I wanted my DeSteiner Revolver II to be more realistic. But I got that idea after I had already printed it, and I didn't want to use more filament than necessary. So I modified it after printing.
One thing that I couldn't modify post-print was the bullets (hence the lack of the other modified files), so I modified them in PrusaSlicer like I usually do when creating remixes.
Note: If I refer to a 3D-model, I'll likely have linked directly to its model preview. If the preview doesn't show up for you after clicking the link, just reload the page and it should show up.
Needed material
- 1x Small spike (at least 19 mm long, better too long so it can be cut down to size, width/diameter should ideally be around 1.5 mm)
- 1x Shorter spike (for securing the spring in place. Should ideally have a pretty large head, but it should still fit in the place where the old slider spring was)
- 1x Small but strong spring (make sure it isn't too strong or weak, also make sure it isn't too large so it doesn't get in the way of the spike)*
- 1x Small cylindrical object** (for holding the spring in place. This will need to be custom-made for your specific spring***, but this fit my spring perfectly)
*You want the spring to be slightly compressed when you put the spring and slider assembly in the revolver. It should be compressed enough so that it doesn't move around when shaking the revolver.
**The small cylindrical object is not necessary if the spring already gets compressed when the spring-slider assembly gets placed into the frame.
***You can measure the inner diameter of the small but strong spring, then put it on the Shorter spike after pushing it into the slider. After that, measure the gap between the spring and top of the slider-compartment of the frame while the slider is pushed as far down as possible.
With these measurements, you can head over to your slicer and create a cylindrical object that has those values, you should add maybe 1 or 2 mm to the height of it, and maybe 0.1 mm to the diameter. This is because you want it to sit tightly on the spring.
Tools
- Soldering iron or lighter
- Drill with a small drill bit (I used a 4 mm drill bit)
- Tiny round file (for smoothing out the drilled hole and for making small adjustments to said hole)
- Tiny flat file (in case you need to sharpen the spike if you, for example, cut it down to size)
- Thin needle (optional, used for clearing out the hole in the bullets)
Instructions
- Remove the slider spring (spring_slider.stl)
- Drill a hole that is slightly oval-shaped in the frame (see photo 2 for how it should look)
- Push the Small spike through the hammer with the help of a soldering iron, pliers, and some luck that you got it centered. You can also heat the spike with a lighter before pushing it into the hammer instead of constantly heating it with the soldering iron.
You can use a loaded modified bullet as a guide for centering the spike while pushing it in. For the best results, the spike's tip should barely be touching the bullet's hole [IMPORTANT] (see photo 3)
- Push the Shorter spike into the slider (slider.stl) using the same method as the Small spike, but don't push it in too far. It should not be poking out of the other side much, preferably not at all (see photo 4)
- Put the Small cylindrical object on the end of the Small but strong spring (see photo 4)
- Place the Small but strong spring on the Shorter spike (“screw” it onto the spike if possible) (see photo 5)
- Place the slider and Small but strong spring assembly in the revolver the same way as you would with the unmodified version (see photo 6)
- Put the modified hammer back in place
- Reassemble the rest (look at the first and second note under the Notes section before reassembling [IMPORTANT])
- Optional: clear out the small hole in the bullets with the Thin needle (see photo 8)
- Cut the round toy cap gun ammo things into individual pieces and attach them to the modified bullets (see photo 7)
Important Notes
- Unfortunately, the double action system got borked as the slider spring is too strong, so you should remove the double-action-connector.stl to minimize the risk of something breaking inside of it.
- I have noticed that it works much better with a shorter barrel, so for the best results, you should be using a short barrel, such as the Snub Nose Barrel remix of the barrel (which I am using) or something similar.
- You can still use the speed loader with the toy cap gun ammo loaded in the bullets. The bullets will sit looser than the original bullets, but they don't fall out that easily.
- Even with a relatively sharp spike and strong spring, the toy cap gun ammo doesn't always fire in the first attempt (sometimes not even the second attempt).
- The trigger weight is insanely light, and you will also need to be quite firm when pulling the hammer back. (This will heavily depend on the strength of your spring)
- The metallic parts will likely start to rust a bit after some use due to toy cap gun ammo oxidizing them (or something like that), so don't use your favorite spike or spring!
- The center hole for the bullet is not visible on the preview in the 3d-model viewer here, but it will be visible once you import it into your slicer (only tested with PrusaSlicer).
File & Description Updates
Here you will find all modifications that I have done to this description and model file(s). The text next to the date describes which part of this remix has been modified.
Feb 2nd, 2025 — Description
- [Change] — Italicized all parentheses
- [Change] — Bolded all [IMPORTANT] tags in the Instructions
- [Change] — Renamed the “Needed Tools” section to just “Tools”
- [Change] — Renamed the “Notes” section to “Important Notes”
- [Change] — Improved formatting of the footnotes for the “Tools” section, making them more readable
- [Change] — Improved step no. 2 in the Instructions to make it more clear what I mean
- [Change] — Improved Important Note no. 2 (the one mentioning the Snub Nose Barrel remix)
- [Change] — Improved the credits text for the small cylindrical object and Snub Nose Barrel remix
- [Change] — Turned the “Important Notes” section into a bullet list
- [Change] — Made spacing between the sections more noticeable and consistent
- [Change] — Made all [IMPORTANT] tags uppercase instead of lowercase
- [Change] — Made the “Disclaimers” and “Credits” sections' titles bigger (Heading 3 → Heading 2)
- [Addition] — Added this "File & Description Updates" section
- [Addition] — Added a short explanation for Important Note no. 5 (the one mentioning the trigger weight)
- [Addition] — Added the [important] tag to the parentheses in step no. 9 of the Instructions
Disclaimers
The GIF used shows the intended use case, where the smoke from the toy cap gun ammo comes out of the barrel. As with the original revolver and bullets, it cannot shoot projectiles, and you should not attempt to make it able to do so.
This design is intended solely for use with toy cap gun ammunition, as shown in the last image. Under no circumstances should you attempt to use real caps or real bullets with these modified bullets or modified revolver.
I bear no responsibility for how you choose to use this information and/or model. I will not be held liable for any harm, injury, or damage caused to you, others, or property. Use this design at your own risk and discretion.
Do not allow children to use the modified revolver or bullets without an adult present. I would not recommend allowing kids under 13 to use this at all.
Never point the modified revolver at sensitive areas such as, but not limited to, someone's head, eyes, nose, ears, and mouth regardless of if the modified bullets are loaded or not.
Be careful around the hammer as it is spring-loaded, and has a sharp spike attached to it. It can puncture skin, I know from experience.
Credits