Creality Ender 3 v3se X linear rail.

This modification was made by me with the purpose of switching from wheels to a linear rail, with minimal modifications, so that the printer would work with the stock firmware.

AT YOUR OWN RISK

for this modification you will need

• tool from the kit
• screwdriver
• drill units 3.5-4mm and 8-10mm
• T-nuts  M3 - 5pcs.
• Lithium grease 

https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005004157015035.html?spm=a2g2w.orderdetail.0.0.10014aa6mGg0mt&sku_id=12000028225262168

• linear rail MGN9H 300mm

https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005004522136528.html?spm=a2g2w.orderdetail.0.0.61cf4aa6RM5dRG&sku_id=12000029462666095

• countersunk head screw m3x8 -10pcs m3x6(or less) - 4 pcs 
• nuts m3 - 6 pcs.
• printed part

Printed part is holder for rail

Place it with its single flat side facing down, turn 45deg so that the part fits exactly under the heater, otherwise the edges may be torn off PETG

infill 35% cubic, 4 walls no supports 

turn off the printer.
We disassemble everything down to the mounting plate.
for now we just unscrew all the screws and disconnect the connectors if necessary

unscrew the wheels, remove the belts

To do this, loosen the tensioner, the screw on the right side of the beam

After this we install the rail with the printed part on the frame

Just screw it in the middle, with four bolts, two on the edges.
And hook it with T nuts to the profile.

So that the rail is the entire width of the portal

we make markings on the frame to drill 3.5-4 mm holes so that we can screw it to the carriage

This is the most important moment, you need to drill holes very precisely (or as it turns out in my case) to get the screws in later

Using a larger drill unit, we make a seat for the screw head, and assemble everything as strait as possible!

Dont forget belts.

Next I would say we assemble everything step by step in reverse order but...
In the picture below it is better to seal the contacts with electrical tape.

in my case, there is no short circuit, but it makes me sleep better

Before starting the printer, move the head to the limit switch, check if it hits the bar, check that everything moves smoothly and does not touch anything.

lubricate the rail with lithium bearing grease.

If you haven't done this before, which is strange, change the thermal barrier to a bimetallic one at the same time. if you have it.

As soon as you turn on the printer, run a full calibration, because after assembly and disassembly the z offset will change.

this is how it should look and here is the first print

Best regards.