The Legend Of Zelda Fierce Deity Sword

I made a small change to the original full size, 5 ft., model and increased the thickness of the blade edge from 0 to 0.5mm for parts 5-13.  It didn't change the look of the sword at all and isn't even noticeable, but it fixed an issue I was having with some pieces were OrcaSlicer would put a hole in the model due to the thin walls at connection points.

This was printed with a 0.4 nozzle at 0.16mm layers.  Layer height can probably be increased, but if you increase the nozzle size I would recommend keeping your line width between 0.4 and 0.45 mm to prevent the slicer from adding those holes.

I didn't adjust any of the fittings which was another issue I had.  They fit really tight or sometimes not at all without a lot of sanding.

Tips:

• Check each sliced piece before printing for artifacts like holes.  If they are there try decreasing your line width.
• Print all pieces upright with the male peg on the printer bed whenever possible.  With reduces the need for supports and model scaring.  It is also much easier to remove supports from the male end than the female end.
• You'll need to do some power sanding on the fittings to get some pieces together so print with extra walls.
• The tip of the sword is quite thin so be mindful of it so it doesn't break.
• At the size it is if you print with the same infill the full length of the sword it will be very top heavy and not well balanced.  Try printing it with more infill and strength toward the bottom of the sword and reduce it as you get to the tip, or use some other method of adding weight to the hilt and other lower pieces.  

Increased the thickness of the blade edge from 0 to 0.5mm on parts 5-13 to increase the thickness of the walls.  This solved and issue where slicers would put holes in the model due to thin walls.