Neo Geo AES Raspberry Pi 5 Case

This is a 50% scaled version of a Neo Geo AES turned into a Raspberry Pi 5 case. See also the cartridges and cartridge case.

v.15 (skipped a bit so my internal and external numbers match)

More bugfixes and improvements. To make sure everything works, I have 3mf files as well as STEP (which should actually work, though if you're prompted to “repair” them, use caution, holes may disappear, lol). AFAIK now everything works. There's better airflow, improved printability, some labels on the I/O plate in the back, etc.

I didn't include the SD reader block - you can grab it from a prior release, it would be unchanged, but I haven't needed it, and it may be more headache than help. I'm also deleting all the mini-cartridges included and splitting that into its own entry for ease of use.

I still need to do a build-guide and video overview, but that's to come. The modeling should be done for now (unless more bugs are found). Next step will be to make a larger case for larger SBCs and the like.

v6.2

Bugfixes! At some point I made some parts too thin, and other parts overlapped. Also, I discovered some weird, hidden geometry. This new top should fix all of that and save a bit of filament on supports if you print the "SD reader block in-place. All other parts are as for v6. 

Suggestions: Use Arachne, minimum size 5%, rest of settings default. Print the top on its back, print the base flat. Both with auto-support. If your filament or settings aren't dialed in for support, you may need to clean up some of the interfaces with a craft knife, but it shouldn't be too bad. I actually think a matte black would look amazing, and usually matte filaments have great support removal.

v6 - 

MOSTLY minor changes.

• I resculpted a few bits (the rear, mostly).
• I created a “block” to be glued in place to hold the SD card reader down. Not necessary, but it's nice. It can be printed as part of the top if you arrange it that way, but it's just as easy to put a dab of CA glue on it and attach it to the case interior over the SD card reader.
• Improved case ventilation. My Pi5 works fine even without a case fan, just the stock heatsink/fan combo. Hot, but not near throttling, at least for what I'm using it for. Still, with a case-fan mounted on the right side, temps never got above body temp. The new ventilation will be more accurate to the original Neo Geo, as well as help passive cooling.
• The Reset Button was sized wrong on the inside by .5mm internal diameter. I was able to fix my already-printed model with a craft knife shaving off a tiny bit from each side, but you won't have to with the new model.
• Some weird geometry was cleaned up, including a space in the front-right of the case bottom. 
• The power button wasn't centered correctly on the slot; now it is.
• I relocated the reset button dimple to be more accurate. I'll still have to resculpt the whole case at least once more to fix the angle on the angled section above the rear-top vents. I don't plan on angling the sides to make them injection-moldable, but I need to make the flat area on the top of the case larger.
• Fixed the cartridge - with a better reference, I realized the front and back halves are asymmetrical, and now it looks correct. Also, the top-back isn't concave for grip, it's in fact convex, and now looks much, much closer to authentic. Still working on it. Also working on making a 50% scale shockbox to house the cart.
• I fixed a bunch of crappy geometry - weird surfaces that shouldn't exist, etc. I beefed up a few very thin pieces, and I'll continue doing this sort of quality-of-life improvements.

Assuming I get my CAD software working again, this should be up within the week.

v5 - Release!

I'm satisfied with the current state of the model. 

• I've adjusted the location of the reset button, which was off. 
• I've modified the reset button (top bit) to fit and work better. 
• I added screw holes and moved them around to get the case to seal nicely and securely. 
• I simplified the front of the case (generally can't see the lettering on the front anyway), and removed the fake headphone jack. That might come back later as a REAL headphone jack, but that's easy enough to DIY with a screwdriver and the appropriate electronics.
• I modified the cartridge for ease of assembly and reliable indexing.
• I removed all text from the top - you can still get it in the older models, but “printed” text on the top wasn't very high-quality when printing the top vertically.

From here, the only things I'm planning to add in the near future are:

• A short print/build/assembly guide.
• A BoM (mostly in the description, but it'll be all in one place.
• Some files for the top text that you can use to laser engrave, create a stencil, etc.
• I made make a bottom with better ventilation for a fan air intake.

Enjoy! Everything but the bottom (which for some reason won't export properly) is in STEP format. Just use Bambu slicer or Orca slicer, import, and save as STL if you need another format, but most modern slicers can use STEP files directly. 

Also, FYI, I stink at CAD, so I'm sure this could be improved dramatically by almost anyone. Feel free!

OLD DESCRIPTIONS:

To Do:

• Make the power-button slide area “work” physically. Electronically is another problem for another day.
• Make the reset-button workable.
• Create power-in and video-out ports. I may move the Pi from the back left to another corner so I can preserve the original location of the ports from the original shell.
• Make the shells solidly fixable with screws. I've started this, but less than halfway done.
• Create ports for magnets in the cartridge bay area and modify the cartridge to allow it to be snapped in place to look approximately right.
• Modify the memory card port to accept full-size SD cards (they're almost perfectly the right size for a 50% build!).
• Modify the vent areas and create a location for an air-intake fan.
• Print and test a prototype case.

