Embark on a journey to the stars with this custom-designed 8" f/4 reflecting telescope, a project deeply inspired by the legendary 114 Hadley. Building on the principles of simplicity, performance, and accessibility that made the Hadley a favorite among makers, this telescope takes those values to the next level with enhanced features and a larger aperture for breathtaking views of the cosmos.
Inspired by one of the most beloved maker telescopes, this project builds on the Hadley’s principles to deliver a larger, more powerful instrument. It’s an ideal project for astronomy enthusiasts who appreciate the joy of crafting their own high-performance gear while paying homage to a design that set the standard for DIY telescopes.
The 114 Hadley paved the way for accessible, high-performance DIY telescopes. This 8" f/4 design builds on its legacy, inviting you to explore the universe with an instrument that blends inspiration, innovation, and creativity. Download the files today and start crafting your window to the stars!
Designed with the same tube diameter as the 114 Hadley, this 8" f/4 telescope offers unparalleled flexibility for makers and astronomers who already own Hadley-compatible accessories. Whether it’s mounting rings, dovetails, or other add-ons crafted for the single-tube Hadley design, they will integrate seamlessly with this build.
Printing this telescope is fairly straightforward and support-free. There are a couple of spots that differ:
Primary Mirror Collimation Knobs
For these parts you'll need to embed some nuts into the print. So in your slicer, after slicing, you should drag down the layer-by-layer view and put a pause into the print on layer 25. When your printer pauses, place some nuts in the hexagonal holes in the print and then resume the print
The spider
Same story with the spider, you need to embed 3 nuts into the spider for the collimation screws. Place a pause on layer 27, when the printer pauses - place some nuts in the three hexagonal holes and then resume printing.
If you've built a Hadley, assembly will be super easy for you. You use screws to attach parts or clamp down onto the tube and then. place nuts into the rectangular holes for the screws to hold their place.
The spots that differ are all going to be on the primary mirror cell. The top of the primary mirror cell has 6 spots that need M2 heatsets. Only 3.2mm wide heatsets are going to work here, so make sure you're spot on with the parts list in that regard. The bottom of the primary mirror cell has 7 heatset insert pilot holes. 3 of them are mandatory and used for collimation. They take M4 heatset inserts. The 4 around the central hole are for a 60mm cooling fan. They require M3 heatset inserts.
Use 3 30mm springs around the M4x50 screws between the bottom assembly and the primary mirror cell.
Use 4 20mm springs between the spider and the secondary mirror cell.
Spacing
Being an f/4 scope, spacing is super important. If you go with the same focuser that I did, your spacing will be identical to mine. You're going to want the spacing between the bottom and top assemblies to be 527mm, this puts your spacing between the primary mirror and middle of the secondary mirror at 597mm, the distance from the middle of the secondary mirror to the end of the focuser tube right at the 800mm focal length.
The author remixed this model.
The original is based around a spherical 6" mirror, this telescope is built around an 8" f/4 parabolic primary mirror and a larger, 70mm secondary mirror.