Over the past several days I have been working on this project to print FPLA and TPU on my AnyCubic Kobra 3 printer. I will preface this with saying that I already have done this with a different assembly, but the issue comes with the filament being left to open air in a very humid Iowa climate. that just won't do especially not wih TPU. And so I began this journey of building this entire assembly which consists of a base to hold the Sunlu Dryer I purchased and some Arms that drop onto the upper arm of the Kobra 3 and hold the idler wheel that helps guide the filament and prevent overbending, which is a problem that causes these prints to fail inside of the extruder.
The trick is maintaining that balance of enough tension and not too much stretch that strains the material to its ultimate breaking point inside of the extruder.
I have successfully attempted 2 prints, but both failed for bed adhesion issues. Going to be sorting out that issue. Trying PVP glue next.
I started with this rough concept picture.
And then I modeled the base and arms in SolidWorks 2020.
I later had to change the arms slightly to provide clearance for the print head in the highest possible position it could be in. So that's why it looks a little different in the final reveal.
Base plate printing took awhile and I had just enough matte red filament from Sunlu to do it.
I remembered to use .28 and .28 for the Support attachment gaps. That number seems to produce the best removal surfaces for my stuff. 
Also, I ran into some of my prints on one of the legs being off because of the belt tension becoming loose. I don't know what causes it (probably strain and stress and use) but the belts on the AnyCubic machines will loosen over time and you have got to check them periodically or weird things will happen.
I also ran this on a Amazon Basics Battery Backup because I cannot stand my prints failing due to small power blips. make sure to get one with 1000VC capacity as that tends to be the solution.
So with the base printed I moved on to printing the arms.
Then I set the assembly up and took a tape measurement from the bottom of the dryer mount base to the table top surface and began designing threaded tubes that would attach to the threaded holes I built into the red mounting base.
The legs ended up needing to bed around to clear the build plate when it was moved back to its far back position and to clear the moving cord as well. I have this printer on a worktable I bought from Amazon that has vibration dampening feet. I realize that the AnyCubic printers have vibration sensors in them to help with this, but I am still a firm believer in using a good solid worktable for your 3D printing. A lot of problems can be resolved when vibration isn't a factor anymore.
So here's the next photo that shows how the legs look: 
So as you can see this clears everything and that's the reason for the bent legs. Each leg consists of 3 pieces: a 7 inch leg, a bent leg that is about 7 inches tall, and a final stub leg that is 5 inches tall (but mine are a little wonky because the belt wasn't tensioned properly when printing them together. However it still worked out just fine).
And the final reveal:
And it just works! Shown printing Ataraxia Art FPLA Blue. Now I'm still trying to get all the bugs worked out. One thing I noticed as a potential issue is that if you ever got that print as tall as most of the machine (which if we're honest with ourselves is probably unlikely to happen, But if it did happen then its potential that the idler pulley wheel might not contain the filament as well as the filament pulls to the extreme left or right under those circumstances. But that doesn't mean this isn't a working solution for most prints it absolutely is. Especially if you're wanting to print gaskets and things like that. But TPU and FPLA have so many different applications.
I plan on releasing this file to the AnyCubic printing community for our mutual further development.
If you like this article and would like to support my efforts, my buy me a coffee link is below. I would greatly appreciate your help and would like to give back more to the community as well through my designs and builds.
I can provide links, files, and information and plan to do so. Let me know if you're interested in this project. I have a full seat of SolidWorks 2020 and can help you with modifying for your own printer and system. Greatly appreciate everyone out there and I hope we can build something amazing together.
UPDATE NOV 17 2025
FPLA Settings
Nozzle temp: 220–225 °C <<< Upper range and a little higher than Atariaxia Art suggests.
Bed temp: 50–55 °C (first layer 55, rest 50) <<< Really Important
Brim – Optional if not sticking enough.
My first attempts at printing failed because I wasn't using the right settings for the FPLA. The feeding of the filament from the dryer to the extruder works all the time. I only had one failure because my tensioner was just a smidge looser and I tightened it and am not having issues there.
Ultimately I discovered that my main issue was that I needed the filament at .28 mm for the first layer with .28 for the following layers. (That's because I'm using a .4 mm nozzle and not a .6 mm like is recommended so you do whatever it is that works for you.) Bed temp is critical if your 60 C you're too hot and if you're 40 C you're too cold. that sweet spot is about 50 - 55 C according to Grok and I got my extruder set at 220 C now. I'll try and update as I get time. Thanks everyone!
You can get the files for this project including the SolidWorks 2020 assembly file here: Sunlu Dryer Mount for Printing TPU & FPLA on AnyCubic Kobra 3
Donations Appreciated: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/deskmouse
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