Since it's printable in principle, but not really in a workable state, I'm providing the STEP files and 3mf; I'll make sure to include an STL for anyone that prefers that when I'm done. For any parts missing, check out the original and scale them to 50% (the power slider, for example). Feel free to remix and modify to your delight.

I'll continue to modify and develop this, eventually removing the “Work-in-Progress” tag and part of the title when I'm satisfied. I'll try to get some documentation for assembly done as well, and suggestions for parts to complete, but that'll have to wait until I actually complete the darn thing. 

Enjoy!

Updates: 

v1.2 STEP file shared - many improvements.

• The Pi was moved to the back of the case to be a more “normal” design. I'll eventually move things around to make it more original, but for now, this should be OK to test. 
• The was I attach the top to the bottom needs work - The screw pegs would make printing more difficult, so I may redesign it so they can be printed separately and glued into the top shell after printing. I'm still working on this.
• I made some minor cosmetic improvements such as moving the grooves to be symmetrical to the cartridge port. It's slightly, slightly off elsewhere now, but I can live with it, and I appreciate the symmetry.
• The STEP file also seems to be missing the base, which I don't understand. I've uploaded the 3mf as well to help.

v1.3

• General fitment improvements. The rim that joins the top and bottom is now chamfered a bit, and I'm going to add further offset for space if necessary (pretty sure it will be). I've cleaned up other potential conflicts (such as a thin secondary wall in the front by the memory card slot) that prevented the case from snapping together. We're getting there!
• I actually printed the v1.2 version of this case, and that's where the improvements I'm making here are coming from. I added chamfers to areas that can now be printed attractively without supports, saving material and speeding printing. Also, the thicknesses seem good - it's rigid but not wasteful, and seems strong enough. Final printing in a more heat-resistant material may be warranted, but PLA+ for now.

v2

• Completely redone insides to clean things up - I made it solid, then carved out what I wanted. It's much, much better looking.
• I optimized some areas (the area around the cartridge bay in particular) for vertical printing without additional support - just a nice chamfer did the trick.
• I moved the cartridge bay doors up a mm, which gave more clearance for the pi, still looks good, and eases printing.
• Some minor geometry has been cleaned up.
• Printed successfully, and although the top warped slightly, it fits together snugly! I'll ultimately create different versions with and without the text, and at the moment, I'm optimizing for FDM, though resin printing would likely be easier and cleaner, not to mention giving better details, and faster (unless you're printing a relatively crude FDM version and post-processing it).
• I'm in the process of adding supports for a PCB to hold the female USB plugs, designing the PCB, etc. ULTIMATELY we'll be able to turn the Pi on and off normally with the power button acting as a trigger for a safe-shutdown script, the reset button restarting the system (or programmable to exit a game, etc.)
• The STEP file is still borked - I have no idea why the base just doesn't appear, so I'm only uploading 3mf files for now.

v3

• Added most of the inner parts. 
• The Raspberry Pi is public domain (https://www.printables.com/model/727155-raspberry-pi-5/files ). I just started using this more accurate model, so I need to modify the back-plate a bit and modify the mount (but that's all very straightforward and will be done for the next release). I'll delete the Pi from the model when all the adjusting is done.
• The USB ports are from https://grabcad.com/library/usb-connector-type-a-female-pcb-mount-1 - I can't find a reference to a license.
• The fan housing was modeled after one I used with a Raspberry Pi.
• The SD Card reader was modeled after one I bought off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1T8R46 )
• The Momentary Button is modeled after one I bought off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0858XRGYW ). It's mounted on a new bit that needs to be shortened to allow for a full press, and interfaces with an improved button.
• I still need to modify the power switch and design some way to mount it.
• STEP file is probably still weird - it shows normal in some apps, but not in Orca Slicer, for instance. 
• When I get the next version out I'll split all the bits for easier printing, and I'll have a printable cartridge that can be stuck in the slot with magnets).

v4 - Release Candidate (almost there!)

• Refined the interface between top and bottom.
• Made some places for the top and bottom to be screwed together (I'm using M1.7 self-tapping screws).
• General improvements to the hardware mounts. Still have some work to do, but we're getting there.
• The power slider works. The reset button is a bit stiff - I want to improve the range of motion, meaning the mount needs to be shortened a tiny bit.
• I'll be re-organizing and renaming files, but this should be everything one needs to assemble.
• I need to test-mount the fan to the case, but haven't been able to yet. Low priority ATM, since I'm just trying to get it to fit together nicely and work, period.
• Added new photos. The cartridge has locations marked for 8mm magnets to be glued. I printed a label I found online on regular paper, then shellacked it and glued it down with CA. Turned out reasonably nice.
• For printability I got rid of the “feet” - I need to include them in the next release, as well as some “assembled” examples for people to look at, and documentation for assembly and setup.

Changes:

• 50% scale
• Turned into a shell
• Replaced controller ports with USB port holes
• Created mounting pegs and a frame to space them to mount the RPi5. Using this, I'll be able to create additional frames and pegs to mount a RPi4, Zero, whatever you'd like.
• Added extra ventilation.