Just work like a charm!
Now I have no more excuses for not cleaning the nozzle...
Thank for the design!

Just work like a charm!
Now I have no more excuses for not cleaning the nozzle...
Thank for the design!
10/10 would print again
pictures: Fiberlogy R PLA Anthracite, 0.20, 15% gyroid infill, 4 perimeters, fuzzy: outer, 0.1, 0.4, random one yellow dot balls from sports store since they didnt have anything else (edited)
@TPdesignwerkstatt i wonder if 2 dot balls are required for this to work? because my research says one blue dot should be the best (edited)
@WiktorGonzew_3308619 Hey, depends on what do you want to achieve. Two dot are the softest one so the wobbling of the printer will be partly absorbed and help to reduce the movement of the shelf/table/etc. If you place your printer on a big concrete plate under your printer I would recommend to go for most stiff means blue dot so the stone can be the shock absorber. I am running with all of my printer since 6 years very successful with two yellow dots. Never had any significant improvement with placing stones unter my printers. And nothing is shaking while printing. Hope that helps and happy printing.
Two down and two to go but these will look nice on the Core One. And I'm officially a fan of fuzzy skin! At least for parts like this. Printed in PETG with 0.2mm layer height, 25% Gyroid infill, 4 perimeters and fuzzy skin parameters of 0.1mm skin thickness and 4.mm skin point distance. Gives a nice pebble finish and hides all the VFA lines.
Fuzzy skin looks awesome. Great idea thanks for sharing
I did actually already remove them -but only because I ended up using an even higher set of feet - so i dont have an in use photo.
but they printed perfectly and worked great.
Great design. It is a little difficult to take the steam deck apart. Once you get it apart, assembly in the new case is fairly easy. I taped the touch sensor to the inside of the cover.
Wish we could light it up to show the hours and filament use! I had 900+ days and over 31 miles of filament use on my MK3s before I upgraded it.
i thougt you only added some holes to the Base-A and Base-B plates but you downsized the side that it is not compatable with Base-C and Base-D from Prusas original. Why did you changed it that way? (edited)
@GG__2819001 Hey let me check. I used the step file from them, hope I didn't screw the stl export....
@TPdesignwerkstatt Thanks for the fast reply. I updated the post with a photo. I hope you see the difference.
While printing thought why use the v-profile and not screw the spoolholder directly to the plate?