It looks like the lid needs supports on a couple overhangs. Any issues with those? It would have to be supported directly on the piece. Also, what is the left side of the lid used for? (edited)
@JonDotG_731062 So I use the left side of the lid to hold my phone usually(with a spell list app and wiki pages for my class lol), or if not that, I can put some of the pens and stuff in there that I usually store on the bottom under the roller side when the box is closed.
As for supports on the lid, I do have to put some under that lip on the left side, and it usually prints fairly well for me with some basic supports there. I just set it to enforce supports on that whole lip. After printing I usually just have to pull the supports out and they separate fairly well, for me they usually just come out in one piece. My settings in PrusaSlicer are:
Snug supports
.1 top contact Z distance
2.5mm pattern spacing
3 top interface layers
.1mm interface pattern spacing
65% xy separation between object and support
The rest are set to default. I just set that surface under that lip on the left side to enforced supports for its whole surface area facing down. You could probably get away with a few thinner support points if you wanted, but I generally just let it support that whole lip and I pull the supports out after its done. Or you could try to let your printer bridge it, but your success there is gonna vary greatly on how dialed in your settings are, its a long bridge. I just play it safe usually since its a long print and I don't want to risk it causing issues.
Though I will point out that you might need different settings, the supports were a lot easier to remove for me with the glossy filament in the examples, I haven't tried with matte as of yet, but from other things I've made with other filaments it tends to stick together more.
As for the hole for the hinge, it didn't need supports for me, though you could add a thin strip of support if you wanted. I'd just be careful to make sure its very thin or you'll do what I did the first time I tried to print the lid piece, which is support the hole for the hinge, then find it impossible to get the supports out of the hole after >.<
I attached a pic of the supports that I use, along with an example of a really thin one run down the length of the hole for the hinge. I also have a text file in the download with instructions on what I did for supports for each piece, in case you have any other concerns about the files.
@Selinth_911497 Thank you! I finished my print, and like a dummy didn't see the lip on the left side, so I didn't add any supports. It came out ok. It's not really visible, so I probably won't reprint just yet. The whole thing came out perfectly though. Thank you for this design!
This came out perfectly! With felt pads the roller doesn’t make a ton of noise. It can be hard to pick the dice out of the storage tray sometimes though. Be sure to use supports on the left side lip of the lid. I didn’t use supports and it came out a little rough. See the comments for the designer’s recommended settings.
it would be great V4 if you could mod it to allow to "stick" on/off the back of the Win Max 2 using thin magnets... of course I'd understand that's we'd have to "glue" some thin magnets on the chassis of the win max 2, but I wouldn't mind.... these would make it easy to "stick" on/off the whole grip.
I would actually put a tape on the chassis of the Win Max 2 and glue the magnets on that tape, not to damage the win max directly.. and use something like these magnets...
@CarlosAlberto_12037 That's a cool idea, I've not made something with cutouts for magnets before but I'll check it out for future versions :)
@Selinth_911497 I'd really appreciate it as I don't have the skills to do it myself... but these magnets are qute strong and I'm sure they'll hold just fine and would allow easy snap on/off.. this should take this design to a new level.... thanks!
Thanks for the grip design. It's does make this so much more comfortable to hold.
However, it does have a flaw of jamming against the R2/L2 trigger buttons a bit when trying to slide it in and out. Forcing it in caused some minor scratches to the trigger.
I would strongly suggest have the grips slide in from the bottom instead of top. Not only will this prevent jamming it'll also better support the laptop from the bottom when holding it vertically.
As of now, I can't really use it as intended. The only way to remove the grips for me is to pop the whole thing off from the slide, unless I wanted more scratches to the tigger buttons. (edited)
@JohnLittle_363837 Oh damn, I never realized. I checked mine and it does seem to have some contact. It probably helps that I basically just leave the grips on permenantly on mine. My printer is currently not cooperating with me, but once its up and running again I'll see if I can redesign this to some extent.
@Selinth_911497 This is simply a problem you've inherited from Tåkefyrsten's design. To be fair, it's is a very minor scratch. Certainly one that many can live with especially if you don't remove it much or at all.
I'm more interested in detachable solutions for travel purposes. Been looking at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6219970/files The grip is a bit on the bulky side, but seems easier to take on/off. Just not sure how easy it is to print well.
Looks awesome! I’m printing it right now. I’ll post to make when I’m done.
Love it! I like your model because it sits upright with a flat bottom. It prints very well. My game slid into it very easily. I put a few layers of blue painters tape on the inside so that when it slides in, it stays in.