Iqos Heets/Terea Mobile Ashtray

After multiple iterations from my first design (Low profile Iqos Heets/Terea ashtray by Joesn | Download free STL model | Printables.com) I eventually came up with a design that's robust and works smoothly.

Recommended Print Settings

Materials:

Independent of the material, only use mechanically strong filament. Avoid “silk” filaments as well as most matte filaments as they are either too weak or have bad layer adhesion.

PLA generally works well, but I'd probably recommend PLA+ for improved toughness, especially for the slider. With standard PLA, the slider will also become quite loose rather quickly so it might slide open on it's own in your pocket

PETG is likely a better choice, but is harder to get working properly, especially during the break-in period (instructions below). Also stringing can cause issues with the sticks getting stuck.

I had some quite good results when mixing PLA+ and PETG with the container, slider and end-stop (optional) being printed in PETG and the lid & locking bar printed in PLA+

Print Settings:

I personally use Cura, so the names and availability of these settings may vary…

Layer Height: 0.2
Walls: 2
Top/Bottom Layers: 3
Infill: Doesn't really matter… 10+% but I use 30% Gyroid
Support: Standard with XY Distance of 1mm (otherwise removing the support is a real pain)
I also added support blockers on the slider as there no supports are needed (see print orientation screenshot)
Ironing: All layers (This is recommended for smooth operation)

Break-In:

The model has very tight tolerances to ensure a perfect fit. Therefore a dedicated break-in routine is needed.

There is no difference in the break-in between PLA and PETG, but the tougher and “stickier” nature of PETG make it a bit harder.

Pre-Check: Make sure there are no blobs or malformed edges. Cut them off before starting to break things in.

1. Slide the lid onto the container until they glide smoothly
2. Insert the mobile-tray-insert into the container and continue to wear-in the lid as before. (Don't force the lid as this might break it. Progress slowly so it won't jam up. Blowing onto the part from time to time helps a bit)
3. Wear-in the slider onto the lid (without the container)
4. Insert the locking bar into the lid (still without the container) and move the slider until is runs somewhat smoothly
5. Fully assemble your print and move things around until they are smooth enough for everyday use.

Assembly

1. Place the insert onto the container so that the slot aligns
2. The locking bar is inserted into the lid with the two notches pointing upwards
3. Hold the locking bar centered and slide in the slider
4. Move the slider to the assembling position (you should feel a loose spot in the travel of the slider, or you can use the lid with the notch)
5. Pull the locking bar up and slide the lid onto the container
6. As soon as you move the slider in either direction, the lid is locked in place
7. Optional: Glue the end-stop in to prevent the slider from being removable

Disassembly

1. Move the slider to the disassembly position (notch or loose spot)
2. Pull the locking bar up
3. Slide the lid off
4. If the lid doesn't want to come off even though the slider is in the correct position, then the locking bar is likely jammed up by the lid → push the lid fully into the closed position and try again