A fully functional Eaton Fuller 18-shifts knob for sim trucking. Includes range switch, splitter and engine brake button.
The knob is designed to work with OSS-H, but is compatible with any shifter that uses a M8 rod and a 10x1 mm tube as a lever.
LINK TO OSS-H OPEN SOURCE SHIFTER by CET3d:
Hardware required:
- 2x M4x20 sunken hex barrel head screws
- 2x M4 brass inserts
- 6x M3 brass inserts (on the coupler's bottom, not shown)
- 6x M3x10 countersunk head screws (on the coupler's bottom, not shown)
- 1x PBS-110 mini pushbutton, any color
- 1x MTS-101 or MTS-102 lever switch
- 1 KCD1-2 Rocker switch
- 2x M8 DIN934 medium nuts
- some electronic 26AWG ribbon cable in 4 colors, about 50 cm each
- 3 pre-crimped JST-PH cables and some heatshrink tubes or JST-PH crimp tool + 3 male JST-PH connectors
Tools required:
- Soldering iron and tin wire
- angle grinder, bench grinder or access to a CNC milling machine
- small metal file
- small pliers
- electrician scissors
- (optional) hot glue gun
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Print all the required parts. The materials listed are just suggestions for optimal performance, but everything should work in PLA or PETG. Print with 4 perimeters minimum, and especially for the shells use the lowest layer height possible. Printing orientation is quite obvious:
- The shells should lie on the flat side, add some paint-on supports for the lever and rocker switch slots.
- The coupler is printed upside-down (stem on top), no supports but better have some brim
- The shift plate and the button lie on the larger face, no support no brim
- The range lever is printed with the lever up. No support no brim
- The pins are printed on any side.
- Take the standard rod from the OSS-H setup and with an angle grinder or a bench grinder take away the part as shown in the CUTOUT schematic.
- You can use the simplified cutout, but the rod would lose a bit more strength.
- If you have (or have a friend with) a metalworking shop, you can use a CNC machine to cut a 3x3 mm groove into the rod for best results.
- Take the 54 mm section of the 10x1 mm aluminum tube from the original OSS-H kit and grind away a section at one end as shown in the image. This will allow the cable to exit through the holes in the sides of the rocker. Take away any sharp edge with a file.
- With your solder iron, set the M3 inserts into the six holes of the coupler and the M4 into the right shell holes.
- Install the rod in the OSS-H main body, making sure the groove in the rod points toward one of the two side holes in the rocker assembly. Install the cover cap and the aluminum tube from the original set. Set the nut into the coupler and screw the coupler firmly into the rod, ensuring that at the end the flat faces points forward. The coupler should push firmly into the aluminum tube. Tighten the second nut firmly and force it to align to the first one.
- Install the switches into the LEFT SHELL. Slide the PBS-110 and the MTS-101 in place through the slot, and set the KCD-1 with its clip or a drop of hot glue. Position the engine brake button and the range lever on the switches before setting them in place, and lock the switches with the flat nuts they come with by using small pliers.
- Make sure the button is free to de-press fully and is not too loose, adjust the tightening of the nut if required.
- Make sure the lever is free to run up and down and hear the “click” of the lever switch.
- Solder the wiring harness as shown in the image. You will have one common ground line going through all three switches, and 3 separate data lines. Run them through the retainer cable hole in the left shell (just behind the MTS-101 seat. Do not leave them loose, else they will be cut during assembly!). Pass them through the coupler, through the rod and out of the holes in the rocker assembly.
- Either crimp them with the JST-PH terminals, or solder pre-crimped terminals with heatshrink.
- IMPORTANT: Make sure the common cable goes to the connector linked to the GND rail of the USB encoder. Typically it's the black wire on the pre-crimped cables but it is not a standard, so double check with a multimeter. If you crimp your own connectors, see how they align on your board and run the common ground to any pin that goes into the GND, then place one of the other wires into the remaining slot of the connector. The other two wires should go into connectors without the second (GND) wire. The common GND rail is typically the one with the pins closer to the edge of the board. See schematic.
- Set the joining pins into the left shell, set the shift plate in position and close with the right shell around the coupler. Lock the 2 M4 screws and the 6 M3 from below.
- In your truckin' sim, set the LEVER to “RANGE TOGGLE", the button to “ENGINE BRAKE” and the rocker switch to “SPLITTER”.
This model is published for free for personal use. No commercial use whatsoever is granted without previous authorization.
This project is not related to CET3D's OSS-H. It is designed to fit it or similar shifters, but it has been designed independently.
Link to the adapter flange for EG-starts encoders
Tags
The author marked this model as their own original creation.