SE Mini - Desktop Case for Macintosh SE or SE/30

If you're like me, you've got a lot of computer logic boards lying around without a case or chassis to use them in.  As these things get older the plastic parts can be harder to come by.  This case along with a few modern boards can turn an old logic board into a delightful retro machine that never was!  This is where me and my friend Ron (yes, that Ron! The one from Ron's Computer Videos!) are so we decided to do something about it!

If you enjoy my stuff and feel like showing your support in a financial way, please feel free to donate to me on my ko-fi page.  I make this stuff for fun, but a little scratch can make it even more fun :D

https://ko-fi.com/gutbomb57331

What is this thing?

Well, simply put this is a replacement case for a Macintosh SE and SE/30 that turns it into a small desktop computer that you can connect a modern display to. Plus, it's created in the spirit of community so it's all freely expandable by people like you!

How do I build this thing?

Great question! The simple answer is that this case is split into 4 main pieces.  The bottom, the top, the back, and the internal drive tray.  Each of these pieces is a bit too big for most 3d printers so they're each split into 4 pieces with tabs and slots that you can connect with glue (like those old car models I used to build as a kid).  Once each piece is glued together the thing screws together like a regular computer case.  I've also made the case pieces available in  a combined form for folks that have printers large enough to handle it.

All of the files are available as STL or STEP files, depending upon which you want to use.  Many modern slicers now can use step files, which can be higher resolution, so if you haven't tried it before, give it a whirl!

As for printing, I use OrcaSlicer and I use tree supports.  These models were designed to not have to use a lot of support material and be generally easy to print, but some supports did end up needing to be used.  I find tree supports the easiest to remove.  OrcaSlicer also has the “lay on surface” feature to orient your models on any of the flat surfaces. for the case-bottom pieces I just have the bottom lay flat on the print bed.  Same for the drive tray pieces.  For the top I flip them and have the top lay on the bed.  This can lead to a lot of unnecessary support material in the “lines” of the case that can be hard to remove.  You don't need these, so I recommend setting supports to “tree (manual)” and then using the support painting feature in OrcaSlicer to only paint supports for the areas that really need them.

If you plan on using a floppy drive you'll need to print the SE Mini - Drive Tray Right model. If you also plan on using a bluescsi you'll need a SE Mini - Drive Tray Left and 3 SE Mini - BlueSCSI Boss models. These are the little cylinders that elevate the BlueSCSI into the proper position for the front-mounted SD card slot.

You'll also need to print the interrupt and reset buttons and slide them into place before placing the logic board in the case.  If you want to use the bluescsi activity LED you'll also want to print the SE Mini - Light Pipe model. 

Once the plastic parts are ready it's time to get out the soldering iron and melt some heat set threaded inserts into all the screw bosses.  Once that's done, drop the logic board and other electronic components in there, connect all the wiring, and start messing around with your new old Mac desktop!

On my Ender 3 v3 SE this takes a couple days to print all the pieces, and it takes about half of a spool of filament to print everything.

What parts am I going to need?

Here's a list of the parts you'll want to stuff in here.

Fasteners

All of the screws are M2.5 4mm. you need 32 of them https://a.co/d/7hUqyN7
you'll also need 30 m2.5x4 brass heat set inserts for the screws https://a.co/d/0iE5lzwn 

Electronic Parts

• Macintosh SE or SE/30 logic board (SE/30 board works but the ROM and RAM SIMMs stick up too high to fit the floppy drive or internal bluescsi in the case.  Works great with an external bluescsi and floppy drive though!)
• speaker from an SE or SE/30 (Classic, Plus, 512k, 128 speakers will work too, but these can be harder to salvage)
• Pico PSU https://a.co/d/0dDMcl2p (this also comes with the barrel jack)
• Generic 12v power supply https://a.co/d/05yE92zM
• Power switch https://a.co/d/0gHz8MoP
• Internal BlueSCSI v2 https://jcm-1.com/product/bluescsi-v2-50-pin-desktop/
• One 5mm led for the bluescsi activity light

For video output there are two options.  My preferred option is to use the ATX Breakout / MacPicoVid from Ron's Computer Videos which combines the Pico PSU power input and also provides VGA output via a Raspberry Pi Pico.  The other option is to go with the RGBtoHDMI which provides an HDMI output.

If you go with the Ron's Computer Videos ATX Breakout / Pico Video Adapter you will need

• Ron's Computer Videos ATX Breakout / MacPicoVid https://jcm-1.com/product/se-combo-macpicovid-edition/
• print the SE Mini - Back Left VGA (or SE Mini - Back Combined VGA if your printer is big enough) model for the back left plate

if you go with the RGBtoHDMI you will need

• Ron's Computer Videos SE-Combo Board https://jcm-1.com/product/se-combo-idc12/
• Raspberry Pi Zero (don't get these on amazon. get them from an official raspi seller. it will be cheaper)
• RGBtoHDMI https://retrohackshack.com/product/rgbtohdmi/ these are always on backorder, but backorders are never long. You can also build your own (https://github.com/hoglet67/RGBtoHDMI?tab=readme-ov-file)
• Right Angle Mini HDMI to HDMI Adapter https://a.co/d/05Y7PGUY Right angle is important.
• Panel Mount HDMI Extension https://a.co/d/0hyxtBFF (you'll need two longer m3 screws for this than it comes with)
• print the print the SE Mini - Back Left HDMI (or SE Mini - Back Combined HDMI if your printer is big enough) model for the back left plate

How was this built?

This case was designed in OnShape and the source files are available for you to view or edit according to the CC-BY-NC-SA license (in short, you can use this model as a base for whatever you want as long as what you make is not for commercial purposes and whatever you make needs to be shared with the same license this one is, and you've gotta mention somewhere that your thing is based on my thing). This license only covers the 3d printed parts here, all of the electronic parts have their own license terms.

The Onshape project is here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/3ff939f11418baa79e02b8d3/w/cb5ded0195d17a070211920d/e/7f4c9e153eeeb0ea0a67b7ed