WordCalendar 16x16 - 2024

WordClock 16x16 2024's sibling: WordCalendar. =) Solder free, USB-C, 2 fonts, even faster setup though script usage =)
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updated January 5, 2025

Description

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WordCalendar 16x16 - 2024

 

This is my “sibling model” to the WordClock 16x16 - 2024 adding the calendar function to your time piece, which to my knowledge does not exist as a WordClock like device yet. =) 

Both time pieces come in the same design to let them fit together perfectly on your desk or on your wall. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do. =)

The WordCalendar is not only a complete new device (to my knowledge) in this category which you can print one yourselves too now, it also has some more new features to set it up much more easily. 

PS: See notes below and you will get the idea why I almost wrote: “MUCH MORE EASILY”… Almost.. ;-) 

 

Here is WordCalendar next to a German WordClock 16x16 - 2024 as well as standalone too:

 

 

These languages are available in the font variants named V1 and V2:

  1. German 
  2. English
  3. Dutch
  4. French
  5. Italian
  6. Swedish
  7. Spanish

 

Special thanks for helping with the translations to:

Thanks guys and you helped me really out to learn how to speak the date in your language. Always super interesting to learn such information from you.  =)

 

Hope you all like this new model! =)

 

 

Functions and options:

  • The functions are similar but not the same to the WordClock 16x16 - 2024. 
    • Because it is a pure calendar model some more time and event related functions like the extra words and functions like the Telegram chat function were removed, because they make not really sense in this device. 
    • Most functions you know from the WordClock 16x16 models are available. =)
  • Complete new functions that are not available in the WordClock models (yet):
    • Flash the software without the need of the Arduino IDE setup and usage.
    • New scrolling texts shown more clearly to read on the complete 16x16 matrix.
    • The setup is way faster and easier to perform and I think you will like it.  =)
    • Software updates can be installed without the Arduino IDE or manual uploads right from the web configuration portal without using a computer.
  • The build options known from the WordClock 2024 models are available like:
    • Solder free build option → Yes, you do not need to solder if you like not to do so!
    • Sliding case that can very easily be opened again if needed
    • Fully automatic installation of the ESP32 software via script. You just need to select the project and let the script upload the code. See the progress in the video below.
    • USB-C port for power input. This ensures more stable power with the better USB-A to USB-C cables available to avoid many of your power issues. 
    • The 2 known WordClock 16x16 - 2024 fonts for the front are available here too. 
    • New ESP32 usage with USB-C with better power options, also to avoid many issues.
    • Better higher intensity usage, because the LED Matrix is directly powered now. No poor dying ESP32 boards anymore due to too bright colors and/or to high intensity values…
    • Easy assembly like counting 1,2,3 with detailed descriptions below. It seems more complicated at first, but you will get it easily done or can't you count 1,2,3? ;-)
    • Many hints inside the case to help you with the setup.
    • The known video instructions to setup WiFi are still valid. 
    • FAQ section to most asked questions listed below.

 

Notes:

  • 15.11.2024: 
    • Release of software V1.1.0 bringing 2 new features: =)
      • Offline mode integrated
      • Smart Home integration to e.g. turn off the device when you’re not at home. Just use the link in the web configuration to see how it works to add the 3 new URLs to your smart home environment.
    • Please use the ESP32 flash script to update your device. 
       
  • 17.11.2024: Release of software update V1.2.0 adding 1 totally new feature:
    • Direct web software update without the need of the Arduino IDE or manual upload.
    • It has also some minor changes:
      • Text correction due to user feedback in French. “IL EST” text is removed.
      • The device starts now faster too. 
    • Please use (1 last time) the ESP32 flash script to update your device to this new version. Once V1.2.0 is installed, you can update in future without a computer. 😎
    • Watch the video to see how it will work in future:

 

  • 05.01.2025: You will now find the ESP32 flash script as a variant of the known MS Windows script for the usage in macOS too. Thanks a lot to John (Rave Props) @JohninNL_289006 for adding this macOS variant! This should make it even more simple to setup the project for macOS users. =)

 

 

Integrated web configuration interface:

  • This WordCalendar can be used in "Online Mode" with WiFi usage or in "Offline Mode" without the need of a local WiFi. In both modes you will be able to use an internal configuration portal to configure your WordCalendar. See video below. =)

 


Setup the code for the WordCalendar:

  • Follow this video to get used to the usage: 

 

Code Download:

  • The script to upload the code can be downloaded from my GitHub repository.
  • See the FAQ section too for more details to the code software. 

