Classic Chess staunton nº6

Staunton Nº6

Heighs and diameter of each piece:

•    King: 95x39mm
•    Queen: 86x38mm
•    Bishop: 81.5x34mm
•    Knight: 71.5x34mm (without the ears)
•    Rook: 64x36mm
•    Pawn: 58x30mm

All pieces have their base apart so you can add weighs, electronics, etc... I use lead for the weight to reach "2 gauges weighted chess pieces" so the available space inside is enough for 1 and 2 gauges, 3 gauges will be overkill so not going to fit inside. If you want to follow my way, you need to weight each pieces and then weight the right amount of lead and add it to the base.

•    SINGLE WEIGHTING: Between 1 - 2 oz.
•    DOUBLE WEIGHTING: Between 2 - 3 oz.
•    TRIPLE WEIGHTING: Between 3 -4 oz.
•    QUADUPLE WEIGHTING: Between 4 -5 oz.

For example, with my print settings, my pla, coating and paint my king weight is 22 grams I'm going for double weighted so 2.5oz, so I need 48.9 grams of lead for my king.

The height of each piece is proportional to the king's height, so the weight. Do the mat by yourself to get the weight of each piece for the desired gauge.

By the way, a proper chess board for a Staunton nº6 has 50mm to 60mm (2-2.4 inches) squares.

Recommendations
 

2 versions uploaded:

•    Full model: the whole thing, for those that have multiple extruder with incompatible materials for print and support so they can print the overhangs with precisions and quality or for those where the quality is not the point here.
•    Sliced models: all pieces are sliced in order to minimize supports and time (of course u will need to glue the pieces back).

Recommended slicer resolution for the slicer, at least, 0.2mm, 0.1 or less recommended for accurate results if your printer support it, note: Slicer resolution IS NOT the layer height,

These are pieces for playing, so they will fall to the ground very often :D . Print it with, at least, 2mm walls and top bottom for stronger pieces.

The pieces are designed to have (where it fits) a 2,8mm thickness so if you are using a 0.4 nozzle u will be 2 infill perimeters and 5 outer wall perimeters at the inside and outside if you follow my advice of 5 outside wall perimeters, the same is applied to the top and bottom walls. This will ensure a strong fall prof pieces

My personal choice due I have a single extruder printer, so I can't use supports for overhangs and maintain the visual quality at the same time is the sliced version. Also, I sanded, filled and painted all pieces so the gaps where the sliced pieces join together disappeared.

It is up to you how you want to print this.

The End:

For those that are curious about the lead weight, it is pretty easy. After measure how much lead I need... for example, a King, I glued to the side inner wall of the king little spherical fishing leads, and then I use a piece of pipe that match the diameter of the base gap at the center as mold to fill with molten lead to reach the remaining weight needed.

And yes, work with molten lead is dangerous, so don't do that if you don't know what are you doing.

My final touch for each piece is a fine sand to remove imperfections, then filler to remove gaps and layer marks. The next step is absolutely optional and maybe an overkill, paint it with a very fine layer of epoxy resin (It will be wise to dry all pieces before the first coat of epoxy), sand it, repeat 3 times and polish (at the inside I simply painted with 1 coat of epoxy and nothing else)... This will produce a perfect polish surfaces and protect the pla from degradation (PLA degrades very fast overtime with sun and moisture). Then primer and paint.

It took me a very long time to model all pieces, to improve the geometry, to optimize printing times and quality, test, tons of printing failures, etc... Pls if you post this abroad internet, at least, give the credit to me :D

Cya all.