Nice proyect, maybe I'll try
@By_Antwaan_2298218 Thank you! I'd love to see your result if you end up making it.
This looks awesome!!
I have one question since I'm planning to game on this. How much of the input delay is for the Arduino board?
@PuTaTuo_89764 Hey! Thanks!
Actually, as far as I can tell there is pretty much no input lag, at least not any noticeable input lag that I can feel. I'm sure it's a few milliseconds if you actually measure but nothing that's noticeable to a regular human.
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Would love to print, but unfortunately build plate is too small :(
@CrisPrintsIt_907333 I’m sorry. I’m trying to make projects accessible to the smaller build plates when it works with the design features but in this case a split would have a big impact to the aesthetic of the front :/
With that said, maybe I’ll make a «tiny» version if this design becomes very popular! (edited)
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I also just posted this on the YouTube video but do you think it would be possible to modify the case for APU builds? Your other deign is also great for that but only having an A1-mini I can't print that one. Seems like the fans would have to be either removed or you would have to install 3 or 4 tiny fans.
Either way I purchased this as I will deff be using it for other builds.
@MattO_270888 Hi Matt! I probably won't make exactly this one into a APU version, but I'm aiming to do more APU builds in 2025! I'll try my best to keep it within 180mm if possible.
The case printed without any headache. My only issue with the build was that the panels bulge if the insides aren't packed tightly. That aside, it's a great option for a 3d printed SFF case.
@notjudd_1248449 Hey Jude! Thank you so much for sharing your build, and I love your little modification there for the controller! Looks great!
The downside of split side panels is that they tend to bend a bit more than the one-piece panels as the joint creates a weak point.
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This was a fun project to print and assemble and looks amazing. The printing went easy and everything slid together with minimal fuss. I used the 0.1 tolerance connectors which needed a bit of sanding to fit but ensured a tight and secure fit. The only issue in assembly was the screw holding the side panel that is hidden by the PSU. I recommend attaching all the mesh panels to the side panel before attaching the brackets to hold them together.
I was able to throw some massive hardware into this case with a full size ATX motherboard, 2 slot GPU, massive PSU and a 2 fan CPU cooler that is 154.9mm tall. I did loose access to the usb headers on the MB but I still managed to fit everything that I wanted!
@Nashlake That’s awesome! Thank you so mu h for sharing your build and the 5-star rating!
I really like the color combo and it seems like you’ve nailed the print settings, your result seems to have come out super clean!
Hello! I'd like to be able to use a noctua u14s which is about 165 mm tall. Is there any way you could make a version where the edges of the side panels where the panel touches the rest is the case are taller by 5 mm so that there is a larger space between them?
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Love the design, and the print. I learned a few things with the prusa slicer to only do walls on the first 5mm of print, so that the tops got the full external 3 layers for a bit additional strength. Not sure it is needed but saw another model that had it and had to see how it was done. Printed two. One with red and white for the front the other in blue and grey for the front. The drive bays, and parts all out of black. The board support 3 nvme and 64 gb, with 8 sata connections. Allows for most of the drive bays if needed. CPU is a i5 so it can do video. Thank you for the design and video to make this possible. I had all the parts print in about 7 days of solid printing, had to do 8 external layers to join some of the back parts a bit more solid. I'm guessing that added to a number of the additional hours of printing.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your build and for the 5-star rating! 😊
This is an absolutely fantastic model for a DIY NAS! I printed it on a Qidi Q1 Pro using a 0.4 mm nozzle and ANYCUBIC PETG filament (1.75 mm in gray and black) with a 15% infill pattern. The design is precise, and the assembly is straightforward. I also customized it slightly by adding a dust mesh filter along all edges, secured with 1 mm double-sided tape, for extra protection. The result is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. I highly recommend this model to anyone building a NAS! (edited)
Hi! Thank you so much for sharing your make and for the 5-star rating! I’m very happy to hear it worked out well for you 😊
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Noice!
Made with 120mm fan to cool four drives.
Have no right length mobo stands so built without i/o shield. And 12mm button is on the way yet. (edited)
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@makerunit_735717 they are longer for 2 mm. I'll replace them soon also with cpu cooler. I don't like stock amd cooler. (edited)
@3dprint_user_1832725 Ah, I see! 😊
This case is fantastic! The minute I saw the video on YouTube, I started collecting parts to build a new NAS inside it.
