K1 Cartographer bracket and cover with no overhangs

I used the original model as a reference for dimensions. There are many differences from the original model. Thanks to the Bootycall Jones. 

I had trouble getting a good print of the original model. The overhangs and bridges were hard for my printer. The M2 heat insert holes were too big for the Ruthex M2 heat inserts I had on hand. I don't like using machine screws smaller than M3 if I can avoid it. Screws smaller than M3 are hard for me to source locally and the heads more prone to stripping because of the smaller hex pattern. 

I also noticed that the original model would not allow one to remove the sensor PCBs without either cutting wires, desoldering connections, or cutting the bracket. The original model also required that some soldering be done with the Cartographer PCBs mounted in the bracket. This new design allows removal of the sensor PCBs simply by removing the cover. All soldering can be done free and clear of the bracket. 

Some notable differences:

• modifications to allow removal of probe PCBs without cutting wires or cutting bracket
• the modifications above allow for soldering of the wires away from the bracket
• removed all tricky overhangs and bridges
• changed to using M3 heat inserts and machine screws to hold the cover
• lots of chamfers and fillets to allow successful printing even on a printer that is not well-tuned
• heat insert holes are through holes when possible, allowing for easy removal of any melted plastic chaff created when installing the heat inserts

Revised BOM:

• five M3 heat inserts.
• two M2 heat inserts. I used Ruthex, but generic will probably also work.
• two 10mm long M2 machine screws. I recommend socket head screws because the hex pattern in socket head cap screws is larger than in equivalent button head or flat head screws. 
• two 4-8mm long button head M3 machine screws to mount the curvy Cartographer PCB
• three 4-8 mm long flat head M3 machine scres to secure the cover. You could probably use button head machine screws if you don't have flat head screws on hand. The heads of the flat head screws will poke out of the counterbore by a couple tenths of a mm. The only way around this would be to make the cover thicker and heavier.
• a few inches of thin wire. I used 24 AWG solid copper wire. Thin stranded wire would probably also work. 

Generic M2 inserts have a slightly larger outside diameter than the Ruthex units. They will probably still work fine in this application. 

Printing tips: 

Print the bracket with the base on the print bed. No supports are needed. Print the cover face down. No postprocessing should be needed for either part. 

I added a second version of the cover with embossed Cartographer logos. I use 0.6mm nozzles with 0.3mm layer height and 0.65-0.9mm line widths, so the details in the Cartographer logo wouldn't work for my printer setup. 

I used the original model as a reference for dimensions. There are many differences. Thanks to the Bootycall Jones for the original model. 

I had trouble getting a good print of the original model. The overhangs and bridges were hard for my printer. The M2 heat insert holes were too big for the Ruthex M2 heat inserts I had on hand. I don't like using machine screws smaller than M3 if I can avoid it. Screws smaller than M3 are hard for me to source locally and the heads more prone to stripping because of the smaller hex pattern. 

I also noticed that the original model would not allow one to remove the sensor PCBs without either cutting wires, desoldering connections, or cutting the bracket. The original model also required that some soldering be done with the Cartographer PCBs mounted in the bracket. This new design allows removal of the sensor PCBs simply by removing the cover. All soldering can be done free and clear of the bracket. 

Some notable differences:

• modifications to allow removal of probe PCBs without cutting wires or cutting bracket
• the modifications above allow for soldering of the wires away from the bracket
• removed all tricky overhangs and bridges
• changed to using M3 heat inserts and machine screws to hold the cover
• lots of chamfers and fillets to allow successful printing even on a printer that is not well-tuned
• heat insert holes are through holes when possible, allowing for easy removal of any melted plastic chaff created when installing the heat inserts

Revised BOM:

• five M3 heat inserts.
• two M2 heat inserts. I used Ruthex, but generic will probably also work.
• two 10mm long M2 machine screws. I recommend socket head screws because the hex pattern in socket head cap screws is larger than in equivalent button head or flat head screws. 
• two 4-8mm long button head M3 machine screws to mount the curvy Cartographer PCB
• three 4-8 mm long flat head M3 machine scres to secure the cover. You could probably use button head machine screws if you don't have flat head screws on hand. The heads of the flat head screws will poke out of the counterbore by a couple tenths of a mm. The only way around this would be to make the cover thicker and heavier.
• a few inches of thin wire. I used 24 AWG solid copper wire. Thin stranded wire would probably also work. 

Generic M2 inserts have a slightly larger outside diameter than the Ruthex units. They will probably still work fine in this application. 

Printing tips: 

Print the bracket with the base on the print bed. No supports are needed. Print the cover face down. No postprocessing should be needed for either part. 

I added a second version of the cover with embossed Cartographer logos. I use 0.6mm nozzles with 0.3mm layer height and 0.65-0.9mm line widths, so the details in the Cartographer logo wouldn't work for my printer setup.