This modified PiFinder has a very similar assembly to the regular v3.0 PiFinder, the main difference being the adjustments to the faceplate and the substitution of spacers in place of the brass standoffs. Many of the parts from BrickBots' hardware kit are reused where possible. Follow the v2.5 upgrade guide for more details about assembling the camera module.
Printing Guide:
I designed my parts to be fully printable without supports. There is a reference slicer plate for part orientation in the main gallery above. I used PETG with 3 walls, 20% rectilinear infill, 4 top/bottom layers, and 0.2mm layer height. The camera_holddown.stl file will need supports from your slicer.
For this mod, the Pi hat, shroud, faceplate, and bezel components are stacked in a different order than the v3 build, the brass standoffs are swapped out for printed plastic spacers, and the new Pi cam module is attached directly to the side of the PiFinder shroud. This mod is compatible with both the V1 and V2 DIY Pi hats
DIY PiFinder screws and heat sets:
M2.5x8mm Philips head screws
M2.5x12mm Philips head screws
M2.5x3x4mm heat set inserts
To perform this mod, you will need the following additional components:
3x M2.5x40mm screws (I just picked up this bolt kit) they are cheaper here.
2x M2.5x3x4mm heat set inserts
3x 20mm printed spacers
4x 4mm printed spacers
Assembly Guide:
This isn't particularly difficult, just a little cumbersome to assemble.
Construct your v2 PiFinder Pi hat and attach your PiSugar PCB to the Pi 4B, as per the PiFinder Build Guide.
Set down the shroud_front.stl, place the Pi hat on top of the shroud, set my modified bezel on top pf the Pi hat, then stack the faceplate on top over the bezel. Stepwise images below for reference.
Once you have the four parts stacked, run the three M2.5x40mm bolts through the holes in the stacked parts, then flip the assembly over, as shown below.
Slide the three 20mm spacers over the three 40mm screws.
On the fourth Pi mounting hole (the one that doesn't get a 20mm spacer), use an M2.5x8mm screw through the Pi and the PiSugar PCB, then screw the Pi/PiSugar into the heat set insert in the pi_mount.stl with a 4mm spacer between the pi_mount.stl and the PiSugar PCB, as seen below.
I digress…
When you have decided how you want to run your ribbon cable, slide the Pi/PiSugar/pi_mount.stl over the 40mm screws and carefully ensure that the DIY Pi hat is fully plugged into the Pi GPIO pins. Twist the 40mm screws into the PiSugar PCB just enough to engage the screws with the threads in the PCB.
Slip the three remaining 4mm spacers between the PiSugar and the pi_mount.stl and finish driving the screws through the PCB, the 4mm spacers, and into the heat sets in the pi_mount.
Once all that is locked down, the annoying part is over (assuming you routed your wires and cables the right way). Slide the bottom.stl over the mounting holes once you attach your chosen mounting option and screw it down per the PiFinder Build Guide.
Take this opportunity to attach your PiSugar battery to its PCB. Slip the ribbon cable through the slot in the shroud_back.stl, then close up the case.
Hold the unit shut using three M2.5x8mm screws through my v2.5 forward camera mount.stl part.
Add two heat sets to v2.5 forward camera mount.stl, attach the ribbon cable to the camera, and then use two M2.5x12mm screws to attach the camera module to the PiFinder. Put three M2.5x8mm screws into the opposite end of the PiFinder case to hold everything together really well.
Once you've attached the camera with those two screws, you're done! If you take this route with your PiFinder, post a make and/or write about your building experience!
The author remixed this model.
Adapted to use the v2 PiFinder innards with the v3 PiFinder shell.
Utilized 3x 20mm standoff spacers and 4x 4mm standoff spacers from Mark_Alpha's post to avoid spending $12 on a nylon spacer kit from Amazon.