This is a Hemera upgrade set of parts for an ender 3 X carriage with a cable chain mount.
It is designed around my Anycubic Chiron where the X Carriage was not made correctly and therefore could not be tightened onto the extrusion. This lead me to replace it with a generic Ender 3 X Carriage bought from Aliexpress Mellow (though there are many others).
I have not tested this on an ender 3, and so cannot guarantee that it will not lose some build plate space, however, the dimensional differences from the original nozzles placement and the new nozzle placement are pictured.
Cloned From Thingyverse
Secure Hemera mount with 4 bolts minimum holding each part in place. Designed with E3D Bolt length guidance in mind
Nozzle Camera Mount
+ Fits 7mm standard cheapo nozzle camera with measured dimensions of 7.32 mm Diameter and 38.2 mm Length
+ Secures camera non-destructively with 3 zip-ties
+ Within focus range of most of these cameras at 40mm away from the nozzle tip
+ Minimal camera blockage from duct
+ 4mm higher than nozzle
+ Built in cable relief
+ Requires supports (Though you can make overhangs printable in some slicers if you really really don't like supports)
+ dual sided ducts
+ single 5015
+ Allows for high quality overhangs tested up to 65 degrees on my printer with a 0.6 nozzle and 0.7 line widths
+ Adjustable with slots
+ Requires some supports, but not excessively so.
+ Stops cable chain from knocking into reverse bowden tube or filament
+ Simple part requiring no supports with a small bridge
Backplate and Hemera plate
1 x 5015 Fan of the correct voltage for your printer (For my Chiron this was 24v)
5 x small zip ties (no wider than ~2.5mm and no thicker than 2mm)
1 x ANTCLABS BLTouch 3.1
1 x Generic USB 7mm endoscope camera with appropriately lengthy cable. You want one with a resistive spinning slider for the light so that it does not reset every time you reboot your pi. Notes
For the bolts using washers, you can likely just use 10mm bolts in their place. I just didn't have 10mm bolts at the time. Double check though if you aren't using washers, because I obviously did not test that with mine.
Follow the images showing part orientations.
The Nozzle Cam Mount requires supports, though you may be able to use a slicer feature to make overhangs printable if you absolutely positively hate supports. Pro tip: reduce line width (to about 2/3rds normal) and support interface density (to about 50% for instance) to have easy to remove supports without needing to resort to increasing distance.
Hemera Mounting Instructions
+ You can use a bolt to pull them in. a clamp, any hard surface, or an arbor press.
+ They should be tight enough that they don't fall out, but you can also just glue them in place with anything that doesn't gum up the threads like a little tiny bit of super glue on the outside.
+ [**DO NOT USE LONGER OR SHORTER BOLTS. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.** Follow E3Ds recommendation here. Longer bolts are likely to crack your Hemera. All plates attached to the Hemera in my design are 5mm or 5.2mm. This is within E3D Guidance for bolt length for the application. Read this link for more information, and heed this warning.](https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014202318-Hemera-Bracket-Design-Guide)
+ 10mm bolts may work here, but I did not have them on hand to check
+ You can use a bolt to pull them in. a clamp, any hard surface, or an arbor press.
+ They should be tight enough that they don't fall out, but you can also just glue them in place with anything that doesn't gum up the threads like a little tiny bit of super glue on the outside.
+ [**DO NOT USE LONGER OR SHORTER BOLTS. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.** Follow E3Ds recommendation here. Longer bolts are likely to crack your Hemera. All plates attached to the Hemera in my design are 5mm or 5.2mm. This is within E3D Guidance for bolt length for the application. Read this link for more information, and heed this warning.](https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014202318-Hemera-Bracket-Design-Guide)
+ Note: I personally use a retracting keychain glued to a basement support beam to hold the cable up separate to the rest of my cable look due to its size. It may or may not fit in your cable room, so I am mentioning this other option.
Short answer: No.
Long Answer: I looked into it briefly but its too much work to rework the design for something I'm not using. Fusion dependencies and what not. Id basically be redesigning the duct part (Which would take a lot of time and I wouldn't feel comfortable unless I tested it myself, which would also take time) or poorly enlarging the slots, and I don't think that would look very good.
- Does this have a place for a homing switch/endstop on the X axis?
No. I planned to use sensorless homing and didn't need it, so I didn't add it.
Misc
Printer Brand:
Anycubic
Printer:
Large Size Chiron
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.2mm Layer Height, 0.4mm Nozzle (I used a 0.6 nozzle)
Infill:
15% (whatever you usually use is probably fine)
Filament: 3D Printing Canada PLA (Though PETG or other temperature resistant materials are probably better) Transperant
Notes:
Print whatever you feel is sturdy. I went 5 walls, and 6 top bottom layers.
I actually used a CR6 to print most of the parts, but did print some of them on the anycubic Chiron its for. The Chiron stock is probably not worth your time, but it's my sunk cost fallacy fixer upper.
The modified Chiron now has:
Klipper with Input shaper using a ADXL345 Accelerometer and Seeeduino Xiao to control it. Thus far I can print at 1000mm/s/s Acceleration at 100mm/s regularly
Category: 3D Printer Parts
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.