 

FAQ:

  • Q: “Can I use a smaller power supply like 5V/1A or 5V/2A?
    • A: Do NOT use 5V/2A or even 5V/1A ones to avoid damage to your environment!

 

  • Q: “Why is it not possible to use a USB-C power supply directly?
    • A: The honest answer is, that it was planned to be used with a USB-C power supply directly, but it simply does not work. Most USB-C power supplies “communicate” with the plugged in device and then turn their power on. This is not possible with the WordCalendar. So this is why a USB-A power supply with a USB-A-to-USB-C cable is required. You will find 2 very good ones in the parts list.
    • A: There is an advantage to this anyway. Because such USB-A-to-USB-C cables seem to have a better standard, they work much better than the previously used Micro-USB cables. 

 

  • Q: “Can I use my old ESP8266 boards instead of the named ESP32?
    • A: No ESP8266 usage possible, because of its too low specs. 

 

  • Q: “Why isn’t the circuit done like with the previous models over the USB cable only?
    • A: That often lead to some poor grilled ESP32 boards when the LED intensity was set to high and too much current was routed through the ESP32 to the LED matrix. That also seems to happen due to user reports often too, when other code sketches like WLED or others were “tested”… After some time or directly depending on the set color and intensity this caused some of these boards to die. As this seems to be an issue for some users and even I never experienced this myself, I wanted to make the circuit better. 
    • A: The 2nd reason is that I wanted to try a solder free variant and so it was even more simple to save these poor little boards from dying on their job. =)

 

  • Q: “Where do I need to set the color changes and how are these changes done?
    • A: See printing instructions below please. You will find a manual and details.
    • A: Consider using Prusa Slicer even for your non-Prusa 3D printer too. =)

 

  • Q: “Do I really need to print with black filament?” 
    • A: Yes, to avoid light shining through to the other letters this is required or lets say at leased it is required as light blocker. You can add other, lighter colors to the first front part layers if you wish to, but you have to have this light blocking black layers. For the matrix part of the front it is mandatory to use black too.

 

  • Q: “Can I use transparent PLA instead of the named white filament for the diffusor?
    • A: Tests showed that this is not ideal, because such transparent filament will route light to other cells of the matrix that should not be lit at that time or in that color.

 

  • Q: “I cannot read the on the display shown IP-address. What is my IP-address?
    • A: Just step away 1-2 meters from WordCalendar during startup to be able to read it. The new scrolling text function should help with this too.

 

  • Q: “Why is the software not provided as self to compile code to run in Arduino IDE?
    • A: Although I created scripts for setting up the Arduino IDE, automatically download and install needed libraries and spend a lot of time to give you a setup option as easy as possible, it seems to be still way to complicated for many users. Thats why you have the new script to download and flash the code for you now as precompiled .BIN files now. I had so many messages from users each week that did not (fully) follow the already quiete simple instructions and the only possible way for me is to make this as easy as possible and not provide the more complicated way anymore.
    • A: By giving you the precompiled code you can be sure that this is tested and will work with the named components, which should be a big benefit. =)
    • A: And YES, i know, that other ESP32 boards might not work with these precompiled code files, but I honestly have to say, that this is a ≤5€ or ≤5$ problem and I perform this here as a hobby and cannot support many different ESP32 variants anyway… I guess you will understand this, that I cannot and will not spent more time on this when it can be fixed with buying such a cheap ESP32 fitting to the project.

 

  • Q: “In Offline Mode the from the device created WiFi access point requires a password, which I don’t know. What is this password and does the configuration page open automatically when connecting to this internal access point?
    • A: “The password is ‘Matrix-16x16’ and in case the configuration page doesn’t open up properly on your device (mostly heard of on Android devices) just connect to the WiFi and then open your browser on ‘http://192.168.4.1’. Once saved to your device the password should be stored and you not need to enter it again anymore. This password was added to make the device more secure for example if you want to use it on your work environment without access to a regular WiFi.” 

