Compatibility: This case design is compatible with Raspberry Pi's 2B/3B/3B+/4. It may be compatible with other models, however, these were the ones I was personally able to test it on.
Two Top Depths: (01/06/2022) The top half is now available in two different depths. There is a 3mm depth difference between DEEP and STANDARD. The DEEP option was added for more clearance when using the OLED and Fan Module and also to increase clearance for Heat Sink users. When picking your files to print, make sure to pay attention to match “STD” or “DEEP” in their filenames. ie If you are printing a DEEP top with Side Rails, make sure to select DEEP rails. Bottoms fit both top sizes, only the side mounting rails are affected by different tops.
No Hardware: This design does not use any hardware and all parts are “Snap-Fit.” There are small tabs that flex a tiny bit to allow a lip to snap into a groove.
Mounting: There are 3 variations of the cases: No Mounting Options, VESA 75 Mount, and a Side Rail Case. The Side Rail case is designed so that users can easily make their own mounting option for the case. Included in the files is “__ss_rail_1_02.STEP” which can be used to design your own mount for the Side Rail Design.
Modules: Included in the files is “module_1_01_blank.STEP” which can be used to make your own custom modules.
Printing / Support: I have Uploaded GCODE (All Sets) for Prusa MK3S and MINI. These files do not require any support. In Prusa Slicer .20mm Layer Thickness on QUALITY prints out a very nice case.
Tips:
File Structure: I have separated the different versions into STL sets. The file names reference the model and mounting style. The modules are available in both a set and individually.
Naming Convention: There are a lot of parts! I did my best to identify each part's features in the filenames. Here is a breakdown:
Fan Module: The fan module uses a 40x40x10mm fan. I have tried tons of manufacturers fans and they all snap in the module perfectly. The trick is to gently insert the fan straight on (not crooked). Getting it back out is a bit trickier, in fact, I typically break the tabs trying to get the fan back out. This is the limitation of making a Snap-In module with a 3D printer that uses layers. It is recommended to use the DEEP top for fan and OLED modules.
OLED: I have a document on how I got the OLED wired and what software was installed. The file is a very rough outline; if anyone wants it it is available here. It is a work in progress and I will keep updating. It is recommended to use the DEEP top for fan and OLED modules.
Rails: I have uploaded rails for several mounting options including a Prusa MK3S rail, Mini Rail, and a Left/Right Wall Mount rail. The Prusa MK3S rail uses the two open M3 screw holes directly above the control box. There are also two rails for the Prusa Mini. One Rail is designed to mount your Raspi on the 3030 behind the controller, and one is designed to mount your Raspi on the 3030 in the Rear Left corner. Both of these rails can be used to mount your Raspi in many other places too! I have also included M3 Roll Nuts in the design The Mount behind the Mini Controller Requires 2x M3x12mm flathead screws and 2x M3 nuts. The Mini Rear Left Mount Requires 2x M3x18mm flathead screws and 2x M3 nuts.
Rail Update: (01/06/2022) There are now two widths of rails STANDARD and DEEP. A new top size was added, and the DEEP rail is needed when using this new top. Additionally, all rails lock into place now. When putting the Pi on the rails, if you give a little extra force at the end it should pop into a locked position.
** Disclaimer: This design requires a perfect printer setup. The amount of material on the tabs is so small, that the slightest layer adhesion issue and the tab will break. I have printed and tested hundreds of these on my Prusa MK3S/Mini Printer's and the design is solid. If you are having issues with the tabs breaking, please look at your print settings.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.