High pressure PC fan (low power tesla turbine)

An attempt at high static pressure centrifugal fan

This design can be categorized as a single-disc tesla turbine. It's purpose is to serve as intermediate between turbine fans and positive displacement pumps. It's designed for pumping air in restrictive environments such as narrow tubes and pipes (<10mm diameter).  It pushes about 5mm of water height, which is on par with ideal axial fan designs. (Major hardware's table lists the top axial fan pressure measurement at 3.4mm)
This design is meant to push pressure with the anemic power of commonly found fans from PC parts, without the noise and low airflow of geared positive displacement pump mechanisms
 

This is an alternative shrouding for a 120MM+ fan. These fans are commonly found as PC power supply fans. PC case fans are to be avoided, as many of them use an 80mm fan motor in a 120-140mm fan frame. You have to strip away the blades and the outer part of the original frame and smooth-out the cylindrical surface of the rotor. 

The current design assumes a rotor diameter of 40mm and a tolerance gap of 0.25+0.25mm. The outlet port has diameter of 6 and 10 mm (inner vs outer). You will need 4 generic self-threading screws for plastic assemblies. Outer-most diameter of the threaded section has to be 3mm with thread spacing of about 1mm. The final design also has 2 additional places for screws to allow mounting to external components. These holes are spaced at 70mm center-to-center. You can read dimensions and alter the design using the provided .f3d project or even perform basic shape modifications on the .stl files in prusaslicer. All models are mostly FDM optimised, except for the exhaust port pipe piece, as you might need to use it as a normal circular pipe. Otherwise you can leave the supports in place. The top cover bolt holes will also use up some supports, as the current design is flawed. These holes should have been moved to start from the plane of the print surface and the cylinders of the chasis piece should have been extruded a few mm to close up the gap. 

After you print the components you need to screw in and glue some parts. The de-framed motor has to be glued in place using epoxy resin or molten failed prints of the same material as the chasis. The outer gap between the chasis and top cover has to be sealed with anything highly viscous and capable of drying. In the example pictures provided I've filled the gap with acetone-molten ABS, as the parts are printed from ABS. You can use old epoxy resins, molten failed prints, silicone, playdoh, toothpaste or anything else similar. The turbine disc (rotor) is designed to fit a few layers of polypropylene sticky tape placed as tolerance shims on the de-bladed motor rotor.
 

The theory behind this design is an attempt at spinning up as small mass of air as possible at the longest radius possible. The radius is limited by practical size constraints and parasitic loss from air drag on the disc without entering the outlet port chamber. The gap of the outlet port chamber within which the disc spins is deliberately tight, as to restrict the air flow volume to minimum and allow the small entering volumes to speed up as much as possible and encounter slight resistance if attempting to return back to the intake area.