. (Use medium to low force force clamps and distribute the clamping power as much as possible)
9. After the glue dries, add the magnets in the mounts with M6 bolts and nuts.
10. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. 

Cheers!

Made some changes to the model to include more mounting tabs and make the mounts sturdier for car mounting using magnets. Made a holder for the original starlink SPX connector with strain relief for longevity.