Can this be printed in the mono m5s, or is the print size not the full build plate, i just got the m5s today (prevously had an elfin2) so still getting used to the larger size.
I just tested this and surprisingly enough, it worked. I hate putting those flex plates on the one that comes with the printer so printing one is a good idea. :)
Love these things. Use Bambu's 95A TPU They pair perfect with the https://www.printables.com/model/468959-bambulab-p1p-anti-vibration-feet-adapter/comments.
Very good print and they made the difference to increase the stability of the printer. Paired them with "anti-vibration feet adapter" by @bookledge
I choose to print them with PLA and 10% gyroid infill.
Thank you for sharing this with us.
I printed this in 1 color to get the print time down to 11hrs. I then filled in the details using acrylic pens. Not perfect, but pretty cool. Great model! Thank you!
Hatchbox Black and Bambu Orange. Both PLA.
Pretty neat! Never thought to use magnets for the carabiner clasp. I would love another hole to add a key ring to for a future model. (edited)
Finally, some outside of the box design work for a "cable chain". Conceptually well done!
Questions:
1. What filament do you suggest, I assume PLA to be too brittle, probably PETG or PCTG.
2. Have you tested this to survive high speed printing for any length of time (e.g. Sport or Ludicrous modes) on prints that use most of the build surface?
I want to say upfront that this is one an important project that I want to help with and I think more people need to support--anything we can do to reduce mass helps.
This design needs a LOT of work; the mass has been reduced but with ASA (which is already more flexible than many filaments) it is so difficult to bend or extend to 3 out of the 4 corners of the print bed that I'm concerned quality will be affected. Chains, although heavy, do not skew the hotend in one direction or another.
Based on those concerns, I remade the ribbon with a 1 wall loop, 3% triangular infill, 17 bottom shell layers, and 10 top layers to maximize flexibility. It is necessary to use standard supports and a 3mm brim, plus preheat the chamber and move the print away from the door or watch the whole thing jump off the build plate. The reason for the 17/10 shell layers is to ensure that the cable and PTFE guides are fully supported.
This lightweight version cut the stiffness in half and dropped mass from 10.62g to 7.19g. Testing tomorrow will show whether print quality has suffered, especially on the extreme edges of the bed. Durability testing will take longer.
I highly recommend that you redesign this ribbon to be more flexible without going to the extremes that I went. Also, please put chamfers on the supports for the cable and PTFE tube--they are super weak. You should avoid having 90 degree angles. Finally, for anyone reading this, after you remove the supports on the ribbon, you should run a M4 bolt through the holes to round them out and ensure that the ribbon can rotate without sticking or binding. (edited)