Everything fit together well. I love how easily everything printed and came together to build the case. I really appreciate how makerunit's flat-pack design philosophy saves so much printing time.
This is among my favorite 3D-printing projects, certainly my favorite one from the recent past!
Nice work!
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@Chris_60327 You're on the right path, I think!
Everything should work out fine as long as you're double-checking assumptions (which you've already done) and sort out what your requirements are (which you've also already done)
Personally with what you've described, I'd think either the N6005 or N100 CPUs would both be up to the tasks you've listed. An N300/N305 might give you a bit more headroom, but I don't think you necessarily will need it.
@briancmoses and therein lies the crux- it’s so easy to look at headroom you have and fill it! And that’s fun- but it’s also so easy to blow a budget on features you don’t need or ever use. Like I said- I’m brand new to homelab / nas scene so I do want headroom to experiment- but ultimately I just “need” it to do what I’ve listed before. I haven’t even came across the n6005 yet so I’ll take a look. These integrated boards seem so high value. Ordinary mini it’s boards on their own out price the integrated ones. Haha. Thanks for the help! (edited)
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Here is a black and grey/silver combo for those interested. Just the 3D print so far - waiting for parts to complete. This was done on a Prusa Mini+. Overture PETG worked great but had issues with Giantarm silver PETG lifting at the corners of the printbed.
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@makerunit_735717 ah that makes sense! What length C13 power cable would you recommend if we decide to go with the C14 power socket? And I thought I saw the wiring and soldering instructions for the C14 socket somewhere, but can’t seem to find it now. Great design BTW. Awesome we can print it on 180mm printers!
@Aremgi_157354 not sure if you are using same color coding where you live but in Norway we’re using N=Blue, L=Brown, and the ground symbol= Green/Yellow. But don’t take my word for it as it MAY be different where you live based on local standards. If I were you I would just get a 1 meter cable first and then feed it along the path you prefer and cut it afterwards (I recommend leaving a little extra slack so its not too tight either) when you’ve got the right length. Mine was too short (I think mine was 50cm).
@ArnaudIglesia_648325 Great! Thank you for sharing! :)
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Worked with a few modifications really great for me.
I included two half height bottom case intake fans (removed the stock GPU fans).
I do not like the small power botton, so I installed a 16mm one. Also I already had different C14 power inlets lying around, so I modified the back panel to fit those with two brass inserts. I can share the model If you like.
The only critic from my side is the hole size for all threaded brass inserts. They are exactly 4.6mm, which is the diameter of the inserts. So they do not hold very strong.
And, as the parts are too big for mst printers, I had to ask a friend with an Prusa XL to print some parts. However I saw you already "fixed" this with you latest design.
And an option for a carrying handle would be nice, though I do not know if if would hold the weight.
Nevertheless great case design. Keep up the good work ♥
@KnoppersDE Hey! Thanks for sharing the make and the 5-star rating!
I've registered through hundreds of comments that the people seem to want cases that are printable on smaller printers so I'm hoping to be able to do keep that trend going for my upcoming designs where possible. (and where it doesn't directly affect the wanted outcome of the exterior look)
About the threaded inserts, I believe I may have used a different size insert, as mine were slightly bigger in diameter (including the gripping fins, or what they are called) but I have later come to realize the "standard" is 4.6 for M3 so I'll try to correct that for upcoming "makers" of this case, thanks for pointing it out.
Also, really smart the way you solved the fans embedded into the bottom panel, I may "steal" that idea from you in the future.
Thank you for the support! (edited)
Fantastic Case. Cannot wait to complete this build!
Printed in Anycubic PETG super easy to print on the Kobra Max Printer.
This system will use a Ryzen 9 7900 (65 watt) w/thermalright 120mm Cooler.
A Cooler Master 850W PS
Nvidia 3080 Ti Founders Edition. (edited)
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@makerunit_735717 SO sorry for the delay in my response. I am running a Ryzen 9 7900 (65w Variant) as well as a Thermalright Aqua Elite 120 cooler. It's decent and has served me well previously. I am reprinting the plate now, but I modified Cooling Plate STL to have a giant Hole where the cooler sits. I am about to hit print on it as a test.
