Printed without issue using generic galaxy purple PLA, works as advertised.
@Henry_860197 Just saying, if that wasn't a brim I'd raise the z offset a little. Seems very squished
I kinda misplaced the handle because the latch is in the way, but wors perfectly fine as well, Thanks :D
Is it too far to the right of the nozzle? Vertical height is adjustable (see my pictures) and you can use longer tubes + screws if it's too far off to the right
great idea, i struggled with printing it on x1c, it come out deformed/walls bended inward.
i'm not sure about the soldering/melting part - can you tell how you did that? why not CA glue? thanks in advance!
@jumski_280223 what I did was to press the two halves together using a soldering iron, especially where the seam between was. In my case it melted the edge together and came out fine.
CA glue should work, however I have had some fail on me so I prefer to use a soldering iron (ON LOW HEAT!!)
@covertpluto3502 I haven't noticed the additional lip at first and was not sure what part you melt. All clear now, thank you!
My US based dehydrator came with a smaller power switch than the opening and a thermostat dial with a different mounting, After searching found these that should work on AliExpress.
Thermostat Temperature Switch - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805045620053.html
KCD6 Wide Edge V-shaped Button with Red Light 3 Pins -
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800883464606.html
the only holes that lined up correctly we the 3 around the coil tower.. you can enlarge the plate for the other two..
@ToXIc_411141 I think what might’ve happened is that the same design gets rebranded over and over again but some parts might get switched out because of supply chain complications every now and then, and yes I’ll check the holes since at least for my model all the holes lined up
Thanks!
To make it work I had to redesign the thermostat holder and switch hole, but now it work great. (edited)
Thanks for this design.
It's much simpler and cheaper than hydra from zerog. (Most expensive part is an octopus control board to support additional steppers).
It still has some challenges, but they can be overcome easily.
Some notes:
I modded my sovol sv05:
- for some reason the steppers located slightly different (closer to back I assume), so spacer were not needed. And actually I install them not too precisely
- still episodic (not every print) manual tramming is needed. This design cannot compensate too much bed tilt. Once I install everything I rotated steppers into position there not too much tilt of lower plate (to avoid excessive z-axis friction). And then I did screw_tilt_calculte to level bed.
Once it's done you can just do home and z_tilt (without excessive manual tramming). I easily achieved ~0.025 range after that.After all of that I've got pretty good first layer without manual adjustment.
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@AlexeyVlasov_660317 also if your stock electronics case was similar to an ender 5/pro try using this https://www.printables.com/model/127714-ender-5-rear-mount-electronics-power-bracket
@covertpluto3502 I actually don't care too much on this. I perform z-tilt and bed meshing before every print. Thanks for suggestion btw.
Can you share STEP or remix to CR Touch? Thanks!
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@Tony_409529 I've made one and uploaded, but need a shell replacement, check it in my profile... (edited)
@DrEaD_230657 oh damn nice. I'll have a look at that 👍
Could you post the STEP files for the X carriage with the BLTouch, I need to modify the carriage
Looks interesting! I was getting ready to do a budget-friendly dual z upgrade for my old 5 Pro that I installed a Mercury 1.1 CoreXY kit on because the Hydra upgrade, while nice, is expensive and hard to source - this looks like it may be the better way to go.
Any update on V2? I will wait if you have a new design coming.
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@covertpluto3502 Thanks for all the updates, really looking forward to V2. For V1, FYI you forgot to include the mounting plate for the arms. I found what looks to be it on your Thingiverse entry. Thought you'd want to know.
@Ixian_67258 ahh yes I forgot that thanks for reminding me. I just did a revision of v1 and now it has it all
Hi! how are how?
just a question: did you use the standard board to connect the three motors (doing a parallel connection? or did you to change the board?
regards!
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@AriX yeah, just plug two control boards into the same raspberry pi via usb and configure it to be a “secondary mcu”, there’s an example config for a Voron Multi-MCU on their github
@covertpluto3502 oh! That sounds too good. Thanks for the tip! I have some boards to try it.
