AirTag Mount for Onewheel Pint X / S

I wanted to hide an Apple AirTag inside my Onewheel Pint S somehow, so I took it apart, identified the best location, and this is what I came up with.

I had two goals in mind for this project: 1) Find a spot within the Pint X / S where an AirTag would fit that did not require excessive disassembly and/or require opening/disassembling parts that would or could potentially void the warranty, and 2) design a mount for it that will fit in said spot, if such a spot even exists. Fortunately, there's just enough room under the front footpad above where the motor and footpad sensors connect to the control box (in fact, the mount attaches to the cable connectors themselves) for an AirTag inside a protective case/mount. Success!

Printing Instructions:

• PETG or PETG Carbon Fiber are my recommendations for material selection.
• Nozzles larger than 0.4mm will probably not work well, if at all.
• Use a 0.15mm layer height (smaller should also work, but I don't recommend using a layer height larger than 0.15mm).
• Print the lid with the flat surface facing the print bed. The base is printed with the opening for the AirTag facing the print bed, cable brackets facing up, and therefore requires some support.
• Use paint on supports to support the areas indicated in the screenshot below. Use smart fill and set the smart fill angle to 10º to select just the areas you see in the screenshot.
• Use the “snug” style supports.

Installation Instructions:

1. (Optional) Clean your board in preparation for the AirTag/mount installation.
2. Starting with the board on its back/upside down, remove the four (or six, depending on which bumpers you have installed) screws from the underside of the front bumper.
3. Flip the board upright and remove the two screws securing the front footpad.
4. Lift the front footpad and lay it against the wheel, exposing the control box and the small area where the motor and pressure pads connect to the control box.
5. Drop your AirTag inside the mount/container and pop on the lid. Make sure to leave the left edge of the mount/container clear of any of the three tabs on the lid, otherwise the mount won't fit in the designated space correctly, if at all (see photo below for proper lid orientation).
   
   
    
6. Align the connector clips on the mount with the recesses on the cable connectors just behind each connector's lock collar/nut and gently press the mount/clips over the cable connectors until it pops into position (see photo below).
   
   
    
7. Place the front footpad back into position and reinstall and tighten the two screws for the top side of the footpad. Remember: do not over-tighten the screws! I've found 15 in-lb (1.7 Nm) is sufficient.
8. Flip the board over, reinstall and tighten the remaining screws for the front bumper.
9. Get back to rippin' around on that thing with a little peace of mind, knowing that if some low-life degenerate attempts to abscond with your expensive, hard-earned board, there's at least some hope of tracking it down and getting it back (but please, do involve your local law enforcement in this endeavor)!

Note:

You may find you have to partially remove the front bumper in order to remove the AirTag mount from the board, by pushing up on it from underneath. If you have tiny little fingers or access to a small child (legal—LEGAL—access; don't be stealing people's children!), this may not be necessary, but in my experience, this was the only way to get the mount back out of the board when it comes time to swap the AirTag battery.

Acknowledgement:

A special thank you to Gustav for providing the CAD model of an AirTag, which I used to aid me in the creation of this design. Thank you!