@ShaunKrause_342094 I see. Let me know how it works out for you. Are you printing it in PETG or PLA this time?
The «Little Boy S Long Edition» (center) is coming! Most printed parts are finished.
STL files will soon be early-released to my squad members as soon as testing is done!
Same exterior as the S, just longer, but with a completely redesigned interior full of possibilities!
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Love this case! It printed nicely on the PrusaXL and is a nice little form factor.
Computer Specs:
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Gigabyte B650M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard
G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Cooler Master V750 SFX Gold Full Modular, 750W
Acer Predator Graphic Card BiFrost Intel Arc A770 2.20GHz OC
@Shaboinka43_269565 Awesome! Thank you for sharing 😊
It was quite a project but everything went together perfectly. I used ABS for the black and PLA for the white parts. Mainly because thats what I had lying around.
I even added my custom icon to the front panel. Orca Slicer makes this super easy.
I am using a mATX Motherboard with an i5 10500 and a Noctua Ghost S1 air cooler. Managed to get the full AFX powersupply, front 2.5 SSD and two top 3.5 inch HDDs in there without issue. Even had plenty space for two 120m case fans while cabelling was still easy.
In summary great case, can recommend. Though I had to watch the video quite a few times to get orientation right. Some additional pictures would have been nice. Though the parts can physically only go together the right way. So chapeau to the designer!
@MarcelRummen_1466404 Awesome to hear you had a good experience building in this case! Thank you for sharing, and for the 5-star rating! :)
I'm always trying to add some "fail-safes" to my designs where possible to avoid the possibility of mounting parts the wrong way etc, I'm glad you noticed! :D (edited)
Made a couple of changes, mainly just made it longer to fit my EVGA 3060ti. Also added a channel for an RGB led in the logo. I haven't added that yet but will in the future. Here's a pic next to my previous case, NR200
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@parallacks_864481 Thank yiu for thn upload and extra info!!
@Scout339 My long version is in the printer as we speak featuring a front mounted PSU, I will personally use a 120mm AIO liquid cooler and also supports some relatively big air coolers given the small size 😊 utilizing the full internal width for a CPU cooler.
Great idea with infills as pattern. I decided to try with triangles on the sides, hexes on the rest.
For GPU I went with Gigabyte RTX 4060, (192mm) which fits with maybe 1mm of space.
I wanted also to fan have some air moved to the GPU, so in order to move fan down I designed new front, which I think gives a more nicer look :p.
I made also mesh to maybe stop at least some dust.
To access the second M.2 slot on back of motherboard I made screwed in plate which can be changed.
Ryzen 5 5600
32GB DDR4 Kingston Fury
B550i AORUS PRO AX
Gigabyte RTX 4060 8GB
Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold (edited)
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Where can I get these files???
can you share the front panel please ,ta
Printed on a Bambu X1C in PLA White for the chasis, PLA Silk Gold for the vents, and PETG Clear for the brackets and mounts. Needed to print out a piece to pull back the cutter thing so I could print in the exclusion zone. Everything turned out great, and the only stumbling block I had was getting the riser cable to fit, had to use the furthest position on the bracket to get the card to fit in properly, guessing that was due to cable flexibility not sure.
For the AIO bracket, motherboard bracket, and mesh panels I had to split them up a little bit to get them to fit on the print bed, used dovetail joints for the brackets to make sure they were aligned but just did a straight split on the front panels.
Component list:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/jsupplee/saved/6v3RFT
Used M3 H4 threaded inserts on the motherboard tray since my standoffs must have been smaller and didnt fit, M4 H8 inserts for everything else.
Great build, thank you so much for posting it, was a lot of fun to make. (edited)
@Jow_521146 thank you so much for sharing this awesome make! I love your color combo too, looks awesome! And I’m glad to hear it all worked out well even with your smaller printbed! (edited)
I modified the files (thank you so much for the step files!!) to make it printable on smaller, more common printers (such as Ender3, Prusa Mk3/4, and Bambu X1).