 

Printing instructions:

  • No supports needed for all parts.
  • Using a brim was not needed in my tests, because I cleaned my textured sheet with dishwashing liquid carefully with a new sponge and then with isopropanol alcohol again on the printer to make the parts stick really good. If you face problems with adhesion feel free to add a 5mm brim to the front and lid part.
  • 0.2 speed profile used. You can print in 0.3 but it was not needed for my printers.
  • Textured sheet used:
    • If you use a textured sheet too, let it cool down completely after the print and wait for the part gets loose by itself. Do not pull on it to avoid ripping off the letters! 
    • In my case it takes 45-60 minutes after the print has ended and the part just lays loose on the print bed.
    • Do not touch the print bed and clean it with Isopropanol alcohol before printing.
  • The option “Avoid crossing perimeters” was set active for the front parts in Prusa Slicer.
  • The 4 screws should be printed with 30-50% infill just in case you need to screw them in a little harder. I could use 15% infill good as well. 
  • IMPORTANT: 
    • Two (2) color changes in the front part from black to white and to black again are required at about 1.2mm and 2.6mm height to create the diffuser layer. Why “at about”? Well it depends on your layer height:
      • 0.2mm = Changes at 1.2mm + 2.6mm
    • Color changes are done in this order:
      • 1st color = black = layer 0 to 1.2
      • 2nd color = white = layers 1.3mm to 2.6mm
      • 3rd color = black = layers 2.7mm to the end of the print
    • To read how such a color change is done, you will find a really good article here.

 

Parts needed:

 

Tools needed:

 

Wiring: 

  • Connecting the parts for this WordCalendar is as easy as possible.
  • You may need to solder or connect solder free 3 connections only to the ESP32.
  • The small holders in the lid can be used for a small cable ties to secure the cables.
  • Have a look into the pictures how to arrange the LED matrix in the front part to ensure that the direction of the LEDs is correct.
  • In case you want to solder, the only change compared to the solder free variant would be to solder the 3 wires to the ESP instead of using the named plugged cables. Details will not be described here due the connections are the same as for the solder free variant. The Wago clamps would be used in this case too, because they are really handy to use…
  • Please check the table which pins are connected for the project as well as the pictures:
USB-C port:ESP32:LED matrix:Wire color:
5VVIN5VRed
GNDGNDGNDBlack or White
 D32DINGreen

 

Here is a step by step guide how to connect all the cables:

  • With the help of the following pictures you will see how to wire the device, easy as 1,2,3:
  • Here you see all the required parts. 
  • Cut off the middle and lower cable pairs from the matrix to avoid electric short circuits. The cables at „DIN“ have to remain. The result is shown here.
  • Add the LED matrix in the orientation as shown. 
  • Next strip the 2 USB-C port wires 11mm and push it into its place in the lid. It will click in place with a bit of the force. ;-)
  • You will find a 11mm long mark in the case to help you finding the right strip length. See the upper edge in the picture above with the "11".
  • Open the 3 Wago clamps and put them into their holders in the lid as shown.
  • Remember the 1,2,3 under the clamps as:
    • 1 = red = 5V
    • 2 = black or white = GND
    • 3 = green = DIN
  • Add the 2 stripped USB-C port wires to the clamps 1 and 2 as shown and close the clamps on the used slots.
  • Add the 3 Female-Male cables like shown to the clamps and close their slots as:
    • 1 = red = 5V
    • 2 = black = GND
    • 3 = green = DIN
  • The male pin part of the cable is pushed into the clamps. 
  • Add the “female” part of the cables to the ESP32 like shown:
    • VIN = red = 5V
    • GND = black = GND
    • D32 = green = DIN
  • Carefully push the ESP32 and the 3 cables with their black posts in to the tight holder part of the lid as shown.
  • Route the 3 cables out of the small slots. 
  • Secure the ESP32 in place with the 4 M3x8 screws.
  • As last part add the with the LED matrix delivered connector to the circuit.
  • Do not forget to strip its wires 11mm too. 
  • Add the 3 last wires as shown and close the Wago clamps:
    • 1 = red = 5V
    • 2 = white = GND
    • 3 = green = DIN
  • Add the USB-C part of the USB-A-to-USB-C cable through its hole in the lid and plug it into the USB-C port like shown. 
  • If you followed all instructions carefully, checked them again and check that all clamps are closed. 
  • Please add some small cable ties to secure the cables in place. Especially the power cable should be secured in place.
  • If you haven't uploaded the code to the board yet, you should perform this action now!
  • As last action you have to do is to connect the LED matrix to its connector in the lid.
  • Now is basically your last chance to flash the code to the ESP32 before closing the lid.
  • Slide the lid carefully together with the front part as shown.
  • The lid pushes the matrix down and holds it in place. No tape or glue etc. needed.
  • Use the 3 M3x16 screws to fix the lid in place to the front. Carefully screw them in place.
  • Plug WordCalendar to its 5V/3A power supply. 
  • Follow the WiFi setup shown in this video:
  • As last step: Enjoy your new WordCalendar =)

 

Happy printing =)

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