This is exactly the kind of star I was looking for. Printed using supports, but it is not particularly troublesome, because the surface of the star's arms has a very small contact area with the support, it came out great. Thanks a lot!

This is exactly the kind of star I was looking for. Printed using supports, but it is not particularly troublesome, because the surface of the star's arms has a very small contact area with the support, it came out great. Thanks a lot!
@Bruce_235625 - Thank you very much.
Yes, the small contact surface also caused me problems when I tried to make the star with silk filament. Since silk is much more brittle, it broke just before the point and the base body "grew together". Perhaps one could play around a bit with the support settings in the slicer.
Hi, I have not been able to carry out the process you indicate, what I am asking for are the finished STLs, already processed. Thank you.
@SaladinYiyoc_1912556 - There are no finished STLs that include the feature "no wall lines". You have to do the setup in the slicer as described to generate the G-code that does not contain wall lines in the desired area.
I could provide G-code, but that is printer and filament specific, so it won't be of any use to you since you probably have a different printer.
Hi, Vielen Dank für diesen tollen Baum, was ich festgestellt habe, nicht alle Drucker unterstützen dieses verfahren im OrcaSlicer, bei mir gingen der FLSUN V400 oder Elegoo N4Plus (Bambu P1S oder FLSUN T1 gehen nicht über diesen Weg).
@NotGuilty84_1446924 - Danke für die Sterne.
Das ist interessant. Mit meinen Druckern Ender 3/Cura und Neptune 4Pro/Orca gab es keine Probleme. Hab zwar keinen Bambu, werde das aber mal in Orca testen und ggf. einen Hinweis in der Beschreibung ergänzen.
@NotGuilty84_1446924 - Ich konnte den Bambu P1S nicht einrichten (Orca sagt mir, dass er den Drucker nicht findet) und auch der FLSUN T1 ließ sich nicht richtig einrichten. Habe beim T1 aber gesehen, dass man offenbar auch die "Top Shell Layers" auf 0 setzen muss, beim Neptune genügt es nur die Wandlinien auf 0 zu setzen. Werde das die Tage mal in der Anleitungs-PDF ergänzen.
I really liked @gerrrciu coloring so I had to copy it too. Thanks to you both.
@Tomcat54 Everything is great when you put it together once, put it on the table and nobody touches it. It's worse when kids like to take it apart and put it together. I've had to glue it twice already 😁
@gerrrciu - First of all, I have to say that such decorative objects are not intended as children's toys. There are incalculable risks, such as sharp edges and small parts that children can swallow. No designer can accept liability for nothing happening.
Anyway, I have now at least changed the drawing for the connecting piece, increased the minimum wall thickness from 1 mm to 1.6 mm (four wall lines) and increased the barrel radius from 12 mm to 30 mm just for you.
But since it is a lot of work to create the STLs for the 15 discs and upload and sort them on Printables, I can not do that for the time being. But if there is another update, these changes will be included.
Good idea, I haven’t tested yet if it improves drying but it can only be better than wedging the lid open. It‘s a very simple/quick mod and fits perfectly.
Was really not in the mood of drawing this thing due to the hole placement and other things that are hard to measure. luckily i didnt have to thnx to this model! thnx dude!
Great part, M10 thread fits great. Will glue with superglue like another commenter said.
So einfach kann es sein, aber wegen der Möglichkeit die ich durch diesen Deckel erhalte werde ich öfters Skyr essen. Vielen Dank fürs teilen. Finde ich mega.