I used methods I picked up from Teaching Tech around designing shadow lines in order to make the seams more pronounced (and in my opinion) intentional looking. I even added some faux lines in order to make it hard to tell which ones are the actual seams.
I printed it entirely in Galaxy Black and Grey ABS on my Bambulab, X1C, and while I am very happy with how it turned out, I learned that this design - especially with it being split, is VERY sensitive to any warping. Once I started covering my printer with a thermal blanket to get higher internal temps things were much better. If you are not confident in if you are able to to print ABS without warping I recomend printing the outer case in something else (I suspect PLA would be fine, or as done in the original video PETG).
Again many thanks to the original designer makerunit! I will post the remix for any one else who is interested, and I will provide some more details around the build nuances that I encountered there. (edited)
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@ArcherV_61590 yes, that should fit no problem. I believe mine was 302mm.
Especially if you add spacers like I did to add room for the cable there is lots of room
@GenericOddity_212996 thank you!
Im struggling between this case and the fractal tera. Really hard choice. The Tera would with perfectly to my desk. But the case i can print in pink
@Lubos3D Thank you for the feedback! :) For me these were tight, but I'm aware that the results may vary slightly from printer to printer when printing such small parts.
@M3D_191352 Awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing!
Used clear PETG, created a new back plate with the power hole moved to accommodate a thicker motherboard. Look for "Rear IO Panel Remix - 20mm Power Hole Move" remix. Great model, making a second!
Great make! Thanks for sharing 💪
fun project ,ez to build in
added standoff because of bottom solder
u keep designing cases i keep making them
@ontopathogenic awesome! I totally forgot to mention in the specs that standoffs were required. I’ll update the description asap. Thanks for the make! I’m happy that you like my designs!
Very nice box with great details and a cool opening mechanism. I decided on the color of the WZ Loadout chest.
At the same time, the mechanism is a bit annoying when you want to open the box because you have to loosen 7 buckles every time. Maybe I'll change that, 3 pieces would be enough :D
Otherwise everything was great, thank you for the model!
@ITRaidDE_573369 Oh wow I actually love that color combination, looks so great, now I wish mine was blue too :D I made the seven butterfly latches to resemble the original design this was based on, if you have played Warzone you'll know what I mean :D (edited)
Excelente. Recomiendo descargar. Lo hice para mi pareja para decorar tortas. El motor de microondas tiene muy buena fuerza para mover cosas pesadas.
@Aklug_400836 Thank you for sharing your make! Happy to hear it worked out well for you! :)
Very nice design! I adjusted the design to use a DC Gearbox motor and a Li-ion battery to have wireless rotation. The mechanical parts work perfectly and I have very nice results!
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@SelimKUTUK_2564522 They can be found on my personal 3D model page
Love this little case. I used it with a Gigabyte A520 and a Ryzen 5600G as a base to my backup system. I then added a GTX 1660 Super later. I also made a DIY power button that uses a bare switch you can salvage from most any case or purchase on Amazon. Additionally, I made a LED holder for a power LED which can also be used as a HDD LED too.
So I moved around the inner walls using 3D Builder to make room for a ATX Power Supply as I don't plan to use a Graphics Card. Love the modern look.
@Thimira Awesome! I'm glad you made it work for your needs :)
@Thimira can you provide your remix? i'm in the same situation
I really want to print this and install a small ultrawide monitor in the lid.... :D
A long print later... I have my very own 3D printed CPU case! I'm awaiting some CPU parts to assemble it.
@Nifty3DPrints_784532 Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
This design is beautiful. In addition I have determined that with a Dremel and Soldering Iron you can move the PSU brackets up so you can fit a full sized ATX PSU.
@NickSparrow_1844793 Thank you for sharing! I’m glad you like the design 😊
I would love to to see a mATX version, there are many good mobos out there now inmATX
@Scott_1383735 Noted! I'll keep this in mind! :)
Minecraft aspired with green & multicolor purple pla. Managed to squeeze in AIO the radiator is on top. The fan is inside. I just gotta print something to hide it. (edited)
Thank you for sharing your build and the 5-star rating 🙏!
I love to see people add their personal touch to the colors, looks great!
@DarkoK_3002044 I love green myself